There aren't specific instructions for the timing belt because it'd look like this:
1. Remove alternator (section 18)
2. Remove PS pump (section 32)
3. Remove A/C compressor (section 28)
Etc., etc. It's about 13 different jobs rolled into one. It's not hard, but it is a lot of work. The easiest way to remember it is to just remove stuff until you can get the timing belt cover off. Replace the belt and then put it all back on.
You'll have a lot better luck with this manual:
http://honda.roadpwnage.com/manuals/...-1989-full.php
Get old oil seals out by jamming a screwdriver through the soft rubber part and prying out the hard metal part. Use the old seal to drive in the new seal making sure to oil the new seal well. Drive it until it bottoms in the housing.
I'm with Nswst8 on methods for getting the crank bolt out. When I had an AT, I put a 6" impact socket extension partway into the timing light hole. Make sure you use something that won't fall completely into the bell housing, or you'll be dropping the transmission to get it out. Turn the crank bolt until the drive plate wedges against the extension and you can give the crank bolt heck without it turning.
If you have an MT, just put the thing in gear, put a screwdriver (or a hardened steel punch) into the rotor vents and you have the same situation.
The most important thing in all of this is to make sure that you get both the camshaft and crankshaft at TDC before you put on the new belt. They can move when you have the old one off. When you put the new one on, check again to make sure that both the camshaft and crankshaft are at TDC. They can move when you are putting on the new belt. The best way to get the new belt on is to put the new tensioner on first. Then route the belt through the lower gears and pulleys and walk it over the cam pulley last. Just put it on a couple teeth at a time until you get them all. Start from the spark plug side so that everything stays at TDC.
Finally, some shops change the water pump during a timing belt service too. That adds a few more hours to the job and it's not required. However, if you finish up a timing belt service and the pump starts chattering 1,000 miles later, you'll be pulling a lot of the same stuff apart again to replace it.
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