I just bought an eBay CAI for my hatch. It's CARB legal, but it indicates it's for the 90-93 Integra. Will I pass the visual inspection for smog?
I just bought an eBay CAI for my hatch. It's CARB legal, but it indicates it's for the 90-93 Integra. Will I pass the visual inspection for smog?
Oh well... Thanks though!
Im having a hard time getting rhonda to start. the starter checks out good. im stump on where to look now. when i put it in the 3rd position to turn it on nothing happens. i check the fuses. the guy from autozone told me that the alternator can be the problem is this true?
Probably your switch getting tired. If not, then how corroded are your battery cables?
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
LOL. I thought it was the ignition switch!
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
What's the easiest way to find a short in an area of my car's electrical system?
In the morning, my radio (stock) occasionally will work momentarily and stay on for about a minute but then it will short out and not come back on for the rest of the day- it won't work at all when it is warm outside. There is also a short in the green light above the "fresh" button. I originally thought it was burnt out, but I see it flash on sometimes when I start the car, so I know it still works.
What's the easiest way for someone (who is not very experienced) with cars to find the source of this electrical problem?
You're radio is shorting out? Are you replacing fuses every day then? Or does it only work momentarily? Could be a connection issue somewhere..(bad ground or power possibly)
As for the buttons, I think just about all 3geez seem to have that problem. It's not shorting out it's just that the connection for the lights seem to degrade over time, I have this very same issue and also have to fix it. There's a few thread's around here somewhere.. just have to search.
The radio only works momentarily... If it's warm/hot outside (around 80*F and above) the radio won't turn on at all. I don't get how the temperature can affect whether or not the radio works, but it seems it somehow does. The fuse is still good- it never actually blows out, the radio just appears as though the fuse has blown once it goes out. The radio connector is connected fine to the port on the back of the radio, however one of the wires must be stripped or broken somewhere somewhere between the radio and the power source. That, or the radio is just plain faulty...
I'll try doing another search. Most of the stuff I've found so far is a bit more advanced than I understand yet.
I have yet to see any car stereo deck last more than about 10 years. I've come to regard them as a maintenance item. Use them until they develop some strange issue, then throw them away and replace them with something else. I'm not big into spending a fortune on car stereos. Unless you're driving a Maybach, there will be too much road noise to notice if it's audiophile or not. Just get a cheapie from Autozone.
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
get one of the older clarions, or if you find one in good condition, get a pioneer or a blapaunk from the 80's, they last forever, those head units were built to last for decades, not like the cheap crap today, many of the higher end models of those have an aux input, plus they have a tape deck and look period correct in the car, I wouldn't worry about the cd, if you have an aux in, everyone uses digital stuff anyway
stupid q 1: whatis JDM, USDM?
#2:what does blueprinting mean when overhauling engines?
#3:what is porting, when referring to matching carbs or intakes, and how hard is it? how important?
#4: what is difference in downdraft and sidedraft carbs?
#5:CAI? is that cold air intake?
#6:no computer smarts, what is FTW?
#7:how do they "balance" a crank?
thanks in advance, guys, Im a newbie(can you tell?)main query I had: goin way back, I see not much info on 1g tech, I have an 81 & 83 5-spd to replace in kmy 81 hatch, interchangers say only another 81 tran from only a hatch, (no PS) will swap. Saw OFFTHAHOOK's post about it...he wasn't sure why, may have to do with linkage? anyway, I can't tell which is the 81 of the two, they're just copies! My old tran has a num:gk6069841. Nothin on the replacements though. can anyone help?
Last edited by fullmonte44; 07-11-2011 at 06:14 PM.
JDM means Japanese Domestic Market. It refers to cars or parts that are from Japan. USDM is the US. Domestic Market. For example, when we refer to JDM sidemarkers, we mean side markers from a japanese (or new zealand, or several countries really) car.
2. Blueprinting is just a very thorough checking and rechecking of engine specifications. its kind of detailed so thats as far as I'll take it.
3. Porting refers to enlarging head ports (or reshaping, or cleaning up imperfections) and matching to manifolds means porting the manifold an equal amount, to smooth the transition. Think of going straight to a 1" pipe to a 1/2" pipe. You'd have a huge step without a transition.
4. I'm no carb expert (in fact im pretty ignorant of carbs), this one i can't answer.
5. CAI is cold air intake, yes.
6. FTW means for the win. Good answer FTW!
7. To balance a crank, they must remove material to ensure that all the counterweights and pieces of the crank rotate equally fast. Think of a ceiling fan with one really heavy blade. Looks pretty scary.
I know this is a dumb question, but can anyone explain to me HOW to remove the ends on the heater control panel? I've looked in three different service manuals and none of them go into detail on how to remove the slider controls (Hot/Cold & off-High sliders). I feel like an idiot because I cannot seem to figure out how to remove these stupid things! I need to take the heater control panel off so I can readjust the center panel, but these sliders are preventing me from doing so! It can't be that hard can it? Am I missing the trick to removing these little things or are mine just superglued on or something? They do NOT seem to want to come off... (Btw, I have the button version controls)
Last edited by 89HatchbackLxi; 07-19-2011 at 06:06 PM.
Pliers. Pull. Knobs will get damaged.
Hardly. Use soft pliers or break the tips of your fingers.
There's an arrowhead point on the ends of the control rods. The rubber tips are pushed on and they get somewhat deformed when you pull them off. When you put them back on, they will work just fine but will be a little looser than they were before. No one will notice it but you. While you have them off, resolder the LEDs in the climate control push buttons so they work again.
Here's the how-to: https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthrea...heater+buttons
Last edited by Dr_Snooz; 07-20-2011 at 07:58 AM.
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
So, 1988-1989 LX-i's and SE-i's had 120hp (or bhp?) at the flywheel (I believe). Is there any way to estimate the hp/bhp at the wheel of a twenty-three-year-old subject with 180k miles? Where can I find a dyno?
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