No I didn't plan on a wire tuck but it sounds like a great idea. I just may do that after I install the MSD and coil. Would anyone happen to have a turbo exhaust manifold, down pipe, and/or any A20 turbo components? Hit me up asap.
No I didn't plan on a wire tuck but it sounds like a great idea. I just may do that after I install the MSD and coil. Would anyone happen to have a turbo exhaust manifold, down pipe, and/or any A20 turbo components? Hit me up asap.
motor swap looks good.
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
Ever figure out what is causing this? My car has the same issue you described after I did my 5speed swap and it's driving me batshit.Originally Posted by Sickest3G
87 Lxi ~ 5spd conversion, full exhaust, still slow
90 Rx7 GTU ~ Turbo conversion and much more
I know I know I know. But I'm not telling
Tell me! Tell me!
87 Lxi ~ 5spd conversion, full exhaust, still slow
90 Rx7 GTU ~ Turbo conversion and much more
ok, so now I really feel like a schmuck for not getting back to you when you left me a voicemail asking about doing this swap, but I'm happy you found Nick and he was able to help you out.
So it's been what, about a year now since I called you about you selling this damn thing on craigslist and got you on the board. Any regrets about finding your way to the light and keeping the 3G? I know I'm happy you kept it, and are giving it some much-needed attention.
Sick work man. I wish I had the time you have to be doing all this work. Hit me up one day if you're bored. The cold is coming which means I can't spend most of my free time on the bike, and my hatchie needs some very overdue attention, so I'm going to force myself to start spending more time here and turning wrenches.
Last edited by markmdz89hatch; 09-26-2010 at 04:15 PM.
-Mark D.
Where did you get those projector headlight lenses? And what size were they? I'm looking to get them for my coupe and upgrade with HID.
Those aren't real projectors, look them up on ebay "7x6 projectors", you'll find plenty for like 30$, don't get them :\
unless you plan on doing a retrofit with them. then they are pretty much required, but ONLY if you are going for a retrofit.
dont bother to chip the stock pj0 ecu, save your time and money and go OBD1. Itll save you tons of headaches and money in the end esp if you wanna go turbo.
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
C'mon mike quit pullin our leg and tell us why cause i still haven't figured it out!!!!!!
I strongly recommend the HID upgrade. It make a world of difference. I got them from ebay a good while back. I think i paid like 35-40 buck but they suck without the HID. With the HID kit it really projects a beam that is impressive. I got the 8k bulbs which is perfect cause it's mad bright and has just a slight tint of blue so it doesn't call the cops attention. The bad thing bout these conversion kits is that if it rains with the lights down, water gets in them which is why the driver side is a bit dimmer than the right. The glass gets dirty and dingy on the inside and it's very hard to clean cause of the projector lens inside.
This pic is of the HID and inner bulb on, halo off.
This is the inner bulb and halo on,HID off.
This is just the halo on, inner bulb and HID off.
And this is the front view with the hood lights,halo,and inner bulb on, HID off.
Last edited by Sickest3G; 10-18-2010 at 07:07 PM.
An F250 bumped me in the rear 2 months after my engine rebuild but i got 3k for the damages so next weekend my baby will be going in for a cosmetic over haul and will be back in a fresh coat of black. The last thing I did to it was install a race cat w/ 2.25" piping to the dual canister dual 3" tips....and it sounds so mean! Now I can really hear the dizzy advancing by the vacuum. It sounds like a V-TEC @ 3k RPM and up.
Next will be the 11" rear rotor upgrade. And 40/40 prop valve.....which i have already.
Last edited by Sickest3G; 10-18-2010 at 06:09 PM.
Thanks brotherin. You got that right mark....very happy. This puppy is much quicker now too. I'm very happy with my end results and it just keeps getting better with the help of my fellow 3geez fam.....A toast to all those of us here who has shed blood, sweat, and tears for the greater well being, greater performance, and unique old skool sense of style of everyone who loves and supports OUR 3rd gen accords.....Long live 3GEEZ!!!!!
Those lights have zero cutoff. Wtf, that's *horrible*.
If you're going to do HIDs at least retrofit some oem projectors so the optics/engineering are retained.
Rebased h4s in shitty ebay housings is not the way to go. You're a danger to other people on the road since they can't see shit if you're headlights are blinding them.
Knock Knock...Im back. As for the guy with the sensitive eyes....the lights do retain there optic engineering by having a projector lense in the center but fortunatly for ME i have the best of both worlds cause not only do i have a focused beam of light pointed to the ground ahead of me but i also have light shining on everything else in my path unlike oem retrofitted projectors. And fortunatly for you, "sensitive eye guy", you're not a moth so you dont have to worry about being blinded by me coming toward you cause you CAN look straight ahead instead of at my lights.
Anyways...back to the subject.... I blew my head gasket a few weeks ago and since i have to take the head off i decieded to put in some work by adding some HP to the the new a20. I sent my camshaft to colt cams for a stage 2 triflow grind and i already customized the b16 manifold i had laying around waiting for an occassion like this. I'll be port matching the head and mani and port and polishing the intake mani and exhaust side of the head cause the intake is already done. I'll also be getting a 3 angle valve job and new "bronze" valve guides instead of stock ones. I still have like 10-12 days before the cam comes back so if any one has any suggestions or questions now is the time before it all come back together. I also made some hot cosmetic changes but will be posting pics and details in the next week or so stay tuned.
Last edited by Sickest3G; 10-31-2011 at 08:32 PM.
Alright guys a couple days ago i finished up the work i set out to accomplish but I have reached a dissatisfying point...after all vacums and plugs were connected the engine doesnt want to rev past 4k while driving. it's suggish and back fires from time to time and the ecu is throwing a number 1 code (oxygen sensor) but that may be due to the fact that there's no EGR anymore. The cylinders have 200psi theres good fire and air. The engine timing is on point...tdc. I advanced and retarded the dizzy all the way to the fire wall which seems the best position as far as performance goes. I wired the map sensor from the black vacum box to the one on the b16 intake. These are the specs on the COLT TRIFLOW CAM:
PRIM INT 280° .390 LIFT
SEC INT 268° .383 LIFT
EX 288° .390 LIFT
Recommended for carburetor engine. However, it will work on F.I. with a noticeable idle
and possibly a slight surge. Strong mid range. No mods are required
Power band is 3500 - 7500 R.P.M.
Due to these problems i will be doing an obd1 conv. to best handle these current problems and any other limitations surrounding the obd0 system. But in the meantime can any one shed some light on why the engine has such poor performance?
Here are a couple pics of the powder coated intake, thermastat housing ,fuel rail and headers. More detailed pic about the build coming soon.
Alright guys a couple days ago i finished up the work i set out to accomplish but I have reached a dissatisfying point...after all vacums and plugs were connected the engine doesnt want to rev past 4k while driving. it's suggish and back fires from time to time and the ecu is throwing a number 1 code (oxygen sensor) but that may be due to the fact that there's no EGR anymore. The cylinders have 200psi theres good fire and air. The engine timing is on point...tdc. I advanced and retarded the dizzy all the way to the fire wall which seems the best position as far as performance goes. I wired the map sensor from the black vacum box to the one on the b16 intake. These are the specs on the COLT TRIFLOW CAM:
PRIM INT 280° .390 LIFT
SEC INT 268° .383 LIFT
EX 288° .390 LIFT
Recommended for carburetor engine. However, it will work on F.I. with a noticeable idle
and possibly a slight surge. Strong mid range. No mods are required
Power band is 3500 - 7500 R.P.M.
Due to these problems i will be doing an obd1 conv. to best handle these current problems and any other limitations surrounding the obd0 system. But in the meantime can any one shed some light on why the engine has such poor performance?
Here are a couple pics of the powder coated intake, thermastat housing ,fuel rail and headers. More detailed pic about the build coming soon.
Now I am just gonna throw this out there, but have you checked all grounds to make sure they are secure, and touching the right type of metal(no paint, ect)? Every time I have done a swap, the grounds have ended up being the main source for most of my issues.
No I haven't checked them again but i will although im sure they are tight. I did readjust the valves today and it runs alot better than it did before but still no power after 2.5-3k RPM and it accelerates slow. Right now im rechecking all the vacum line to make sure the nessesary ones are hooked up but what i would like to know is how to make sure the b16 mani MAP sensor is wired correctly to the stock wires. Any takers on this?
Here's the b16 intake before powder coating but after retro fitting onto a20 block and polish:
And after powder coating:
I drilled another hole on the stock accel. cable bracket, used some long bolts with long spacers, and bent it a bit to fit perfect.
I tapped a hole for the intake temperature sensor cause it didnt have a hole and all I had to do was run a wire from the int. temp. sen. to the plug which doesn't reach the sensor and the same for the fast idle valve which now sits to the back of the intake instead of the front like the stock location. But like i mentioned before, it runs but it doesnt have good performance. It needs to be tuned cause i did a stage 2 triflow cam and a B16 mani and a port and polish at the same time. I will most likely be doing an OBD1 swap if I cant get it to run right. But it may be a couple weeks before I have the amount I need to get it all done...btw I got a damn good price on the: (100) dyno tune, (50)chipped p06 ecu and (50)conversion harness and a (100) distributor ...300 total or less if i help with the tune and install. He said 200 for just the dyno tune tho.
Last edited by Sickest3G; 11-18-2011 at 10:11 AM.
Is anyone running a similar setup with OBD 0? I need some pointers on how to get it to run right without the OBD 1 swap. Thanks.....More updates to come.
Here are the pics of the intake runner port match:
Intake side has bronze valve guides but the exhaust has stock.
Last edited by Sickest3G; 11-18-2011 at 10:37 AM.
And this is the head work:
I ran something similar to you. I also had an Accel coil and a fuel pressure regulator.
I/H/E, B16 mani, delta 272, OBD1....etc
The fact that you have to turn the distributor all the way one direction tells me that the timing belt is probably off a tooth. This is quite common and will create exactly the conditions you describe. I see you have an adjustable cam pulley. This may make things more tricky if it doesn't have the alignment marks on the sides like the stock pulley. How did you align the timing belt?
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