No, the one for the gauge is separate.Originally Posted by Saavedro88
No, the one for the gauge is separate.
Actually that may be the thermostat staying open or completely missing,therefore the,engine never properly warms up enough to move the gauge.
sensor is the single pin one on the back of the intake manifold, make sure the connector isn't corroded
The engine warms up nicely, and the cooling fans cut on and off as any normal car does. I don't believe this to be the problem.
I have started a thread to more properly discuss the issues I am having with the carburetor, in attempt not to clutter this thread.
Last edited by Saavedro88; 01-11-2015 at 06:03 PM.
Hello everyone. I have an 86 accord that needs a new combination switch but all I can find used is from 87-89 accords. I've read that the newer combination switches won't work without modafaction to it. I was thinking of switching the column to the 87-89 years, yet don't know if I can use my 86 steering wheel on the newer columns. Anyone do this with any luck? As I don't like the 4 button horn idea. Also could I change it to use my key, or would I be stuck using two (one for the door and one for the ignition) tried looking around but couldn't find any info about this. Thanks ✌️
there is a slight difference in the mid generation between 87-87 and 88-89 which moves the brackets the combination switch mounts to, so it's hard to fit an 88-89 on the earlier cars, I did but it wasn't easy, there is a good writeup on here from Russian kid which tells how to dismantle and repair the switch. There are no new switches available, you have to repair the switch or find a good used one, the main problem is the low beam contact burns out on these cars, if you fix the switch, I would highly recommend you do the relay modification for the headlights, this lets relays handle the current instead of the switch contacts. most Honda steering wheels that are pre airbag will fit the factory column, with the teg wheel you have to do some shaving down of the back of wheel or it will rub the trim, I have a first generation wheel, which is in my personal opinion, one of the best looking wheels, other then the S cars wheels, it fit with no modification at all, if you have cruise on your car, and you want a wheel without it, you will need to find a junkyard car with the horn contact, it attaches with a single screw after you remove the cruise control slip ring,
Last edited by lostforawhile; 01-13-2015 at 10:34 PM.
I have an 88 accord dx. It's carb number is ed07e. And I am at the junkyard looking for a replacement carb to rebuild. I can only find an 89 accord with a carb ed07g. Here is my question. If my stock carb is an ed07e, will it work to pull an ed07g and rebuild that and install it on my car? I'm working with a string shoe budget and know I should just get a Weber. But this is where I'm at now.
Can I make this work with little issues?
I will eventually get a Weber for it later after taxes.
Thanks in advance.
Last edited by Bass'doutLx-i; 01-17-2015 at 02:11 PM. Reason: I accidentally hit enter before I was done
Do you have to pass a smog test?
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
Not the cali smog test. But I do have a tail pipe emissions once a year.
I need to find a carb for an 87 accord lx just bought the car and it has idle and start and stalling issues there was a 10 mm bolt jammed in the carb to hold the flap open
Does anyone know what this is/does? I changed all three belts on my (86 carbed DX) and eliminated the manifold water lines, did the temp sender relocation thing also. The box/relay now makes a bad clicking noise when the car is running but not with just the key on. Best I can find from searching is that it may have something to do with the AC system. I tried a jy one yet it did the same thing. It never made this fast clicking noise before the belt change and mani water line removal. Side note... I have the Weber 32/26 if that helps at all.
it's in the engein bay and attach with a ten mm bolt to the left wheel well.
I think I finally got it... If it's plugged in I get power to the efe plug, but my Weber isn't useing the efe system. So I just unplugged the relay and if all goes well I'll remove it when I remove unused wires in the engine bay. If not, I'll plug it back in and keep on searching for more info about it.
I am in the process of searching for this answer, but in case someone can answer before I find it; will an '89 Fuel Injected A20A3 Cylinder Head work on an '86 Fuel Injected BT block? Thank you
Not sure if this helps or not but it's kinda like what your asking, only in reverse I think
https://www.3geez.com/forum/general-e...a3-swap-s.html Sorryhere's the link
Hahaha, you're funny. Okay so it sounds like I can put an '89 A20A3 head on my '86 BT block. The blocks are identical, correct? Only thing different are the contents (pistons)?
The 89's intake has dual runners and a 4-2-1 exhaust, where the 86 has single runners and a 4-1 exhaust. Everything I've read on here seams to be that the heads will swap. Intake mani,exhaust and pistons are the only diffrance I've heard of. I have seen where people say the 88-89 may have a slight different cam then the 86-87's.
Hmmm, that could be big, if the computer thinks one thing about the timing but the cam is mechanically different. If need be I'll use the '89 ECM and see. Okay well I'll go ahead and swap them. When I do, I'll post my progress in another head. I really hope I don't waste money on this
ok quick question how do i fill my 1987 honda accord dx hatch carb manual transmission fluid? took off the axle next thing i know the tranny fluid starts leaking out its empty please help this newbie
There is a fill plug next to the right side axle on the transmission housing. Take it out and fill till it starts to trickle out with the car level. Put the plug back in and tighten.
sweet thanks for the help man now i can get this process going and get my bi*** running normal. much help
Just a follow up on the 89 Head on an 86 block, I did it with no issues. Thanks for the help
hey new to the forum. im having idle issues with my 88 accord carbureted. was wondering if you guys could point me in the right direction or help. it runs and drive just fine in gear. not so much when disengaged and no throttle. ruled out vacuum and anti dieseling solenoid already. thinking it could be part of the choke assembly but idk what to check first on that or how. any help is appreciated thanks
New to this forum .... got an 84 accord 1.8 motor ( with manual trans )on engine stand, about to replace all gaskets, new cam and oil pump, weber carb conversion, etc. ..... gonna drop it in a 82 civic ...any posts, threads, how tos, and videos on any of these conversions would be super helpful. I also have both FSM for 82 civic and 84 accord.
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