im sure its on here somewere but i cant find it. im building an engine for my coupe and was thinking about turboing it in the future so i was wondering if i could get a parts list from some of you turbo guys.
im sure its on here somewere but i cant find it. im building an engine for my coupe and was thinking about turboing it in the future so i was wondering if i could get a parts list from some of you turbo guys.
how much money you got? il sell you my engine
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
where are you located im not really wanting to pay for shipping on something that heavy
what is the min thickness for cylinder walls?
I've herd of people going 83mm.Originally Posted by gtmst3
Anything beyond 83.5mm will be getting sketchy with the head gasket sealing. The factory oversize pistons are 83mm so that's no problem.
C|
you need head studs, stock head gasket, forged pistons(diamond forged pistons are good), eagle h beam rods (b18a/b rods) new oil and water pumps(genuine honda only), new seals(genuine honda only) and a few other parts. what are your goals?
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
i dont think i need those rods i dont plan on going that high hp maby 200 horse more would be great but that would make me happy
if you are going through this much trouble, replace the rods, building a turbo engine with factory 25 year old rods is just being cheap. and as far as the oil pump if you can't get ahold of a factory, they do make a melling replacement, i would put one in anything just on their reputation and how many high dollar builds use them
if i do run a turbo i only want to run low boost no more than 10 i dont think. i want to replace all the parts but i dont want to spend 100$ a rod i dont think i need that much strength. would normal replacement pistons be good enough?
If you only want to do low boost you might as well just boost the stock engine and just work on engine management. some might argue with me, but I feel there are a plethora of these engines laying around so if something goes wrong you could find a replacement easily. I think low boost on stock/factory setups is fine
'88 LX-i Coupe --- LS/Vtec
'08 Accord EX-L 6-6 --- Daily Duty
people on here have bosted up to 8psi on stock engines...only gets you around 180whp...but yeah a tune will help
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
if he is really only looking for 200whp, then in my opinion 180whp will be just as good
'88 LX-i Coupe --- LS/Vtec
'08 Accord EX-L 6-6 --- Daily Duty
yeah i only base it on rendons set up when we went to the dyno...he only needs OBD1 swap with a tune...most of the parts for turbo are hard to get... some one here...maybe jerry can make him a log style mani.
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
well no matter what im doing a rebuild the motor has 242000. im trying to decide if i want to do a low turbo rebuilt a20 or a n/a rebuilt b20 they would be about the same in cost and power right? p.s. i would have simple mods like header and port and polished head and port matched intake mani etc. on the b20.
if your building an engine for boost, id def replace the rods. Eagles are cheap ($350 ish) have excellent rod bolts in them, and will have the right wrist pin size if you go with diamond pistons. If you stick with stock rods, youll have to replace the rod bolts and probably have the ends resized, and I would shot peen them too. For just a little more money you could go with eagles. If your not planning on going over 8psi (which is a waste, id go at least 10psi) just use a stock short block. If your compression is good, your not burning any oil etc, you should be fine with boost. My stock short block held up for a long time, at boost levels wayyy over what you want to run, and even then, the failure wasnt really boost related.
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
ok well i have a b series intake that i want to put on but i dont know where some things go and i dont see how going from a dual runner in my 89 a20a3 to a single off of a b18
this is the manifold i have
these are the things i dont know what to do with. and also the egr which i dont think i need a pic of. The IAC i can just use one for the b18 intake i would imagine. correct me if im wrong. And then again i have the question of what the benefits are. i understand that the dual stage runners (with the butterflys) on the stock intake is good is it not?
Last edited by gtmst3; 06-15-2010 at 09:13 AM.
The dual stage intake on the 88-89 LX-i manifolds were there mostly for low-end torque control. You will probably lose a good bit of low-end and gain a bit of top end with this new manifold.
I really don't understand the rest of what you typed or what you have circled in the pics.
do you think it is worth doing then? i enjoy fast acceleration is that what i would be loosing out on?
all the circled items are things that i dont know what to do with because the new manifold has no spot for them. in addition to the circled items are the egr and fuel rail.
Last edited by gtmst3; 06-15-2010 at 09:14 AM.
you need to portmatch the intake manifold to the head or you wont gain much at all. Me personally, id crimp the egr tube and hook up the egr valve and lift sensor but zip tie it up somewhere just so its there. Id use the b series fuel rail and intake air temp, and just plug off the iab lines, they are not needed for this application.
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
what are the air intake temp and iab. and why hook up the egr valve and lift sensor but zip tie it up somewhere
The intake air temp sensor goes in the port on the #1 cylinder runner. Not sure where it is on the a20 manifold but I imagine it's electrically compatible even if the plugs are different. Don't know what IAB is. The secondary runner valves maybe? Obviously you wouldn't have those on the B manifold. You want to hook up the EGR valve and lift sensor to keep the ECU happy. If you don't it will throw a code. It won't know if they aren't connected to the engine though.
I've had this same B18 manifold on my A20 for awhile now, and honestly I don't really like it. The plenum volume is huge and the throttle response is laggy compared to the Weber (carb) setup I had before that. I haven't tried a stock A20 manifold so can't make that comparison. If you want to get a B series manifold get one with a smaller plenum and shorter runners. The B18B manifold is better and doesn't have as many holes in it to plug (vac ports and stuff). The B16 manifold is the best but harder to find. Otherwise there are aftermarket B18 manifolds that can be modded to fit. Other people here will know more about those than I.
C|
ok so im thinking of not doing this then and getting my money back thank you for the info. allthough isnt there more aftermarket support for the b18 like throttle bodies and fuelrails and stuff?
Last edited by gtmst3; 06-18-2010 at 05:39 AM.
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