would 92 prelude struts fit me 89 accord lxi
would 92 prelude struts fit me 89 accord lxi
Here's a Stumper that's had me wondering for about 3 months now.
Will the stock rear taillights on 4gen Accords fit our 3gee accords? IDK anyone anymore with a 4gee or else i'd measure them myself and see. I need to replace mine though. Passenger side has a 2in. x 2in. hole in the lense. And Honda wants me to buy their gold plated replacement, minus the gold. (Way too much for a simple, non-mechanical part)
On a side note, all else fails, I'll be busting the rest of the lenses out of the current ones, painting the inside Metallic Red, Using LED stock replacement bulbs and making the lenses outta Lexan. Taillights just gotta light up red in Alabama. Not white, blue, green etc. And they're supposed to have somewhat reflectivity to them. Red Reflective Vinyl tape in spots will work perfect.
Any ideas? Comments?
Shaggy
FF II/ETC I
"What's my age again? What's my age again?"
they don't swap, get the duplicolr adodized red paint, you will need to use the base first, it's a highly reflective red, I had a thread somewhere where I made one of those lenses, lots and lots of mini C clamps and a heat gun and a couple of hours to carefully bend the lens
Last edited by lostforawhile; 07-04-2012 at 08:29 AM.
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
Can someone please direct me to a thread that will help give me some knowledge on doing a b series motor swap for a 1984 hatch, ek1, any information will be appreciated, please an thank you.
Will I need to swap in a FI accord's tranny or will a carbs work? 5 speed swap if I can find the tranny in a junker round here
yup a carb one will work
B20A from the 3g Accord only. It's pretty close to fitting without too many mods. I have one in mine. It's a pretty easy swap if you've never done anything before. But the B20A is not a B-series. Search around here about the B20A and you'll find out more information on how to identify it.
To get it in my car, basically I unbolted various brackets from the stock motor and bolted them on the B20A. It just took the right combination of mounts, with a little bit of slotting on the bolt holes, and dropped the engine and trans in. To mate up the axles, I used 85 SEi axles, wheel bearings, and hubs. Mine is still carb'd, but you might wanna convert the car to PGM-FI.
Got a few for my 86 accord lxi here. I'm sure they've been asked before, but I think that's the point of this thread.
Best way/how to take care of some body rust?
Missing some trim where the back window meets the body, Any place I can get a replacement for that?
Is there any particular wax that is extra friendly to the body? Should I get something special living in Michigan with winter and salty roads?
If I'm not mistaken I remember seeing a b16 or b18 in a 2gee. Some guy in Thailand I think. He was a new member here that posted some pics of it . I think the color of it was grey or something.
I have looked around and keep seeing different answers. Is my 86 LXi hatch a CA5? Some places showed differently. And my second question is how much would an clean working Oem fog switch with wires all ready to be hooked up to the under dash fuse box, ground, and a relay next to the battery be worth.
Low loud lovin it!
bosozoku inspired 86 LX-I hatchie
~~~~~~~IG @the_boso_3g~~~~~~~
Was there a design change in the exhaust for LX-i's from 1988 to 1989? I tried swapping the aftermarket exhaust from the '89 sedan to the '88 coupe and they didn't even install the same way. Headers, catalytic converter...all the same up until the part where the exhaust tip connects to the front portion of exhaust right in front of the rear axle.
Nawmean?
there was a split in all of them, the 86-87 to 88-89 the 86 LXI had the manual seatbelts etc, then the doors changed and the body changed slightly, the seatbelt type usually tells the difference, the belts attached to the doors required different doors etc to work. EG. door moldings and window moldings won't interchange
Ok got it. Thanks all three of you. Much appriciated! I didn't know know that there was a difference in the exhaust. And as far as the fog switch & wires are worth, $30 is a good price?
Low loud lovin it!
bosozoku inspired 86 LX-I hatchie
~~~~~~~IG @the_boso_3g~~~~~~~
I'm new here and this place is freaking awesome, I love it. I just bought a 1987 Honda Accord LX 5-speed for $525, and it isn't perfect, but it did get me home 80 miles without issue.
I'm using this car to really learn mechanical skills, doing all of my own repairs, maintenance, and improvements. I want to give the car the respect it deserves. I'm an accountant that wants to do everything car related on my own eventually, and then help friends and family with their cars in addition to their taxes as a good friend should.
I'd like to replace all of the hoses, starting with the radiator upper and lower hoses which I just ordered, along with new hose clamps. Next would be vacuum hoses, and that's where I need help. So far, I've replaced the distributor cap and rotor, spark plugs and spark plug wires, air filter, and replaced the brake fluid and power steering fluid. I'll be doing all maintenance and major tune up work over the next few months, in addition to brake pads, rotors, shoes replacement.
1. Can anyone forward me to, or explain to me, what size hoses I need to replace all vacuum hoses, what material is best (silicone?), and finally, the approximate length of each size I'll need to cut and fit all hoses.
2. Next, besides radiator and vacuum, what other hoses/lines (fuel, brake?) need to be replaced, and is there any similar information found on here to replace all of those?
3. Finally, one major issue I'd love advice on from more experienced owners and mechanics is two-fold. When the engine is cold, it takes awhile to start up, about 5-10 seconds. When it's warm, it starts immediately. Then when it does start from cold, it idles from 2000 to 3000 rpm and takes approximately three minutes to come back down to round 1200 rpm. At that point I can turn it off, restart it right away and it will idle at 1200 rpm again rather than the original high rpm when it was cold.
Any and all help would be tremendously appreciated. Thank you so much!
it's supposed to idle high when cold then drop down, it's still idling high though,this could be a vacuum leak, not just the hoses but probably one of the diaphragms on the carburetor, as far as hoses I would definitely replace all four brake hoses, I had one break once and it wasn't fun, they should be available at most auto parts stores, if they are original they are well beyond needing to be replaced, every time you step on the brakes they are put under stress, and you can imagine how over decades they will wear out. I would start reading the carb section stickies on your idle issue, also buy a hand vacuum pump at the auto parts store, I have an Actron, it wasn't too expensive, and it's invaluable for testing vacuum related parts on these carbs, if you find a bad part, it's most likely not available anymore, if he's still in business contact importcarbs.com he makes a lot of this stuff so he can rebuild these. You are already on the right track replacing coolant hoses, and yes I would recommend replacing the fuel lines, make sure what you get are actually fuel lines and not vacuum hoses, they should say on the hose, there will be a rubber line to the fuel filter from the tank, then another line from the filter to the metal line, for some reason, some of them have another section of rubber line a little bit up the metal line under the car, replace it if you've got one, you will have a piece of hose from the hardline at the firewall to the filter on the carb, while you are doing this, of course replace those filters, I say to replace these lines, because the corn gas isn't good to them, most new fuel line sold will say for fuel injection and is rated for corn
Some of the hoses are the same diameter. So, if you take one off and take it to an auto parts store, they can get the right diameter hose for you. You take each old hose you want to replace to the store and have them cut a new hose the same length. However, I believe most stores sell hose by the foot, 1 ft. being the minimum length. So, if replacing multiple hose sections of a particular diameter, you could estimate how the total length you need, buy an section of hose that length, and then do the cutting for actual sections of hose at home. A utility knife with a sharp blade works well for this.
re: idle speed: once the engine is warmed up, the idle speed should be 700 +/- 50 rpm at idle with the headlights and rear defroster on and the heater blower running at maximum speed. This would be with the transmission in Park or neutral.
Last edited by derolph; 07-22-2012 at 10:34 AM.
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