Slow LX-i?

[Ju_S12_Turbo]

So I just picked up a new accord, it is stupid slow. I can say this because my carbed car with way more miles and problems was faster.

I am just posting this as a brain storm so I can look over here for idea's to help the problem.

Right now I have changed

Cap, rotor ( the ones I changed were Both oem lol Edit: like from when the car was new lol)
Spark plugs (With .035 gap according to the tsb)
Spark plug wires
air filter
ran straight pipe's (Just to see if it was a clogged cat)
Put in a Blaster 2 coil
and ran seafoam through the intake
Check compression: Done it was 150 across the board
tranny fluid lev:perfect fluid looked good as well
Check and adjust timing: Done it is dead on and I check the vac advance and it worked as it should
change oil: good as well
Did the valves
Timing belt is perfect as well and in perfect time with the engine
Fuel filter in engine bay doing smaller one later
Things that I still need to do:

Fuel pump test
Egr?
run Fuel cleaner through the system



If anyone has a idea feel free to post it up.

[Civic Accord Honda]

check compresion check injectors do a valve adjustment(makes huge difference i have learned), check dizzy,

and wait... never heard of a egr glowing red O_o
def replalce it and see if that helps

[MessyHonda]

yeah check the timing for sure.

[Oldblueaccord]

Timing belt could be a few teeth off ,retarded, would be lack of power.


wp

[Ju_S12_Turbo]

check compresion check injectors do a valve adjustment(makes huge difference i have learned), check dizzy,

and wait... never heard of a egr glowing red O_o
def replalce it and see if that helps

I'll Do the valves today and compresion and timing and check timing belt/timing lol. Also I meant the EGR Pipe coming off the mani

Edit: Ah I also didn't think about the age of the timing belt and that it could have stretched causing the "slow" problem. I mean I pulled off a OEM rotor/dizzy cap lol.

[LX-incredible]

Glowing red? That's more than an egr problem. Retarded timing or a lean fuel mixture will cause this.

[Strugglebucket]

Timing and valve adjustment check sounds good to me. I'd replace the fuel filter too.

Get it running right and I think you'll like the fuel injected A20 waaay better.


p.s. This reminds me, I need to get a damn ESCA membership so I can run at Santa Rosa Airport again. That place is like the Nurburgring of autox sites, lol.

[Ju_S12_Turbo]

Timing and valve adjustment check sounds good to me. I'd replace the fuel filter too.

Get it running right and I think you'll like the fuel injected A20 waaay better.


p.s. This reminds me, I need to get a damn ESCA membership so I can run at Santa Rosa Airport again. That place is like the Nurburgring of autox sites, lol.

haha yeah, I stopped by that auto-x today. small group 51 people or so and it was a mini infineon race way lol. But I posted up in the meets for the next dates and what not. Also you can sign up at the site now which is sick

[Ju_S12_Turbo]

Ok did compression test today, 150 on all of them, though I have to re test it because this was on a cold engine. But it should still be pretty close from what I understand. I am going to borrow my friends leak down tester and check that.

Timing gun is still MIA but will get a new one tomorrow, Also I got a vac pump so I can test the Vac Advance on the distributor . I pulled the plugs after some more tests and driving, I am pretty sure the car is running super lean.


I wish I knew how hot my car was getting but the temp gauge is broken still lol.

[Ju_S12_Turbo]

ok vac advance did what it was suppose when vac was applied, timing is spot on, valves are perfect, oil is perfect, air filter is good.

So I am running lean still, think my fuel pump might be going out. I dont have a fuel psi gauge to check the psi and I still need to change the fuel filter and run injector cleaner through the car. any other injectors fit with out major mods? lol


running out of ideas here lol.

Oh spark is super strong as well.

[2oodoor]

reomove all four plugs
put number one piston to Top Dead Center
when TDC you should be able to look in the bell housing slot at the flywheel and see the scribed "T" mark. A lot of these cars have paint marks and various other markings but the scribed T is true TDC. Sometimes it is hard to see because it is not nearly as visable as those other marks which are made for ignition tiiming lights to pick up .
Once you have the T aligned to the cast pointer, you remove valve cover and top cam gear cover. Be careful not to disturb the rubber gaskets and you can reuse those.
The cam gear should have two scribe dashes on the outer ring, these should be lined up with the head casting on both sides. In other words an imaginary line as you view it from the side , would be level across the valve cover mating surface.
If the marks are not lined up, you loosen the timing belt tensioner pulley. This can be done without removing anything, just look down by the alternator there is a bolt sticking out thru the timing cover. Just loosen it a litte, not remove it. Then carefully slide the T belt off only at the cam gear, dont let it fall and try to keep it undisturbed as you turn the cam gear to line up the marks. Slide the belt back onto the cam gear, all the while ensure the crank has not moved and is still on TDC.
After the belt is on, turn the motor over just a bump,then tighten the belt tensioner. Reinstall the valve cover and plugs. Fire it up and recheck the ignition timing.. that aughta do it.
People get these things a tooth or three off at the timing belt then compensate for it by bumping the ignition timing around so it winds up lean as fark. With the vacuum advance set up the way they are on these cars, it can be hard to detect at first.

[Dr_Snooz]

How do you define slow? These were never fast cars to begin with.

Do you have any trouble codes blinking on the ECU? I believe the O2 sensors govern fuel mixture so that would be a place to look. The EGR system can also influence fuel mixture. I see mentions of a glowing EGR in replies above, but not in your original post, so I'm not sure what symptoms you are experiencing. It might be worth your time to dig a little deeper into that and see what you are able to learn. If your EGR ports are all coked up, you could be running lean without ever flashing a trouble code.

[Ju_S12_Turbo]

Hmmmm ok I am doing the timing belt before the auto x. So that will be in check. As far as blink lights, I have not checked that yet and by slow I mean it is a good deal slower then then my carb car with more miles and lower comp. And I will check the codes\egr and let you know

Sent from phone btw lol

[Ju_S12_Turbo]

So the marks I have on my flywheel are the normal 15 one I | I and then there is one like -I- I am guessing that is the tdc one correct? because I didn't see a T though I was in a bit of a rush so I might check again tomorrow.

If it is the -I- the "up" was facing the crank pulley, this would mean it is out of time right?

[Strugglebucket]

Nah, I think you just had it at TDC on the exhaust stroke instead of the compression stroke. If the cam really was 180deg off I don't think your car would run at all. If the marks on the cam sprocket are parallel with the horizontal surface of the head then you're good.

To get it to TDC on the compression stroke, take off the distributor cap and turn the engine so the rotor is pointing to about where the #1 spark contact would be if the cap was on. Then get the flywheel mark lined up with the pointer and check the cam sprocket.

[Ju_S12_Turbo]

ok, Timing belt was spot on. Checked ecu codes nothing came up, tested to make sure I had check engine light by pulling plug on the iac, works and came up with that code. Running out of ideas here lol. changing fuel filter today, see if that helps

[Ju_S12_Turbo]

So When I say slow, A run of the mill a20 will do a 9sec zero to 60. mine is much closer to 14secs. or more.

Ok so I need to figure out more things that would cause massively slow/lean, I have been updating the first post of things that I have done or need to.

Next one is 2nd fuel filter (Did the primary one in the engine bay but didn't change anything) and I am going to try the fuel pump test to see if the pump is doing it's job. starting to think maybe MAP or something along those lines or FPR. because all the plugs look the same, Hella white.

If you can think of anything that I have not already done in my first post by all means let me know, I would like it to go a bit faster for the auto-x this week. So let me know.


Thanks

[Strugglebucket]

Did you ever fix your issue with the temp guage? If the ecu is not getting an accurate temperature reading it could really screw with your a/f ratio.

[Strugglebucket]

My break's almost over, but here's some other things off the top of my head:

-Bad injector(s)
-Bad ecu
-Bad intake temp sensor (doubt it)
-check that plugs are correct size and heat range
-how did you set the ignition timing? Should be set to 15btdc WITH the vac advance connected.
-could be bad o2 sensors as well, they'll only throw a code after you drive at steady throttle for 10 minutes straight.
-bad/missing thermostat
-sticking brake calipers
-if your car is an '88/89, check that the intake manifold secondaries are operating properly (big diaphragm on drivers side of manifold should pop open @ 5000rpm. Should have vacuum holding it closed while below 5000.

[Ju_S12_Turbo]

My break's almost over, but here's some other things off the top of my head:

-Bad injector(s)
-Bad ecu
-Bad intake temp sensor (doubt it)
-check that plugs are correct size and heat range
-how did you set the ignition timing? Should be set to 15btdc WITH the vac advance connected.
-could be bad o2 sensors as well, they'll only throw a code after you drive at steady throttle for 10 minutes straight.
-bad/missing thermostat
-sticking brake calipers
-if your car is an '88/89, check that the intake manifold secondaries are operating properly (big diaphragm on drivers side of manifold should pop open @ 5000rpm. Should have vacuum holding it closed while below 5000.

Thanks a bunch for the list, I'll check o2's and thermostat today. the brakes could be sticking as well, but not all the. I drove the car back from santa cruz so it made that drive. and my car is a 88 so I will check the secondaries.
Timing was done as you said, I am starting to think ecu because there was a big leak on the driver said, but I guess I will do the cheaper stuff first.

[ShyBoyCA6]

I don't think LX-Is have a second fuel filter

[Ju_S12_Turbo]

I don't think LX-Is have a second fuel filter

If I remember right it's by the fuel tank, I could be wrong but they do sell them lol. That would be great if they didn't cause I dont care to change it lol

[ShyBoyCA6]

Yeah they have it cause it will be next the the tank left hand side where the tire is at and its white I think? Well here's another solution to your problem: have you checked your injectors? A clogged injector will probably be a cuase or if not the rotor and cap.

And do you have any check engine light on? If so..if it blinks once or twice like every 5 seconds then it will be your O2 sensors and check your thermostat too that could be an issue as well

[Ju_S12_Turbo]

No check engine light, no codes. I thought injectors but for all of them to be clogged the same amount I thought it was unlikely. Thermostat I am going to check, but that wouldn't cause a massive slow down, also if it was stuck open or not there it would run richer not leaner. Cap and rotor was first on my list. Check my first post for everything.

I got a new used fpr I am going to try out and a new dash to see if that fixes my temp gauge, because all the wiring and sensors we fine as well as fuses. Also thinking maybe a stuck map? due to lots of carbon build up. and I keep meaning to do that damn fuel pump test. well everything will be done today because I work tonight (12am to 8am) then I auto-x at 9am lol.

[LX-incredible]

Yeah they have it cause it will be next the the tank left hand side where the tire is at and its white I think? Well here's another solution to your problem: have you checked your injectors? A clogged injector will probably be a cuase or if not the rotor and cap.

And do you have any check engine light on? If so..if it blinks once or twice like every 5 seconds then it will be your O2 sensors and check your thermostat too that could be an issue as well

Fuel injected accords do not have a secondary fuel filter.

Another thing to check is the mechanical advance. It likes to grenade around 200k. You should be able to turn the rotor clockwise and it should spring back into position.