I'm just gonna get a camel pack and strap it to the back of the driver's seat.![]()
I'm just gonna get a camel pack and strap it to the back of the driver's seat.![]()
"The Future is Unwritten" -Strummer
"speed costs money, so gaffer tape and cable ties will suffice"-Peasant Tuning
Argh, so many issues. I need to swap in that rebuilt with all those delicious accessories. Car wouldn't start yesterday and had jump it with my friend's Jeep. (I'm jealous that he could fit a whole other engine under his hood, its so bare with a V6 and 4WD) We had the world's shortest jumper cables. He had to literally pull nose to nose just to make the connection. I didn't start the car in about 1 week. The battery is new and they jacked into it at the shop with a high end charge station and said it was healthy. I metered it when it was dead and it was at 7 volts
I didn't leave the lights on or anything so I'm not sure why it drained so quick. After jumping it I ran it for about 30 minutes and got it back to 13+ volts at dead start. It peaks at 14+ volts when running under load, so it is charging.
"The Future is Unwritten" -Strummer
"speed costs money, so gaffer tape and cable ties will suffice"-Peasant Tuning
I spilled a little bit of my grande latte twice today o.O I was lucky to have a passenger be able to clean it up and hold it for me.
I've been using the gap between the e-brake and the seat. Have you guys seen any cup holders that can be attached with a base like for some GPS units? How about that one armrest that someone was talking about, does that have cup holders?![]()
168k & climbing...
"The Future is Unwritten" -Strummer
"speed costs money, so gaffer tape and cable ties will suffice"-Peasant Tuning
...I was imagining an all out American "pig" disscusion emerging over this cupholder deal.whew
think I will search here and see if there is a thread dedicated to the cupholders ose dot dot dot lol
My F150 has 8 oem cupholders zomg yet only six seat belts, and barely fits 5 large American asses in it.
Which continent's automaker was the real promoter of cupholders anyhew? dodge? Mercedes? VW? Toysoda? lol
If ya need cupholders, I'm sure she'd volunteer to sit in your passenger seat...
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Seriously though anyone have an idea of what's killing my battery. The car sits there without having left the lights on or anything then its dead after one week. Batteries don't just discharge themselves. The battery warning light has been stuck on since I bought the car. Originally I was thinking there is a major short somewhere, or that the alternator was bad, but the car seems to be charging the battery, and it was checked at the shop. No new ECU codes either, since we fixed the EGR problem.
"The Future is Unwritten" -Strummer
"speed costs money, so gaffer tape and cable ties will suffice"-Peasant Tuning
That sounds like a diode issue with the alternator, which will fry the internal regulator.. it is a trickle load on the battery when that happens. Time for a new alternator, the easiest solution esp if you are uncertain of it's age or condition. look here https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=65225
Other things to check are dome light , make sure it is switched off even if the bulb is blown ive seen some cars have a drain because of it. Check the glove box light, and the trunk light too.
Make sure the little plug is in the brake pedal up there where the brake light switch is. Sometimes those fall out too and lets the switch pass thru, thus leaving the brake lights on all the time.
Any add on stereo or etc. that is connected to constant batt. power, make sure those are connected right and or accessory not on too I guess.
Sorry I really don't find that HD cupholder very attractive, lill too masculine for me.. my car is a girl.
Last edited by 2oodoor; 12-05-2010 at 04:10 PM.
I got it started up last night with little issues, and ran it in the parking lot for a bit again. I looked at the thread and I do believe the alternator is the issue. I might just wait till I get the other motor back cause it had a new one mounted on it. I checked every square inch of the car for a light or something that maybe a slow drain on the battery, and nada. I suspected the key illuminator or the trunk light. No such luck in finding anything so it might be that diode in the alternator. Even if I buy a rebuilt or junkyard it doesn't seem worth it if I'm gonna swap in a few weeks.
"The Future is Unwritten" -Strummer
"speed costs money, so gaffer tape and cable ties will suffice"-Peasant Tuning
Not starting again. Charged the battery up, and it sat for less than 48 hours. No juice, not starting. Again I have combed every inch to see if there is something trickling or depleting the battery. Nothing. Any place to start looking for shorts? Nothing like this has happened for 3 months and now it just dies when parked. It springs to life when jump started and retains a charge under load, but when it sits it just dies.
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"The Future is Unwritten" -Strummer
"speed costs money, so gaffer tape and cable ties will suffice"-Peasant Tuning
What voltage is the battery putting out?
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
it could be the battery itself.
The first time that it was dead, it metered under 8 volts. Then I got a jump start and I let it run to charge. The battery was 14 volts + while charging from the alternator. Then I let it charge up to 13 + volts at a sitting charge, because I didn't have time to run the motor for another 30 minutes. After the jump start and charging I shut it down, and did a cold start and metered it I remember it was around 8 + volts.
From the other "battery" thread going around I read that it should be at 9.5 when cranking. The battery should be okay because it was new 4 months ago, it was tested and serviced at 2 locations, including being removed to have the terminals cleaned properly. They are firm connection.
The only electrical mod, was Pico helped me install a MSD coil but we didn't have time or space to mount the control box, so I thought that might be an additional drain on the system but not when the car isn't running? I'm still stumped but the battery indicator light in the dash has been on since I bought the car. I forgot since its been so long since I've had a 3G but will the battery light be on if the alternator or its diode is going? As a precaution I bought an alternator to replace it. If it's charging when running, but discharging the battery when sitting, does that mean the diode has a problem?
"The Future is Unwritten" -Strummer
"speed costs money, so gaffer tape and cable ties will suffice"-Peasant Tuning
Bump for
I'm going to get another jump soon, and see about metering the alt. where lost said too. I'll get back with my report later.
"The Future is Unwritten" -Strummer
"speed costs money, so gaffer tape and cable ties will suffice"-Peasant Tuning
Have you drop that think already LOL
great work bro
200+ ALL MOTOR LS VTEC
Grrrrrahahahahahaha DAMN IT. You get what you pay for...another headache. Ebay alternator turned out to be a 3 pin for LX...after I spent 2 hours grinding it out trying to rip the dead one from the clutches of my deathmobile...Neeeeed retribution and to stop messing with this vehicle. Pain is on the horizon!!!
"The Future is Unwritten" -Strummer
"speed costs money, so gaffer tape and cable ties will suffice"-Peasant Tuning
Noob mistake, I make em all the time. No big deal.
Phil
If you disconnect the battery cables overnight, does the battery still go dead? If not, then you have a voltage drain somewhere. If so, you have a bad battery. I don't think you have an alternator problem if it's putting out 14v.
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
If for some reason the field is staying energized while the ignition is off, that will cause a drain. The rotor is, after all, an electromagnet.
Check that when the key is off, the pin on the green alternator connector that goes to the black/yellow wire does NOT have voltage. That will rule out any problem with the ignition switch, but the alternator could still have an internal problem like roodoo2 was saying. Check for a voltage change (even just a hundredth of a volt) at the battery when you unplug the alternator.
Last edited by Strugglebucket; 12-18-2010 at 12:25 AM.
Originally Posted by Justanothermike
my A20 is not SLOW. ur A20 is slow.
The good news I just broke triple digit posts and it only took me over 7 1/2 years...LOL I guess I'm not the post whore I thought I was. The bad news still no running Accord. I haven't had time to work on it due to school and family crap. I'm pretty sure its the alternator, the car had a new battery when I bought it and has always had the charge/battery light on. Either way I'm gonna get an exchange on the LX alternator for the LXi, that failing I'll buy a new one, and sell this Nippon Denso LX. Argh.
"The Future is Unwritten" -Strummer
"speed costs money, so gaffer tape and cable ties will suffice"-Peasant Tuning
Make sure for sure that it's not the battery cable clamp. The previous owner of my current coupe went through like seven alternators and a dozen batteries when the problem was just a loose cable.
Nice![]()
2004-2011?
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