^ No manual racks in the USA if i recall... And I personally want to maintain power steering in the vehicle, Legend doesn't care if he loses his.
^ No manual racks in the USA if i recall... And I personally want to maintain power steering in the vehicle, Legend doesn't care if he loses his.
My Project thread https://www.3geez.com/forum/project-c...dan-build.html
My Flickr: http://www.flickr.com/photos/jdmca5/
For real, I hate wiring lol. I can't believe the pumps have different connections on them. Most Honda P/S use the same fitting, its strange.
I tried to aquire a manual rack years ago, but they are to far and few. I believe you have to replace the sub frame as well. Thats means I would have to pay to have the sub frame, and rack sent to the USA. Just not feasible, I just filled the rack with P/S fluid, then ran all the lines together lol. Never had a problem on the old rack.
lx-incredible also has a post about making a manual rack for the accord.
dead white and blue
Well looks like rywire gonna need the harness for about 3 weeks as soon as I get it to them. So probably looking at about a month before I can get any progress with the swap. Ill update you guys if anything good happens!
The race is on! ha!
Good luck legend~!
My Project thread https://www.3geez.com/forum/project-c...dan-build.html
My Flickr: http://www.flickr.com/photos/jdmca5/
Well look at that, your doing it again. Well i can help you out with the P/S issues. your threads on brakes helped me out with my setup. So here is a bit back at you, and i hope this helps.
Man it''s funny That we would be doing B swaps at the same time.
So anyway...
materials:
B series P/S pump and mounting hardware.
1990 Aucra LS/rs/gs (doesnt matter) pressure Power steering line.
1: remove A series power steering pump and pressure line. Its a B#$^& in the car but it can be removed without dropping the rear subframe and with the B series engine in the car.
2: mount the B series pump on the engine
3: Feed the acura power steering line like so in the pictures below.
Note: I got the acura stock mount to work by moving the mount bracket up the pressure line a few inches. worked perfect
4: This next step is going to take a little patience. Be sure to have your line ran and in position mounted and bolted to the pump before proceding.
climb under the car with a pair of plyers, and good old muscle and re bend the line to position the 14x1.5 flare fitting nut in the correct orientation. This is a bad picture But i ran out to the car and took it just to give you this writeup. If you want more detail let me know the car practically lives on jack stands when not at the track.
The nut is circled in red.
5: Aquire a 1ft piece of 1/2 inch rubber line. connect your P/S reservior to your P/S pump. Fill with fluid and enjoy your P/S
Note: Your acura line has a P/S pressure sensor built into it. Optionally you can wire that to the ECU. What this will do is when your idling and turn the wheel the ECU will bump the Idle RPM up to compensate the P/S pump power draw.
I hope this helps you out.
Honestly I think you should do the wiring yourself. I can walk you through it step by step. EASY CHEASY my friend!!
OH and P/S (pun intended) The Wilwood Brakes Are FUC*^&&*% AWESOME!! especially with this seasons B16 upgrade.
88 - Hatch - FF class track car Major Upgrades!
87 - Hatch - DD
88 rx7 turbo II - FR class track car - blown engine
86 rx7 NA - Under Construction
90 240 hatch - SOLD
Sick Ride!! Man I Can't Wait To Start Mine
Much appreciated, sadly enough tho I actually crimped off one of the P/S lines because it was right on the mount location . That write up deserves it's own thread, perfect for anybody thats going to be purchasing the Innovative mounts, and wants to maintain P/S. As for the wiring, I would love to save the time and money to make the harness myself. I am pretty savvy when it comes to electronics, but a custom harness seems out of my realm. If you really think you could help me with it, I would be stoked, I really want this thing running! Glad to hear your brakes are working out well, cause i'm very jealous of them LOL. Hit me up about the wiring lets see what we can figure out .
Thanks, and good luck young Grasshopper!
Last edited by Legend_master; 06-06-2010 at 06:00 PM.
Even if you crimped the line you should be able to replace it and get power steering back.
Yeah we can start on the wiring. I need a little information before we start. Since its a ls/vtec i am goign to assume that you are goign to be using a obd1 P72 or equivilant ecu running some type of tuning software for the engine.
also what type of fuel injectors are you goign to run? low or high impedance. this matters alot! it means weather or not the wire diagram i make out for you, uses the stock resistor box or not. Also what obd version is your distributor?
as for hooking the obd 1 ecu to the obd o connectors. After we are done you will be able to buy any civic/crx obd0-obd1 conversion harness or we can build that as well.
note: this could be as expensie as 100$ or so to build. really depends on what the junkyard prices the engine connectors out for.
materials/parts needed:
parts:
- engine side plugs with a little wire for pigtails. (easiest thing to do is pull a engine harness for the same obd version that matches your engine. optionally we can modify the A20 harness to be almost plug and play.
- another set of A,B,C ECU male plugs with pigtails from any 88 - 91 honda ( they plug into the ecu. We will need these as you will have to add 5 wires in the body harness to accomodate the vtec solonoid, extra pickup in the distributor, second O2 sensor and the knock sensor which you may not have this, as you are an LS block.)
materials:
- 8ft of 3/16 heat shrink tubing
- heat gun or a cig lighter for the heat chrink.
- 10 ft of 16guage shielded wire
- assortment of 16 guage wire. A mini wire store house would be pretty good, multiple colors and pretty cheap http://www.harborfreight.com/400-ft-...ouse-3384.html
- soldering iron and a spool of solder. For the love of god get atleast a 45 watt iron, otherswise the rather bigger wires will be a pain to solder.
- good set of dikes
- good set of wire strippers
- a few paperclips for re pinning connectors.
- wire loom. various sizes ( there are many types of loom out there. go with whatever you like. there are 3 main types that I consitanly see and use. split loom its cheap easy to work with but plan on buying a minimal of 4 rolls of electrical tape. spiral loom', way more dificult. The last is the most expensive and most time consuming a synthetic mesh which gets heat shrinked on the ends. extremely durable, can see wires in the loom, and takes a very well thought out plan of making the wireing loom. the last bit even tests my patience.
i can start the step by step wire harness piece as soon as you get me some info on the questions I asked earlier.
Honestly its not that hard and well within your capabilities. here are a few pics from my wiring loom this past weekend. to give you an idea the work involved. Again for the full piece I will make it in a writeup type form and put this information at the top for a sticky.
5 wires added to body harness.
engine harness complete before loom
Done
88 - Hatch - FF class track car Major Upgrades!
87 - Hatch - DD
88 rx7 turbo II - FR class track car - blown engine
86 rx7 NA - Under Construction
90 240 hatch - SOLD
yeah wiring is not as hard as it looks, i had to make a custom harness for my civic and it was pretty damn easy, not to mention i did a full wire tuck (even relocated the fuse box to behind the dash) and im CAH
1988 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe 123k miles.
1988 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe 123k miles.
Absolutely amazing, that harness looks great. So here is what I have, everything on the LS/vtec is OBD-1 ECU, Distributor, Fuel Injectors. I have the low resistance injectors as well (no resistor box). I have an 86 Accord LX-i engine harness that has been modified to fit all the connections for the OBD-1 LS/vtec. I have a sub harness that connects the OBD1 GSR ecu to the 86 accord sub harness under the seat. It has an extention that comes out of it and runs to the engine harness to make up for all the wires that are needed for the OBD1, and Vtec, but not available on the accord chassis. I wish I could just use this harness, but there are big differences between the 88 and the 86 when it comes to the engine harness. Anything else you might need just let me know!
I had the 86 fully tucked, but this 88 gonna be a little different so no tucking for me lol. CAH that tuck looks good, even tho its not on a 3gee .
PS:
Im not running a knock sensor, and I am only using 1 O2 sensor
PPS:
If were gonna show our wire tuck shots
Last edited by Legend_master; 06-08-2010 at 11:25 AM.
^ all that thing needs is some simple green and some engine bright and it'd be so sick, i know it's no longer in existence really but just saying for the rebirth keep those in mind
dead white and blue
1988 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe 123k miles.
where did it all go?
[/QUOTE]
i bet if i stood on my radiator support it will all bend :O
It was my test to see what an engine truly needed to run. The only problem was when a wire went bad, tracking that problem down takes forever!
If I ever do another tuck on a 3Gee, its gonna be with the stock motor. I haven't fully seen that yet, there was a couple close ones but no cigar yet!
[/QUOTE]
Mostly the fenders, and the dash board. There was nothing having to do with the A/C in that car!
The first time I posted that picture somebody said this, I guess im just light as a feather lol !If I stood on my radiator support I would need a new radiator support, new radiator, hoses, fans, and possibly bumper.
Anyways, glad you're not giving up on the car. I'll be expecting some progress pics in the near future.
Dang my email notification must not be working or my spam filter isnt working correctly. I skimmed your post real quick. I believe that you have enough to get us close to the finish line. let me read it more carefully after work.
Oh and since no one has noticed yet, I spy a Turboz............
The B16 was just a middle of the street motor swap. Your going to make me hurry up and finish my ERL sleved 2.0L LS/VTEC build so we can have 2 B series bosted accords on here at the same time.
88 - Hatch - FF class track car Major Upgrades!
87 - Hatch - DD
88 rx7 turbo II - FR class track car - blown engine
86 rx7 NA - Under Construction
90 240 hatch - SOLD
The 88 has more wires in the harness connectors which allows you to do some pretty neat things. I will show you how to add the wires to the body harness. not run in parallel but actually add them to the harness. I will take some more detailed pics and write up what i can for you tonight.
PS: I was thinking Our combined knowledge we should make a complete informational thread on how to put these engines in the car.
88 - Hatch - FF class track car Major Upgrades!
87 - Hatch - DD
88 rx7 turbo II - FR class track car - blown engine
86 rx7 NA - Under Construction
90 240 hatch - SOLD
I was having the same problem when you posted the last time. No notification, must be a blurp in the system. I still have the turbo setup sitting in my garage, but thats gonna have to be a far future mod I can't afford now . Your second engine sounds much nicer then the TQ-less wonder b16 lol. Im just glad you went with the Hatch model, cause as everybody knows its the best 3gee .
Also on the 88 model the connections where the engine harness plugs into the chassis has two male connections, and the 86 has 1 male, 1 female. Dude I am excited, if my harness turns out half as nice as yours then ill be perfectly fine with that! As for a thread, I agree. I never really made one cause the mounts were never available, but now they are!
I have owned 4 Hatches and 7 3gen accords all together. Sold some to friends. wrecked one, one was parts and restored an SEI then sold it
I still have 2 hatches the race car and my daily. And yes. I stayed with the hatch specifically for its weight characterstics and I love a hatch. Every car I have ever owned has one.
Your wire harness will turn out perfect I gurantee it!
88 - Hatch - FF class track car Major Upgrades!
87 - Hatch - DD
88 rx7 turbo II - FR class track car - blown engine
86 rx7 NA - Under Construction
90 240 hatch - SOLD
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