Oil Filter Base Mount O- Ring/Gasket Replacement EFI

[Bluntman]

New base mount o-ring/gasket, oil pressure sending unit and oil filter.

[Bluntman]

After removing intake tubing and air filter box, remove the oil filter, and then remove the oil pressure sending unit on top of base mount (you need to remove it to get to the top bolt on the oil filter base mount), you can see it from the top looking between the intake manifold runners.

[Bluntman]

From the top with a 15/16th open end/closed end wrench remove the oil pressure sending unit(this is why the air filter box is removed). The open end/ closed end wrench is great because it is a tight spot and there maybe some wrench flipping. But it's not so bad.

[Bluntman]

Now from underneath with the oil filter and the oil pressure sending unit out of the way you can get a straight shot at all 3 bolts with a 10mm socket and a short extension. You will have to tug on the base mount once the bolts are out to free it loose. My o-ring/gasket pretty much stuck to the engine block and was very hardened from age, so I carefully worked it off with a razor blade.

[Bluntman]

Once it was out it was time for a cleaning and then blowing it out with compressed air. For cleaning what actually worked well was Simple Green and a toothbrush, and then followed by Brakleen to get rid of the Simple green and oily film, Then blow it all out with compressed air.

[Bluntman]

With the oil filter base mount cleaned up I installed the new o-ring/gasket by adding a couple of small dabs of Ultra Black RTV silicone just to hold it in place so as not to slip when installing in the tight spot you have to work in. I also put on a new o-ring on the oil pressure sending unit, it did not come with one, but I had some. Then put it all back together in reverse and you are done.

[lostforawhile]

I have to add, while it's out, you need to remove and clean the oil pressure regulator valve, a number of people here have had them stick, and if it does, the oil pump can generate enough pressure to blow off filters,blow out seals, and do other damage. you need to carefully clamp the base in a vise, protect the soft aluminum!!! now it takes a large hex key to break loose the spring cover, be careful so nothing flies out, remove the cover, now remove the spring, and carefully slide out the valve, it will probably be covered in varnish looking deposits. use some crocus cloth, or some fine scotchbrite, to carefully polish the valve, now clean the valve in soapy water to remove grit and thoroughly dry it, coat it with clean engine oil, and reinstall the valve in the filter housing, next reinstall the spring, put some blue loctite on the threads of the hex cover, and reinstall it, you're done!

[MessyHonda]

sticky material

[Dr_Snooz]

Good write up. Definitely should be a sticky. The only thing is that the oil sender is a standard pipe taper fitting. You should put some liquid gasket on it and tighten to 13 ft-lbs. The o-ring is probably not doing any good.

[lostforawhile]

Good write up. Definitely should be a sticky. The only thing is that the oil sender is a standard pipe taper fitting. You should put some liquid gasket on it and tighten to 13 ft-lbs. The o-ring is probably not doing any good.

it's 1/8-BSPT not standard, standard is 1/8 NPT, if you screw in a standard thread it will damage the threads. they make adapters if you want to add a line for an oil pressure gauge, summit, jegs, etc all carry it, or you can get it much cheaper from some place like MSC. you need a 1/8 BSPT male to 1/8 NPT female adapter

[Dr_Snooz]

it's 1/8-BSPT not standard, standard is 1/8 NPT, if you screw in a standard thread it will damage the threads. they make adapters if you want to add a line for an oil pressure gauge, summit, jegs, etc all carry it, or you can get it much cheaper from some place like MSC. you need a 1/8 BSPT male to 1/8 NPT female adapter

Well if we're going to get technical, then per the Honda manual, it's "British Standard Pipe Taper."

The point is that you should use pipe dope or Teflon tape.

[lostforawhile]

Well if we're going to get technical, then per the Honda manual, it's "British Standard Pipe Taper."

The point is that you should use pipe dope or Teflon tape.

permatex liquid pipe thread sealer, comes in the little white tube, best stuff on earth, it's the only thing the FAA allows to be used on airplanes. I wouldn't use teflon tape on anything in the car, it comes apart eventually from oil. It's actually banned for use on aircraft because the little pieces of teflon tape end up in the oil system, plus it had a tendency to leak

[Dr_Snooz]

I should pick up some thread sealer. I keep hearing bad things about Teflon. I have about 8 rolls of it sitting around, so I keep using it.

[lostforawhile]

I should pick up some thread sealer. I keep hearing bad things about Teflon. I have about 8 rolls of it sitting around, so I keep using it.

teflon is for sinks ,not engines,the reason the FAA won't let us use it, is it was never meant for engines in the first place.

[Bluntman]

The o-ring I put on the oil pressure sending unit worked out perfectly, no leaks at all. So all is good.

[lostforawhile]

this is the stuff I was talking about, throw your teflon tape in the trash. a little of this goes a long way.

[Bluntman]

Yes I agree that is very good stuff.

[Bluntman]

Been 4 years had to do it yesterday. couldnt go a few miles without it dripping on the exhaust and smoking big time. All is good now am so happy. It was gonna catch damn fire. i was surprised it went in 4 years.

[Bluntman]

Oil dye and a UV light that u can get at NAPA, Oreillys etc. works great also for tracing leaks.

[Bluntman]

Engine Oil Dye Blacklight Test - YouTube