In the miata world it is common to remove the flaps and fill the holes with jb weld. In this case it will reduce power in the low end, but it should work if you absolutely cant get it to seal. I would be looking for a replacement manifold, stock or b16, if you go that direction.
Okay so I was able to take it apart and found what once was an Oring so after chipping that out I cleaned it up and replaced it with an ac (green) oring, it was the only one I could find that fit the best. I put it all back together and it still leaks there. I might have to get a thicker Oring and try that. It does seem like its leaking less though. Maybe it will seal better when its warmed up.
you can find the right size on mcmaster carr
Well my goal was to pass smog so I put it all back together, replaced a few sensors, reset the timing back to where it was, changed the oil w/filter and air filter and it passed. The idle is still high and it will pulse half way through warmup but I just turned the wheel all the way to one side and that allowed the idle test to be under 1000 rpm and it passed quick. I still am trying to figure out the high idle and the pulsing but otherwise it runs great
Doing the ball joints any tips for doing them.
Originally Posted by HubertTheHonda
Rears pretty easy to do.
The front lowers probably need a press.
Heres a link to the how too https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthre...ower-Balljoint
I think Dr. Snooz does a how to on the fronts if you search him out.
1988 Lxi owner since August 1995
336k miles running strong!
Now running E85.
Oldblueaccord <<< MY YOUTUBE PAGE!
Haven’t been on in awhile. New issue arose with the Prelude. Car dies while driving down the road randomly.
I haven’t replaced the fuel filter yet, did it last year in the summer as well as new injectors, distributor cap and rotor, wires, plugs.
To start, I did the fuel pump. Still dies.
I got another filter but haven’t put it on yet. Gas cap is fine and is holding suction while the pump is running.
With that all being said, the only thing it could be is the filter and or the EGR Valve, right?
I’m gonna replace the filter tomorrow as well as take the EGR Valve off and clean it. Hopefully that should fix the problem, no?
Thanks for reading and I’d love any suggestions or answers anyone could give.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Idk if this is a dumb/newbie question but I've tried Googleing and maybe I'm searching the wrong keywords but what model of transmission Is in an 87 accord
auto or manual?
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthre...des-and-ratios
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthre...nd-Paint-codes
1988 Lxi owner since August 1995
336k miles running strong!
Now running E85.
Oldblueaccord <<< MY YOUTUBE PAGE!
New to the forum, but original owner of 1986 Prelude SI - bought first year out of college. Finally getting it back on road.
Had someone put in new plugs, wires, timing belt, injector o-rings, alternator - got it running good about 89% of time - but would sometimes lack power until high revs - then jump into full power.
Next morning it is dead, turns over but no spark.
I pull distributor cap and get this. Metallic shavings and what appears to be a piece of a retaining ring or similar with a tab - see lower right of pic - this was in distributor cap.
Clean out distributor and install new cap/rotor, as expected no go, but worth a shot for the $.
Anyone recognize this piece? Guessing distributor bearing is shot, but shaft really didn't have much play.
Any other ideas?
Thanks
Last edited by Hokie86Prelude; 04-25-2022 at 05:40 AM.
Doesn't look familiar... whats the other side of the dizzy look like?
It had debris that I cleaned out with air. Sprocket looking thing( forgot name) would turn slighlty until it hit a stop in both directions, don't even remeber if I tried to turn the shaft - but it is connected to cam/motor right? I shouldn't be able to turn that by hand correct?
Almost looks like water got in your distributor and rusted it out from the inside out.
1988 Honda Accord LSDX-I
It would be helpful to take the dizzy off... but yeah there definitely shouldnt have been rust flakes in there
Hi. I have a question about my radiator/cooling system (forgive me for any misuse of terminology…this is my first car in over a decade and I’m trying to fix things myself)…
So, last week I was on my way to work when white smoke/steam came billowing out from my hood. I pulled over, waited a while, and opened my hood and everything was soaking wet. Got the car to work and eventually found a tear in a hose.
I wasn’t able to remove the hose (one of the hose clamps was rusted and i haven’t been able to get a tool on it), so I cut the hose, added an L-shaped hose fitting, attached a short piece of hose, everything is hose clamped and there is no more leak…from that area. HOWEVER,
I drove the car and after about 3 miles the engine started over heating and when I pulled over, waited, and checked under the hood coolant was basically spitting out from the radiator cap. I am unable to find a compatible radiator cap to replace this original-the rubber stopper is larger on this original than any replacements I can get at o’reilly’s or autozone. Regardless I bought a radiator cap that has a release lever on it and so far that has been working well. HOWEVER,
I can hear coolant spitting out from the radiator cap once I’ve stopped driving (only driving a few miles)…
I had come across information about this coolant leak repair called “k-seal”…has anyone used this with success? Or will this just destroy my car?
I do have a replacement radiator that I’ve been meaning to install. Should I just install that?
Apologies that this is a lot of information.
There also appears to be a leak coming from the passenger side of the car directly next to the tire. Would that leak be releasing pressure from the radiator? Is the L-shaped hose fitting too drastic of an angle and it’s preventing coolant from moving properly?
There is alot going on with this car that I’m trying to slowly fix when I have the time and money…
Any information would be helpful. Thank you.
Did you properly bleed the coolant system after you replaced the hose and added coolant. If you didnt you would still have air in the system and it can overheat causing your issues.
Download the shop manual from this site or from Snoozes signature and look at the "bleeding the coolant procedure".
1988 Honda Accord LSDX-I
Bleed the coolant, find and fix the other leaks, heat the engine without the radiator cap and watch for bubbles in the radiator, if it bubbles you have a blown head gasket.
Hey guys really dumb question I know but I'm still learning and trying so hard to get my 87 accord back up and running. Would the 2.0l block from a second gen lude be a usable replacement to a stock block? I shot a rod through my block at 3000rmp after a mechanic said it was fine to drive and now I can't find a usable block/engine.
An a20a3 block from a 2nd generation prelude Si should work
Eric
3geez member since October 12, 2000
"All this worldly wisdom was once the unamiable heresy of some wise man." - Henry David Thoreau
A motorad T13 should be the correct replacement cap. If it keeps puking coolant under high speed load the thermostat is stuck closed or the combustion gasses are getting into the cooling system (head gasket, cracked head, cracked block)
Eric
3geez member since October 12, 2000
"All this worldly wisdom was once the unamiable heresy of some wise man." - Henry David Thoreau
What does the rest of the distributor look like? There isn't enough material in the cap to explain that amount of debris. Clean it out and test.
Get a new cap and rotor for tec (not hitachi) and try again. I am baffled how all that shit ended up in your cap
Last edited by POS carb; 08-11-2022 at 05:44 PM.
Eric
3geez member since October 12, 2000
"All this worldly wisdom was once the unamiable heresy of some wise man." - Henry David Thoreau
Does anyone know the exact differences between an A20A1 carbed block and an A20A3 efi block? I know the heads are the same
Actually the blocks are the same it's the heads that are different.
Carb head has two bolt holes for the distributor and efi has three. I think there is a slight difference in the camshaft.
1988 Honda Accord LSDX-I
Cams are negligible at least. Probably the only showstopper is the dizzy mount if you have an efi car
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks