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Thread: Quick question

  1. #1
    LXi User CzEcHy's Avatar
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    Quick question

    Alright well since my paint is turning to poop (my pictures in my thread don't show you)

    https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=69723



    Anyway, I want to attempt the 50$ paint job thing since it'll look better than what I have..

    My only problem since I'm an idiot is how to sand it..


    I have original factory paint w/ small remnants of clear coat possibly.

    What is the best way to completely sand it away down to the metal so I can do the painting?


    Need details please, grit of sandpaper, any sander I may need, ANY techniques, etc..

    I'm just doing the metal, the bumpers are in great condition, and I'm going to match the color to what I have now (I have Misty Beige but Seatle Silver matches the same), so door jambs and etc won't need done.)



  2. #2

    2oodoor's Avatar
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    Re: Quick question

    I wrote up a little here a long time ago, not really a write up per say though.
    here is a good link...http://www.carcraft.com/howto/116_06...eparation.html

    ok I recommend first investing in a random orbital sander, there are some nice electric "DA" sanders you can get at home depot. I have a Rigid with a dust catcher that I also can hook up a shop vac too. You don't really have to strip all the paiint off if you can just get the cracked paint and clear coat off.
    If you try to use an air DA you will need a very strong two stage air compressor. The electric random orbital (round discs) can be had for around 60 bucks, then the cost of paper. I would start with 100 grit on the really bad places, then work up to 220, 180 grit. From what I have seen with these cars just the hood and roof need serious sanding almost to bare metal depending on how bad and what color.

    Guys, after looking up the FAQ and how too section, wow we need some work done in there.

  3. #3
    LXi User CzEcHy's Avatar
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    Re: Quick question

    Ya it's my hood, roof, and trunk..

    Wet sanding did nothing for the car, so next step is repainting.

  4. #4
    LXi User CzEcHy's Avatar
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    Re: Quick question

    think I'll use aircraft paint remover, I tested it on an old fender and it ate everything in 15 minutes and left nice clean metal.


    Much better since it'll be nice smooth factory metal w/o risking sanding wrong.

  5. #5

    Vanilla Sky's Avatar
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    Re: Quick question

    The big problem is that you're not just getting rid of paint, you're getting rid of a lot of rust protection. There's high zinc primer on most areas of these cars. This is supposed to keep the rust down a lot, and it does. These bodies aren't galvanized, just the rear quarter panels IIRC.

    If you're stripping all the way down, you need to lay a high zinc primer then a sandable primer to get a good base for paint.

    Another issue with chemical removal is that no matter how hard you try, you're going to get that stuff places you don't want it to go. The only time you should ever chemical strip a car is when you're doing a frame off restoration. Any other time you want to repaint it, you need to sand it.

    Like Roodoo already said, look into a DA sander. They're worth every cent. Just be careful not to burn through the primer all the way to the metal.

    If you were more local to me, I'd help you out with a paint job. At least the prep. I'm really good at prepping things for paint.

  6. #6
    3Geez Veteran Civic Accord Honda's Avatar
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    Re: Quick question

    yep if u send it down past the primer your car will turn to rust , just sand the clear coat down

    1988 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe 123k miles.

  7. #7
    LXi User CzEcHy's Avatar
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    Re: Quick question

    Well I had an old fender from the accident so I'm testing on that, testing all the way down to metal, over old paint, and over primer to see what works best..


    Rust-oleum theoretically should protect against rust right..? I shouldn't really need a protective barrier w/ 10 coats of Rust-oleum I'd think.


    I'm just doing the hood, roof and trunk so masking off the paint remover shouldn't be a problem, and I can remove the hood/trunk.

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