From what I've read, A/C is kinda hard to install with the big black box behind the dash - I think.
As for the power steering: all models have it. Check your belt. If it's bad, replace it. If it's good, spray it with Belt-Ease.
From what I've read, A/C is kinda hard to install with the big black box behind the dash - I think.
As for the power steering: all models have it. Check your belt. If it's bad, replace it. If it's good, spray it with Belt-Ease.
AC will be a lot of work to install. Most people think it's a box that you screw into the dash. It's more like 200 different parts that get installed all over the car. Then another 200 parts get modified to adjust idle to compensate for compressor load, or turn on the cooling fan when the compressor turns on, etc.
And, welcome to the board!
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
when you can take pictures take a pictures or many pictures of the duct that connects the blower on the far right side of the car,to the heater core in the middle of the dash, almost no one here has factory AC delete, and wants to see what the duct looks like, since it won't have an evaporator box
Thank you all, yes I will get pics hopefully tonight for everyone! No problems. Now I am certain its either a bad/loose power steering belt, difficult to turn sometimes and the screaching it all adds up! Thank you everyone for the input and quick responses...look forward to talking with you all in the future.
I figured as much for the a/c was hoping it might have just been a bolt on slightly modified under 400 bucks issue but sounds like mass work and $$$ so nm. Just sweat I guess! lol
While you're working on the PS, change the oil in the system.
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
never done that before, pretty self explanatory? how difficult on a 1-10 scale? changed oil, done brakes, tune-ups, alternator replacement, stuff like that. Is it pretty easy to get to, etc.
Pretty easy. The manual describes how to do it on p. 18-9. The hardest part is figuring out a way of keeping the old fluid from shooting across the street when you start the car.
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
Question here, whenever I have the radio on, along with the front and rear defroster, headlights, my revs go down.
How many amps does the stock one have?
Will 135 amps suffice?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/86-89...#ht_1064wt_941
Is it time for a new alternator?
If so, is the installation simple?
Thanks
Last edited by HON-DUH; 01-03-2011 at 08:12 PM.
When I use anything in my car the idle goes down. Even when I steer and brake. All of my Accords did that...
That's a damn good price for a high output alternator. Last time I tried to get one new, it was over $200-300. It would be much more straightforward than converting to the Legend alternator.
Honestly though, your stock alternator is more than capable of running everything in your car as it is (assuming you don't have some mega-stereo). You might go through all the grounds and battery cables and clean them up, maybe replace some cables. That makes a HUGE difference, and is cheap. But yeah, you will always get a slight drop from the extra load on the alternator.
Last edited by 2ndGenGuy; 01-04-2011 at 02:28 PM.
Yeah, me too, whenever I'm at a red light and I press the brake pedal, my revs go down and the car starts to vibrate a little, it gets annoying...
I have the stock radio with stock speakers, so yeah.
So if I make sure all my cables are ok and if I replace some, my revs should stay constant no matter what I do, correct?
that doesn't sound like an electrical issue, it sounds like your brake booster or it's check valve has a problem, the brake lights don't draw so much current that they would load the alternator, stepping on the brake causes a large change in engine vacuum, if the check valve is ok, there is enough vacuum stored in the booster to not have much effect, but if it's not it would suddenly show the engine a large vacuum drop
Last edited by lostforawhile; 01-04-2011 at 03:26 PM.
Well this is my first car and i want to lower it, i know im going to need coilovers( not going with lowering springs) and shocks and camber kits (to get negative camber) thats all i really need right? Just the main to lower the whole car is coilovers and shocks right?
What type of gauge pillar pod "fits" for my accord..
I want the battery/oil and maybe one more gauge, I need a gauge pod pillar thing.
Okay, at this point I'm seriously asking for someone to hold my hand and walk me through this:
How do you take off the rear bumper? (coupe)
I've read the how-to thread, but it wasn't specific enough and there weren't pictures.
I know about the four screws near the tires, and that once the four 12mm bolts are off the bumper slides back, but I can't find the bolts!
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
i saw camber kits on ebay that claim they will fit an 88 accord and they are $20 or some thing is it true they will work i want to slam and camber wheels like this /\ but i dont know the first thing about camber or how to go about doing this. any help would be verry appreciated i only want the rear cambered.
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