Will probably fit, don't know if it will rub, I'd guess not. Tires about 1.5" too tall though.
Will probably fit, don't know if it will rub, I'd guess not. Tires about 1.5" too tall though.
I imagine that would have a pretty weird looks.Originally Posted by Treehore
Is there any aftermarket light options all the way around (besides headlights) or maybe off a different car. I'm looking for the trunk mounted taillights on my 88'DX coupe. Maybe taillights too I'm not too happy with the old school red and orange
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There are no aftermarket options for lights around the car. This is an 80s car so old school red and orange is what you get. There have been some people to convert their tail lights to LED, not just replacing the bulb but making a board with multiple LEDs in a pattern.
1988 Honda Accord LSDX-I
Hi all, Which is your Go-to brand on gaskets? I'm looking to do a full engine gasket replacement, rockauto only offers the Apex branded gasket set. I checked autozone, which can ship Fel-Pro for $30 more. (For an '89 4d LX-i)
*edit steering clear from autozone**
Last edited by TableMilk; 01-21-2024 at 10:55 AM.
Felpro head gasket for sure.
1988 Honda Accord LSDX-I
I have a 87 Honda Accord LXi. It drives completely fine. Every once in a while I'll turn over the key and there will be no turnover at all. All the lights will come on and everything but it just won't start. Sometimes I'll wait for like 5 minutes and it'll be completely fine. My battery terminal is clean and connected. Starter or ignition system problem?
I have a 1986 LXI Hatchback that I'm trying to remove the center mounted dash clock on so I can tinker with it. I've taken off the bezel and the 2 screws on either side, but I can't figure out how to remove it? Is there another screw? I really hope I don't have to remove the whole dash for this😅
Nvm, it's just a really tight fit. I had to pry it out with a plastic screwdriver but it's out now💪
Anyone know the best make/model alternator for an 86-87 Accord DX/LX? Rockauto fucked me sideways with an AC Delco one, it doesn't fit despite saying it's for a DX/LX and the part number matching up.
AND NO, I AM NOT BUYING A REMAN.
HondaPartsNow apparently still stocks new OEM Denso ones. Last time I used that site though they claimed to have new radiators still and then told me they were DC'd after I placed an order and refunded me.
Last edited by RI86DX; 03-15-2024 at 09:45 AM.
Idk, buy a regulator, hell you could buy one for literally any car and just run wires, all they are is 4 diodes. Only other thing that's going to be bad on an alternator is the bearing, unless the windings are broke, then it's totally screwed. Only thing wrong with buying a reman is the price you pay for a core with a new bearing and regulator, so do it yourself.
If you have an OEM alternator i would rebuild it before replacing it.
1988 Honda Accord LSDX-I
Anyone have a link/guide to hooking up Cruise Control on an 89 Accord LX w/ the Weber 38/38 Carb installed?
Anyone have a link/guide for setting up an idle boost/assist for 89 Accord LX w/ the Weber 38/38 installed?
Just hook the vacuum lines up somewhere, the cruise cable is attached to the throttle pedal. If it worked before it should still work.
What are you talking about? You gave that up when you installed a 38/38, that carb is lucky to have a choke. Just turn the idle up to where it doesn't die with the AC and headlights on, if it's automatic then you might have to make sure it's also ok when it goes into drive. You might need to babysit it when it's cold.
Ah, yeah. Ive found some posts where people have used aftermarket Idle solenoids mounted to be switched on manually to assist with idle when the AC is on, so thats what I plan on doing in the near future.
Okay, hi everybody, I read how to start a new thread, but I can't find it again. It's basically this now, this is an '87 Accord LXI mfi 2.0 liter (actually like 1995cc but anyway) , BTW how does one find ones own replies? I thought it posted but I can't find it anywhere. Good thing I made a copy to my email.I started this so the new guys can ask newbie questions ...I know it's not always easy being the new guy.
About the engine, it's acting like it's really cold I'm not sure if the injectors are priming at startup. I thought it was the winter cold but it's still acting like it's cold in August in southern Texas. In March I was running the cobwebs out of the car that had been parked most of the winter, and it seemed pretty good but it had a hard start after it was parked at the dollar store for over an hour...
Let me just say, it's really hard to start, but once it gets going it runs great, and then it starts right up again if and only if the engine is pretty hot.
(I've got a meat thermometer taped and insulated down to the radiator hose coming out of the engine and it likes to run around 170 F). I got some banjo bolts with the pressure tap on top to do a pressure test on the fuel rail, it all checks out at 36psi, right where it should be.
It always had such a perky start, it really went south after I changed the fuel filter. I thought it was about time and I had just replaced the fuel pump, and I'm worried that I've blown a lot of trash into the injectors. Also, I can't find what I did with the original banjo bolts, see the ones I ordered from Amazon are for brake lines, so the jets may be too small and the engine may be starving. Just got a lot of tracking to do.
Paradoxically it also is acting like a car that's either in vapor lock or is flooded. I've got one f those remote starter guns that you clip onto the starter and the positive battery terminal and I just wanted to look at the engine turning over without it starting, so I pulled out the fuse to the injectors and was cranking it when it started right up! WOAH! (That is to say that the car was running well on fumes with the injectors shut down, I even tried a kludge for this ()Well, it seems like when it's being stubborn I can smell the unburned gas at the exhaust pipe, I've got a hot enough spark, and the compression always used to be good I'll check it out again. Ventilating an engine used to involve pulling the spark plugs and cranking it,but I want to keep the spark plug action to a minimum because the threads may be a little worn and they're set at really odd angles.
The old guys who work on cars say that it's wetting the tips of the spark plugs. I want to make a jig to test out the injectors like a mock-up of the intake manifold. I just recently replaced all the injectors during the pandemic, but that was only about 6000 miles ago. I did briefly expose hte car's electrical system to battery charger voltage while the car was on and I hope I haven't zapped the ECU. I want to make sure that the ECU is running the injectors. Since the fuel rail is on a flexible hose/ line I might be able to bench test it right on the car.
Oh, BTW, what's the value in ohms of the injector resistors? I want to test each injector individually with a safe level of current.
Last edited by Ursula87Kludge; 08-11-2024 at 07:07 AM.
Sorry your experience with rock auto isn't working out... I've just funneled (almost) everything through AutoZone. Bought a reman alternator from them in 2004 and never looked back, although I've only put 60k miles on it since. It's stood up to some abuse.
Yeah I thought it was a bad starter too. Got stuck in a Walmart parking lot, did the trick of bumping the starter casing while my mom cranked the key, and it came right up. (I used the rubber handle on a 24in breaker bar to do the bumping, pool cue style.). That made me think it was a bad connection inside the solenoid so I took the whole starter off (pretty easy, about 4bolts). Tested it at AutoZone and they said it was just fine. I said, how much is a reman? It was a decent price so I went ahead and replaced the starter with a new one, the guys probably thought I had rocks in my head, but I didn't want any phantom problems coming back. I installed the new one and put the old one on a shelf in the garage. Several months later it did the same thing. It was the spade clip to the low power side that actuates the solenoid that was loose. I tightened the clip with pliers (Gently!) and so far so good.
You might buy one of those remote starter guns (two alligator clips and a trigger) and try out the starter from the positive battery terminal, if you get a perky start then you know it's somewhere in the starter circuits .
Last edited by Ursula87Kludge; 08-17-2024 at 03:26 AM.
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