I was replacing my fuel filter and having a hard time getting one of the banjo bolts off the top when the plastic nipple on top of this canister broke. It sits in front of the charcoal canister and im not sure what it is. I looked in the manual but found nothing useful. It looks like its part of the vacuum system or EGR possibly? Can i still drive the car without this? Any Help is greatly appreciated ! Thanks in advance.
Also forum will not let me post pictures because i have less than 5 posts
bump
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http://img17.imageshack.us/content_r...aaccord001.jpg
I hope that works, thanks.
you can always get one from the junkyard...or see if you can glue it back togther
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
vac res for something, try getting one at a junkyard or just stick some bolts in the lines and see how it runs lol
1988 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe 123k miles.
Yes it is a vacuum tank. It look like it leads to the black box. Look in the box and see what it goes to, or search around this site. Here is the black box innards for FI.Click "Display All Parts".http://www.bkhondaparts.com/billkay/...ount=0&hidSwit
My '66' GT I built. My first Hot Rod magazine Cover "Summer 85". I've had it for 32 years, since I was 18. It's a trailer queen. 289 Hi-po, t-10 Toploader 4speed, 9 inch rearend.
do you need one, I have a carb car one, but it's basically the same thing
i put some contact cement to join the two pieces back together, i hope that holds ok for now, i went to a parts store but they didnt have any idea really what it was, so i'll look around some local yards and if not the dealership and see what they want for it .... but my car wont start now, it was stuttering before i changed the fuel filter, and stalling, it would run for 10 seconds and then stall. I've only had the car for one year so i figured i would start with the filter, the fuel pump seems to be working ok, but i was driving it the other day and it just died on me so i gotta get this fixed. Any ideas? i bought all the regular maintenance stuff too that could be bad, distributor cap, rotor, spark plugs and wires, haven't replaced all that stuff yet but it seems like thats not the issue with the car not running. I've searched quite a bit on here but it seems like it could be alot of things. any help is much appreciated !
The black thing you have circled ? in red is a vacuum reservoir. It looks suspiciously like the vacuum reservoir adjacent to the cruise control actuator. It has some purpose in the evaporative emissions system that keeps rogue hydrocarbons (fuel vapour) out of the atmosphere.
I'm not EFI but from some of the posts I've read over the years your main relay may be the cause of your car dying. It's two relays in one package. One relay supplies power to the ECU, the injectors and to the second relay. The second relay supplies power to the fuel pump. Do a forum search on "main relay", a solution to your woes could be there.
This is the reserve for the dual stage intake manifold.
You NEED this part in order to have the intake work properly. You can always bypass it while you're getting another one.
http://pages.videotron.com/omus
3geez member since July 12 2000
I need these parts!
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67742
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88 LX-i coupe auto (241K DD), 88 LX-i coupe 5-speed, 89 SE-i coupe auto.
CARDONE SUCKS.Originally Posted by stat1K
what does it do store vacuum to open up the butterflys?
that's odd, my secondary butterflies are always open & vacuum is what closes them
After tracing it. It is vacuum line #12 if you have the under the hood diagram. One hose goes from the vacuum tank, through a check valve and on to the intake plenum, the other side out of the tank the hose goes to the black box, so without pulling the cover of my black box I am thinking it may go to the MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor. Here is a little thread I posted about sensors that never got pinned, but it explains basic sensors.
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthrea...hlight=sensors
And if it does go to the MAP sensor and that glued gonnection is not sealed all the way, that could be your problem.
This is just a copy and paste info, ours is not on the fender or does not cost $25.00. This is just general information:
The MAP sensor - another frequent cause of stalling or non-starting. This measures the air pressure in the manifold. It is usually mounted on a fender, costs around $25, and is easy to replace. You can test it - if your car won't start, just unplug the electrical connection from the MAP sensor. If it starts, replace the sensor. MAP sensor details. (It may act as though the fuel pump is not working properly - starting, then quickly dying).
Last edited by Bluntman; 07-05-2010 at 06:53 PM.
My '66' GT I built. My first Hot Rod magazine Cover "Summer 85". I've had it for 32 years, since I was 18. It's a trailer queen. 289 Hi-po, t-10 Toploader 4speed, 9 inch rearend.
Thanks so much for all the great information, turns out it was the distributor cap and rotor that were losing spark, i had all the parts already purchased but it seemed so much like a fuel issue that i took it to a local shop to have him run a test and he found that the distributor cap and rotor were the cause of the issue, shes up and running again ! but the valve train is sounding kind of noisy, slight click to it when shes running ... no knocking, but a constant click that is audible at idle, is this normal ?? Thanks again for all the help!
Last edited by DT_10; 07-06-2010 at 05:47 PM.
could the noise be a valve tick?
-dan
Start by adjusting the valves and see if that improves the noise. Being solid lifters, they will make a certain amount of noise, though.
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
thats what i was thinking, getting a valve adjustment might do it for ya.
-dan
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