so i was messing around with my car and tried starting it without the black box hooked up electricity. car ran fine, but i'm wondering what is now not working because of this. [all vacuum lines are still connected but the two wire plugs are not]
so i was messing around with my car and tried starting it without the black box hooked up electricity. car ran fine, but i'm wondering what is now not working because of this. [all vacuum lines are still connected but the two wire plugs are not]
Pretty sure most of it is related to emissions.
Sam
1989 Accord LX: Sold with 208k-now somewhere around 230k with new owner
Current:
2014 Elantra Sport 6MT
2000 Montero Sport 4x4 (beater, trail rig)
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
The only way to tell for sure what’s not working is too check your V.I.N. against a Haynes Manual or Honda Service Manual that deciphers what exactly is in that black box and what it does.
If you provide your V.I.N., then I probably can find the box drawing from my service manuals.
and have fun, some of the emissions aren't even in the book or on the under hood sticker. like the box under the drivers side fender, you'll see a bunch of hoses going into the fender, not even listed, and I have good emissions diagrams
we don't have the resistor here in the US, and the washer tank is under the bumper area. there is an emissions box with a ton of hoses going to it under the drivers side fender. they go through the inner fender well, you can see then up near the PS reservoir. when I pull this fender again to fix the new dent in it, I will take a picture
I don't have any box under the fender so it must be a US thing.
So THAT'S what made the Blackhawks lose on Wednesday. It's all your fault.
Most of black box stuff is emissions controls, so most likely you won't notice much of anything. But if any of those things were malfunctioning and negatively impacting the car's performance, then disconnecting them could help. It's hard to really say without knowing specifically what was disconnected.
About the only thing you can say for certain is that it wouldn't pass a visual inspection that way (and probably not a tail pipe test either).
C|
Now we know who to blame for the oil flooding in the Gulf
The black box on EFI cars contains the MAP sensor. In addition, some EFI models have a purge solenoid (for the gas vapors) and a solenoid for the second intake runner.
Auto cars add an idle booster solenoid.
There is also a cold advance solenoid and the A/C idle booster solenoid. Oh, and my favorite: the EGR solenoid!
Carbed cars may have (either in the black box or elsewhere): cold advance solenoid, A/C idle boost solenoid (if A/C equipped), idle booster solenoid (for auto trans). EGR valve is different from EFI cars and actuated differently.
Only way to know is opening it and follow the tubing to figure out where each component goes. What I have said about EFI should help as a broad reference (minus the obviously EFI stuff)
Last edited by ecogabriel; 06-05-2010 at 07:02 AM.
If it ain't broke... I fix it!
im pretty sure your car is the same as mine you can check this out , you dont need most of that crap it is all emission's related you also dont need to get a weber carb in order to get rid of the vacumm , check out this thread for a how to remove it all but what is needed, MAKE SURE YOU DONT NEED EMISSION TEST it will be in the next post![]()
ps: Honda calls this item the control box.
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=11067
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