You need to use motor oil. I use Mobil 1 10w-40.Originally Posted by visal911
You need to use motor oil. I use Mobil 1 10w-40.
Fail....
He said tranny fluid...
Its best if you go with honda MTF
He said MANUAL tranny!
Motor oil is fine too.
http://www.d-series.org/forums/1037845-post16.html
honda mtf is not for cars older then 2001. do not use it. the above post is from a guy who builds transmissions for many people including bisimoto. listen to him. unless you dont mind having to rebuild your transmission.
Not really sure what Honda MTF is going break in our transmissions but it sure makes them shift like butter. It seems to smooth out worn and temperamental transmissions as well.
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
why is it that your name so familiar lol
Really shy? Youre the last person that should be pointing out fails. Is your 5 speed swap done yet? Is your b series swap done yet? How about your obd1 conversion? Wait were you able to get the spots out of your windows? Lol dude you ask so many useless questions about absolutely everything that you've ever "decided" to do to your car. Every time I get on here I get a good laugh because its always the same old story with your cars and you've accomplished nothing thus far.
Agh sorry if I offend you Shy, I just felt it needed to be said.
-dan
it wears the bearings out from being to thin. i agree it does shift better on a old trans but the best thing for an old trans is to mix dino oil with syncromesh
the new mtf is like a 0w20 synthictic and our trans call for 10w30, 30w, 10w40
dunno
Interesting. I've noticed that all the new cars seem to spec lighter oils. I wonder if the newer oils are somehow better at lubricating without needing a lot of extra weight. I'm no chemist, but I'm sure happy with Honda MTF.
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
Could you use suspension that's a little longer, and valved for a heavier car, on a lighter car to gain ride height if so desired? if only an inch at most it would still be cool.
Lol none taken :P i don't get mad cause i know its true haha.i've haven't done all those useless things you pointed out haha so no worrys. Im not working right now so its been slow hardly not spending anything on the cars cause i got other shit to worry about. well i glad i make you laugh hahaha and oh yeah FAILlol
How do you remove the heater controls? Not the sliding part, I already have that removed. I've been looking for the past couple of days and could not find anything. Do I need to take the whole dash off?
i guess it was a bad assumption to assume this is a new flame zone being the ask your dumb questions here? It cracks me up... either way for what its worth I use MTL and/or Mobil 1 5w30 in my trans... could be the wrong stuff, but damn it works great! I thought the MTL was a synthetic motor oil with a brass conditioner?
You mean the climate control buttons? Vent/Hi-Lo/Heat/Heat|Def/Defrost/Recirculate/Fresh/Air Conditioning?
1) Remove gauge cover (there is a panel on the back that pops off with two screws holding the entire thing on, and there are several screws behind the buttons along the bottom of the gauges [sunroof, mirror, and headlight/dimmer/defrost switches]).
2) Remove center vents. This part is tricky because they break very easily, and some of the glue joints WILL come apart (this can be fixed easily, though).
3) Two screws above the temperature and fan sliders will get the climate control unit out.
My master cylinder came in today and gonna install it tomorrow. so i went to my car and saw that it had 2 gaskets...is it required to put 2 gaskets or one? unless they put 2 in there im not sure... Help? i really want to take off the engine!
explain.....
Those rubber seals that go around the bore of the cylinder, here the Master cylinder that black rubber seal is for the cylinder but there seems to be another one on the booster in the center. not sure if anyone ever seen that. checked autozone and they don't have it or cannot order it.
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=309873
It fits perfectly, but if all i need is one then it should be okay. just wanted to verify if 2 is required.
cool... good tips there. thanks!
1988 Honda Accord LX Man.
I believe there is only one of those gaskets. I saw it when I replaced my brake booster with a jy unit, and the second time when the master cylinder went bust. It seems to me there is only one of those gaskets
How's your brake fluid color? if it is dark I SERIOUSLY RECOMMEND you flush your lines.
Tell you my story. Darkened fluid is contaminated and if it has too much water in suspension it will corrode brake cylinders and brake lines. I had to replace the master in my wife's camry and when I took it apart it the cylinder bore was pitted in a few places. Did not take apart the one on my 3g but it possibly failed because of the same
Denatured alcohol works fine for cleaning; other fluids (like brake fluid) DEFORM THE RUBBER IN THE BRAKE COMPONENTS (I tried it in old rubber seals in the brake calipers and they expanded quite a bit once exposed to brake fluid.
I got a gallon of denatured alcohol and I circulated it using my vacuum pump. Having an air compressor would be better; alcohol can be forced through the lines and possibly remove more dirt and rust. Over time, the new fluid seems to loosen the crap from the brake lines, so I have had to replace it a couple of times already. I'd rather do that than buying new parts though.
If you have NEVER rebuilt your wheel cylinders I would suggest at least do the front calipers. What I found in mine defied imagination - tons of grime and quite a bit of rust. Those sit at the lowest points in the brake system so they become natural deposits for whatever crap the system produces.
I found this on a fast search on how to flush brake lines and and it seems fine especially for removing the air if you flush the lines using compressed air and alcohol.
http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars...enance/4213448
Hope it helps and sorry for too much wording...
If it ain't broke... I fix it!
How long can I drive with my constant-velocity joint clicking?
apparently you should be all good, and not have to worry about it until it starts clicking when you're driving straight
Thank you very much! I flush the system till i got clear brake fluid and pedal grabs better than my grey coupe. I think the calipers are fine as the car has very low mileage. When i do my SS brake lines and rotor upgrade ill rebuild the calipers. Don't worry about the wording every bit of it is great! To tell you the truth this is the first time I've done this and it feels great to do the work yourself than to pay an arm. I like the Master Cylinder i bought off Rock Auto. it will save you 20 or more dollars at any part store. For the price i paid for i am happy i spent every dollar on it. Dont worry about the wording, every word helps! Thanks again, getting closer to getting this car finish just need the OBD1 Harness, Shift linkage and Engine swap and hello running B18c
When I put the master cylinder on my Mom's 4g, I used two of those seals by accident. The old seal got stuck inside the booster and I didn't realize it. Two seals ended up pushing the master cylinder out farther from the booster. It was far enough that the booster didn't push the bore in far enough to really actuate the brakes. I ended up finding the second seal because I couldn't get the brakes bled. The master cylinder wouldn't push enough fluid through. I tore it down and then realized what had happened.
Long story short, don't use two seals. At least on a 4g.
You can drive for a very, very, very, very long time on clicking CV joints. They will tend to fail by stripping out and no longer moving the car, so you can take them right up to that limit if you want. I got a set from Napa that clattered out of the box. I didn't want to deal with it, so I just drove and drove...and drove. I finally got sick of the racket and changed them out. They tend to get rougher as they get closer to the end. You can kinda feel them slopping around, so that might be the time to replace them.
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
^this
yeah i only used the one it came with. same with the 3g don't put 2 seals on there as it sticks out and the brakes wont grip all the way. Also they dont make it, im not sure if your able to get that seal at the autoparts store since i checked. if they sell a 4g one it could work but told me that it uses a bigger MC cause of a bigger engine.
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