Hello all! I have a 1989 Accord LX-i Sedan that currently has no power steering because when I bought the car it had no bolt or adjuster bolt to connect the pump to the bracket. Looking online of course, all parts are discontinued as I assumed. Any suggestions? Or any info on bolts that could potentially work as opposed to OEM spec bolts?
Yeah, you're going to have to experiment. Either pull the bolts off one laid up in a yard or fabricate/Macgyver something up.Originally Posted by Jsparkman
(Why does the forum randomly log me out when the page is reloaded?)
I thought about running wires from the batt , straight to the fuel pump to bypass everything. Then this ECT sensor issue , I thought about running its wires from the sensor straight to the ECU, then I started thinking more and more about just everyway to bypass every system that keeps us from starting our cars or our cars running right because of a relay, or some other overcomplicated circuit full of lockout switches and crap wiring material. Is this a good idea? Lets say we do toggle switches for ignition, fuel and toggle the starter. Like a race car. Good idea?
As far as the fuel pump relay its there for safety in a car accident, so unless just for testing, NEVER just bypass it.
1988 Lxi owner since August 1995
336k miles running strong!
Now running E85.
Oldblueaccord <<< MY YOUTUBE PAGE!
If the fuel pump is the only one you see being a problem then what about a 12v lead, spliced into the 12v that the switch normally feeds the pump and so i can just force 12v to it in short bursts or short length durations. I get some fuel cut at higher RPMS even though everything is new on the car , I was hearing about more crap getting in the way of the fuel pump signal so , the only thing im not sure about is the fuel pressure regulator is old and its vacuum operated I believe. Forcing 12v to the pump is the same as forcing full PSI on the system right? Is that ever really bad on anything? Im not above only using it to guarantee fuel pump power during starting but if it fixes high rpm fuel cut too, or I notice a power increase , would it hurt the system to have it fully primed on its full psi? And forget about the safety aspect. If I wanted a car for safety , id have bought a volvo. If I get an any accident at all, its probably an instant death, so who cares. Free cremation. Will it hurt the car?
Voltage at the ignition switch was 12v when the key is on. While cranking though it drops below 10. Hovers between 9.8 and 10.2 while cranking. Even seems to drop the longer it cranks off the battery. Testing the voltage at the fuse when I got the car to run on a cold start, after cleaning my ignition switch contacts(even though its not even 2 yr old), was 11.7 at the 40amp coil fuse while running. That same voltage while cranking hot across the fuse is in millivolts. The voltage at the switch while cranking is below 10. My optima battery is about 4 years old. On their website it says it should last about 4 at most under the texas heat. It still cranks really strong though and never has given me issues.
I think you seriously mistake what "lock outs" these cars have. If anything at all turns off an output such as ignition or fuel, it's because an input is out of range, the input being what it uses to map it's fuel output.
Just picked a new exhaust system for my 86 Accord LX big ol fart can unfortunately but I need to do it, my muffler fell off classic the thing rotted out. I got this off a buddy who had a 3rd gen accord which was unfortunately totaled a year ago (moment of silence) however im having a hard time figuring out of this thing is going to fit or not.
Just wondering if anyone has done something similar to this thing, its about 124" inches from the tip to the flange which i think should fit given the overall length is 179" on the 4 door model
PS, I think I uploaded the picture properly
Don't mind the rc cars on the floor and the mess everywhere I own a datsun its that things fault
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