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Thread: replacing a hard line...

  1. #1
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    replacing a hard line...

    okay so today i had a small electrical fire and it caught the brake line on fire too and there is now a hole in it...

    Its the line from the prop valve going to the body of the car. How much of a bitch are those to replace? its leaking right under the prop valve... im thinking of going ghetto and getting some of the make it urself line and cut it and just replacing the section thats leaking... lmk...

    Quote Originally Posted by CAH View Post
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    Re: replacing a hard line...

    sounds like there was a lil ghetto going on there already?
    Nothing wrong with a homemade line as long as it is proper ferrel fittings or real flare nuts and steel line.
    They sell the line stock at most good parts houses just for that purpose, replacing rusted lines and such .. or where people wire tie stereo amp wires and such to brake lines, or use a brake line to ground something..

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    Re: replacing a hard line...

    lol, so the electrical fire caused the hole or the hole cause the break fluid to leak and ignite?

    replacing a line isn't hard, you could probably find the line at the junkyard if you didn't want to do it yourself.
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    Re: replacing a hard line...

    Im betting the leaky line caused the fire personally.
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    Re: replacing a hard line...

    i didnt even know brake fluid was flammable lol

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    Re: replacing a hard line...

    Quote Originally Posted by A18A View Post
    i didnt even know brake fluid was flammable lol
    DOT 3 average flashpoint is around 250 degrees

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    Re: replacing a hard line...

    i think you mean the wet boiling point is near 250 for dot3... that's not an indication of it's flammability just when it will start to boil. brake fluid is flammable but not explosive flammable like gasoline. it's a slow burn, almost like if you've ever used a REAL lantern with fuel oil.

    it can be a pain to put out i can tell you that ha! but with a persistent leak and heat source combined with a spark from some wiring or even if you started a small electrical fire near it, it would burn.
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    Re: replacing a hard line...

    Flashpoint is the temperature at which the fumes and substance could ignite if given a source of ignition, such as an exhaust pipe or glowing red under fused wire, or spark.

    It is not unusual, well it is , but brakes can catch on fire just from extreme use. It would be around the caliper and attached hoses though.
    MSDS data...
    Appearance: Liquid. Amber.
    Odor: Mild Odor.
    Boiling Point/Boiling Range: >210 °C (> 410° F) @ 760 mm Hg
    Freezing Point/ Melting Point: -50 °C (-58 °F)
    Flash Point: 121 °C (249.8 °F) PMCC
    Auto-Ignition: 310 °C (590 °F)
    Flammability: OSHA/NFPA Class IIIB combustible liquid.
    Relative Density: 1.05
    Solubility (Water): Soluble in water
    Last edited by 2oodoor; 07-29-2010 at 09:03 AM.

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    Re: replacing a hard line...

    i thought you were talking about this number

    Dry boiling point Wet boiling point
    DOT 3 205 °C (401 °F) 140 °C (284 °F)


    didn't realize the flashpoint was that low, either way with an ignition source like a spark or an electrical fire would definitely cause brake fluid to burn, lol.
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    Re: replacing a hard line...

    nice roodoo for looking at the MSDS , most people dont think of it , i always look at it now b/c of my chemistry background. what also can affect the boiling point of the brake fluid is how much water is absorbed (hence never use a old bottle that was not sealed up right) adding water can lower the boiling point of the fluid and if i remember brake fluid is very very hydroscopic / hydrophillic. i haven't looked at it but the DOT5 or 6 i really dont kjnow what number there up to now , but a consideration is switching over to a brake fluid that is silicone based, it def would not have the same flammability issues with normal brake fluid.

    oh and just to edit here the flash point of most volatile fluids is misunderstood by most people. simply put you alllways have a vapor layer on top of a liquid , this is what makes gas very flammable, same probably goes with brake fluid
    Last edited by gp02a0083; 07-29-2010 at 10:26 AM.

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    Re: replacing a hard line...

    Quote Originally Posted by 2drSE-i View Post
    Im betting the leaky line caused the fire personally.
    might be. but regardless is a long ass line. from the top left of the prop valve to where ever.... i dono what caliper it goes to.


    and ghetto wireing? not really, i solder and crimp all my shit pretty well esp with my computer background. shit its prob an aftereffect of all the damn oil i still have in my engine bay.

    Quote Originally Posted by CAH View Post
    pullin up turbo spoolin fast lookin fly like a 3g like a 3g like a 3g

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    Re: replacing a hard line...

    LOL didn't see anything about ghetto wiring, but hey the wooden hood prop ?
    Hopefully you get the line resolved soon, as well as the cause of the mishap.

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    Re: replacing a hard line...

    you said no ghetto but then you said crimp... hmmm.
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    Re: replacing a hard line...

    hey my hood prop is cool okay! rofl

    and crimping aint ghetto. the twisties are ghetto hahaha

    Quote Originally Posted by CAH View Post
    pullin up turbo spoolin fast lookin fly like a 3g like a 3g like a 3g

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    Re: replacing a hard line...

    if you say so.
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  16. #16

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    Re: replacing a hard line...

    If used one of these:

    Your crimps are ghetto.
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    Re: replacing a hard line...

    ehh well i guess they are ghetto by you. ive seen some fully built rides using those.


    and us usually gauges im using those for haha.

    Quote Originally Posted by CAH View Post
    pullin up turbo spoolin fast lookin fly like a 3g like a 3g like a 3g

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