pressure that's built up in the tank getting released
pressure that's built up in the tank getting released
I'm guessing it's pressurized for the fuel-injection to work? Anyway, what's a heater valve? Is it open or closed when the heat is on (and vice-versa when the cold is on)?
the pressure in the tank is caused by the evaporative controls, gas vapor isn't allowed to escape into the atmosphere, so the fumes are supposed to be absorbed by the charcoal canister and regulated by the two way valve on top of the tank. The problem is all the tanks on Honda's entire lineup for years tended to over pressurize. A lot of people complained but nothing was ever done. The pressure in the tank has nothing to do with pressurizing the fuel for the carburetor or the FI, LOL. Thats why there are fuel pumps.
the heater valve is opened by a cable and allows coolant to flow through the heater core when you need heat.
Okay, so at which setting is the heater valve "closed"?
Wait, that's not what I meant...I think...
Yeah, 3 of my 5 mounts are worn, from what the mechanic says, 2 in the back and 1 in the front. I know that this could attribute to it, but I wanted to make sure. Also, my idle is about 1 to 1 1/2k, which seems normal... I also noticed this morning that if I use just a little weight/force to hold down the dash in front of the passenger seat, this stops the rattle.
Any thoughts what a good price for motor mounts would be? Individually or all 3... My dad said that we could probably do it ourselves with the tools he's got, but I don't want to mess up this amazingly well maintained car if it's not gonna cost too much to just bring it in and fix it.
~Storm Plooper~
Where do you collect unemployment when your job is blown up?
The mounts are easy, no need to pay for something that you can do yourself. Use this as a learning experience with the added benefit of bonding time with your dad. I lost my dad last year. What I wouldn't give for more time with my dad.
Phil
Speaking of gas tanks, I get the same hiss from the pressure, never really bothered me, but when I filled up the tank for the first time since I got the car, the gas will go all the way up to the cap, sometimes into the threading for the cap, and when I pulled out the pump, gas came out of the pump after I pulled it out of the gas tank (about 8oz. of fluid) and poured all over the ground. Is there something I can do to stop this from happening again? Is this normal for these older cars? Obviously, I can stop pumping before it is full, but I have no way of knowing when it is full until the pump shuts off. Is there a sensor or something that is supposed to stop that from happening?
~Storm Plooper~
Where do you collect unemployment when your job is blown up?
There's a pressure sensor in the gas pump that monitors how full your tank gets. It's supposed to shut itself off.
My emissions are done, I passed, so I may be wrong (I will check it when I get out to my car later) ... I never have to do emissions again (WOOHOO!) since I already got it done, passed with flying colors. But, maybe, now that you mention it, my idle is just too low and I need to adjust that... Maybe that is what is causing the rattle... How would I increase that?
UPDATE
Ok, so my idle is right around 1k and I forgot to mention that if I put the car in neutral, it gets rid of the shutter, but when I put it back into drive or leave it in drive at a stop, that is when it is shuttering.
Last edited by StormPlooper; 05-15-2011 at 09:25 AM.
~Storm Plooper~
Where do you collect unemployment when your job is blown up?
Can having a disintegrated constant-velocity boot (and thus a dry joint) cause alignment issues?
I have an 88 lxi 5spd and can not get my fuel filter off!!
Please give some advice for this
Is the issue that you can't get it off because it will not turn or something else? If the issue is that it will not turn, more than likely the place that put your filter on probably didn't put any oil on the seal and obviously didn't put it on hand tight. There are tools that can get it off, but don't get the one that is the ring with a handle on it, those are useless! The one you want is an extension to a wrench that you can adjust the tightness... It will have a loop and a long metal shaft that is usually swivel-able.
Usually, it is best to just take it to a shop, ask them to either loosen the filter for you (because they usually have the right tools) or you can ask them to do the oil change, but make sure to only hand tighten the filter... Then take it off when you get home and put oil on the seal then put it back on hand tight, don't let it sit on there because you don't know if they did it or not and you will run into the same problem.
~Storm Plooper~
Where do you collect unemployment when your job is blown up?
No, but it can cause a pull to one side.
Use an impact gun. Failing that, use the hillbilly impact method in this thread. Try removing it from the bracket and holding the old filter with a Channel-Lock or something. Anything else is going to bend the bracket.
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
[/QUOTE]Use an impact gun. Failing that, use the hillbilly impact method in Try removing it from the bracket and holding the old filter with a Channel-Lock or something. Anything else is going to bend the bracket.[/QUOTE]
ok thanks ill try that when it stops raining
you may need a new crush washer when you put in the new filter, sometimes the new filter will have one with it
I want to remove my a/c and all components. What is connected to my a/c. And could I just cut the belt. Cars an 88 accord lx-I sedan
Last edited by freitos; 05-18-2011 at 11:33 PM.
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