its not regular grease, its a special moly based high temp grease, they usually sell packets of it at the parts store counters, just tell them you need the grease to repack cv jointsOriginally Posted by 2drSE-i
its not regular grease, its a special moly based high temp grease, they usually sell packets of it at the parts store counters, just tell them you need the grease to repack cv joints
Does anyone know what the compression is suppose to be in our cars? I have the 1.8 carbed. I havent been able to find any info in the manual on this. I did a compression test today and came up with this.
#1. 150psi
#2. 160psi
#3. 165psi
#4. 160psi
your compression is good. they all have to be within 20% from eachother
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
is it worth rebuilding a over heated engine? this dude told me that it will never run the same but how about i bore it over and put new parts in it... do you guys think its worth it? when i ran the car it had no problems in the block like knocking or anything just blew smoke. i don't wanna spend money on parts if the block is no good... if i get a good answer then maybe i can start ordering parts asap to get the block and head finished thanks everyone for any input!
these blocks are tough as shit, whoever told you it would never run right again is an idiot, you may not even have to rebore anything, the bores may be just fine just need some honing. if you tore an engine apart and rebuilt everything,why would it never run right again?
well i figured it would run but he said no so it got me thinking i was like 90% positive it would till he said it wont so 10% was like "uh did i misread something???0_0". i even bet him $100 or even his truck that ill be able to get it running right. So he chickened out cause i was sure it would. Thanks Tim i needed someone to help me on that. Tomorrow im gonna tear the block down in pieces and send the block in for work as well as the crank and connecting rods. Thanks once again.
with motors that are cast iron blocks & alloy heads, it tends to be just the head &/or gasket that fails when they're over heated. bottom ends are usually fine so i've found.
the head is what im worried about...gonna check the inside of the block tomorrow and see how bad it is.
oh also another question, how do i get the head and block look like "new"? do they sand blast it or repaint them?
they usually hot tank iron blocks, once everything is stripped off of the block, the machine shop can tank it, don't try this with an aluminum block like a civic lol, the old engine rebuild shop here had a ricer come in insisting that it's safe to hot tank an aluminum block so they did, they gave him the remains and told him to pound sand. These old iron closed deck blocks will take a lot before they are damaged beyond repair, I can't say the same for the disposable blocks they make now
Well, if the block is cracked, the crank scored and the head warped beyond shaving, then it will be pretty hard to get it running right. Just depends on how badly it was overheated and how severely it was thrashed in that condition. I'm always impressed at the power of idiots to destroy things.
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
the block doesn't show any signs of cracks on the outside. the freeze plugs are still intact and no signs of leakage. the head isn't crack either. can't remember if they ran the car and then it shut off on them and wouldn't turn on. can't remember. im with you on the idiot part...probably someone that didn't know anything about cars. IMO everyone that owns or have a car should at least know the basics of car. Im anxious to know the internals condition, i couldn't find a 12 spline socket for the Flexplate bolts i mean i found some but i really only need one.
i am selling a 87 accord carb engine and trans with racing headers on it with 181,xxx miles and still a strong clutch in it. 300 obo
wrong section...
I saw some rear cupholders in a 3G at the junkyard yesterday... I would have got them since they matched my Hatch's interior, but I wasn't sure they'd fit my hatch. Are the rear cupholders compatible with all 3G's? I didn't know they existed since my hatch just has empty side pockets there. I desperately need some form of cup holders for my car, and if they have to be in the back of the car rather than up front in the console, thats fine with me. So, anyone know if they'll fit a hatch?
Rear cup holders? I've never heard of them. Post pictures! They're probably aftermarket.
Crud, I thought they were a coupe option. Well then, I'm gonna go back and pick them up as soon as I get a chance. The lid of the pocket area opens to reveal the cupholders inside, the same color as the interior and everything. They did a pretty good job matching & fitting them if they were custom/aftermarket.
Last edited by 89HatchbackLxi; 04-02-2012 at 12:32 AM.
Stupid question: do both front wheels spin or is it just one?
They all spin? if you mean which ones drive the wheels, both front wheels do. but as with any car with a open diff, the wheel with the least resistance is going to spin if you try to do a burnout
Last edited by A18A; 04-02-2012 at 06:17 AM.
How many lights are affected by the "dimmer switch going bad"? A couple of nights ago my dash suddenly went out, and I just realized last night that none of my corner lights or tail lights work - only my head lights and brake lights. None of my dash lights up except for the two (three w/ a/c) selected vent positions on my climate control (nawwwwwwwmean?).
hay i have a 1983 accord hb and i wanted to know what newer honda sway bars will work on my car any info will help thanks
see if addco is still in buisness they make the high performance bars for the older cars
thats not the dimmer switch,thats the switch for the headlights or the fuse, you have power that comes into the switch,then it splits for high low beam and then on to the four headlight fuses, the same feeder wire also splits off for the running light position this runs all of your tailights marker lights etc, and the power to the dimmer circuit comes from that position on the headlight switch,if the taillights don't come on but the headlights do, the issue is in the switch, make sure it's not the fuse for the running lights also, after power comes off of that position it comes into the fuse for the circuit.
Last edited by lostforawhile; 04-03-2012 at 12:39 AM.
My head lights both work (high and low beam), and so do my brake lights. None of my dash lights up and my corner and tail lights do not work, including all side markers and license plate lights. The clock does not dim when I turn my head lights on, either, and the buckets go back down in the second position when I turn my head lights off (they usually stay up until you turn them completely off). Still not the dimmer switch? Why would the head lights work and the dash not if it's the control arm that went bad?
Wait, nevermind. I understand what you meant now. I will check the fuse - hopefully that's the problem.
re: Have a quick question? Ask it here!
Hello, I don't know if this is the right place but here goes!
victim-88 Honda accord- carburetor
problem-mystery to me please help!
The car will start but will only continue to run if you constantly keep feathering (pumping) the gas pedal.... you can actually even drive it (very miserably) if you keep pumping the gas! It's did this one other time, I let it set for 3 days, drove it again for couple months, But now it won't come out of it! I believe it's getting fuel because it will run if constantly pumping it! I AM LOST I bought the thing for cheap beater car but have grown dependent on it and need it running any help much appreciated!
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