I wasn't clear enough on that, it is in the 86-89 accord page on the web store on Chedda's site, not the product page.
1986 - 1989 Honda Accord
I wasn't clear enough on that, it is in the 86-89 accord page on the web store on Chedda's site, not the product page.
1986 - 1989 Honda Accord
I paid him for that kit in specific and i sent him a message with the payment double checking that the bushings would fit our 3gee. I got a straight up no answer and a refund...he told me that they would not fit...So, IDK. Anyone on here using his kit and can verify it fits correctly?
Shaggy
FF II/ETC I
"What's my age again? What's my age again?"
I have two questions..
1. my 1987 honda accords Dx transmission kicks really hard into Drive. how can I fix that?
2. is it possible to replace my engine mounts without taking the engine completely out? I dont wanna have to mess with all those vacuum lines again!
1. When was trans fluid changed last? If its been a while then change it. Use either honda atf-z1 from the dealer or royal purple if u can afford it. Do NOT use dexron
as it says on the dip stick.
2. Yes. A jack under the oil pan(with a piece of wood so u don't damage the oil pan) And just do one at a time with jack closest to which ever one you are working on.
- I feel like a complete idiot asking this, but how do I find the type of engine I have...someone gave me a 5spd '87 Accord LX Sedan and I want to know as much about it before I start work on the car.
- What are the best idiot-proof bolt-on upgrades for performance and handling? I am going to be replacing the broken clutch with a mechanic friend (I know nothing about this car)...are there any upgrades I can do while that area is all disassembled?
- What do I do for exterior looks? What are the best cheap rims for this deep blue color? Also, could I have your guys opinions on plasti-dipping the roof black? Maybe the trunk and back bumper as well?
You can find out what engine you have by looking for the engine code stamp like this http://asia.vtec.net/topics/engcode1.jpg
Judging by the looks of the picture I'd say your car has been sitting for a while. The best upgrade for you right now would be a tune up. Change the oil, spark plugs....
For cheap rims I'd say buy used rims off of Craigslist. Plasti dipping the roof wouldn't be a bad idea. Looks like the roof gotten eaten up by the sun pretty badly.
Is there a place I can start a temporary build thread until I can get foundation membership?
^ Start an "update thread" in "pictures & videos" under appearance.
From the description: "All users may view and reply to threads, but a Foundation Membership is required to create a build thread."
^^^ And it's totally worth it.
I love your dash, BTW. Join the Foundation and put up some good pics of your car for us.
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
I just bought an 89 accord dx. It seemed to run pretty good i drove it from the point of purchase about 70miles to my house on the freeway i realized that my 5th gear wasnt working, and about a block from home the temp gauge spiked. (Pretty positive i resolved this issue)
Also my idle is extremely "odd" its just fluctuating alot, ill have my foot on gas and completely off the clutch before i begin to move, and when i shift gears acceleration time is extremely slow as well as my rpms will jump then decrease to where theu should be when changing gears....
When the car is running it shakes feels like its gonna stall?
Also i had trouble starting it tonight but its only 52 degrees Fahrenheit out, so that a carb issue?
Any thing that can point me to the diagnoses of these problems and how to fix would be greatly appreciated also the quicker the better as to i have class Saturday and no way to get there!
Lucy/ Kyle these carbs are finicky, start by removing air cleaner and check for damage or loose vacuum hose, assloads of them.
Spray down the linkages and moving parts with wd40. Coolant sensors control a lot of what you describe as well so low coolant and burnt up thermostat can affect those
first off i can learn quickly and can follow instructions well but i am current;y not to knowledgeable about cars but im learning....
there was a loose screen possibly a sensor not 100% sure though, it was on the bottom of the radiator and i was most positive that thats where was my leak. i got that all taken care of and it was staying cool. but after about a 5 mile drive at around 50mph it did not read hot but i could here the coolant (premixed 50/50) bubbling, got a a new rad cap and you could still here a bubbling noise but not near as loud or long...
BUT this morning i had a nice little puddle of coolant under my car kind of underneath the overflow.... and i could see coolant sitting on my bleed valve/nut but the bleeder was tight?
If you overfill the coolant reservoir, coolant will bubble out the top and make a mess on the driveway like you describe. If the temps are cold, then any coolant left on the bleed bolt from bleeding will not evaporate overnight. You may have fixed the leak and are dealing with residual issues now. Just keep an eye on your levels to make sure they aren't going down.
Your drivability problems sound like a bad clutch to me, but it's hard to tell from your description. You could have some other things going on, including a bad head gasket.
I'd say try to relax. From your description, it doesn't sound like anything is badly wrong with the car. It will keep running enough to get you to class. Learn how to troubleshoot and test for problems before spending money. That will save you an enormous amount of money in the long run. Always start with the simple, cheap stuff and move toward the more expensive when you fix things. Also, download the manual and read it thoroughly before opening the toolbox. Make sure you know everything you'll be doing and every part you'll need before you start a repair. Otherwise, you'll end up frantically calling around for obscure parts on a Sunday afternoon, desperately trying to get your car running enough to get to work Monday morning. (Can't tell you how many times I've done that.)
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
I have a 1987 Honda Prelude SI. My injectors are not getting any signal to fire. I have fuel going to the fuel rail and spark at the spark plugs. Does anyone have any recommendation on how to fix this issue?
So im rebuilding my carb today, so far going smoothly but after carb is finished i plan on flushing my fluids just, plugs wires regular tune up stuff.....
But is there anyway i can look at my gears or gearbox without removing the transmission?
Attempting to get a proper diagnosis of the no fifth gear
The ten mm bolts on the black cover on the side of the transmission can be removed. Fifth gear is housed inside it
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Shaggy
FF II/ETC I
"What's my age again? What's my age again?"
Bcrumbley, your ecu may be fried. That's what controls the signal for the injection system
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Shaggy
FF II/ETC I
"What's my age again? What's my age again?"
The trans oil should be drained before looking in there correct?
Pull one of the plugs off of an injector and check to see if there is 12 volts on one of the wires while the key is in the run position.
If there is then you have a sensor or ecu issue, if there's not then you have a blown fuse or bad wire somewhere.
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