Step by step DIY Webber convertion + question

[ADRIANFARINA]

done some more work on it today (until it started raining )
took the plug out of the vacoom box and this is how it looked..


the right one is related to what? should I take it off?


we agreed that the stuff connected to the large metal pipe goes down , right?
so how do I block it? what is going through this pipe anyway?


the two items in the center of the picture are connected to the vaccom lines , should I take them off and just leave their wire connectors hanging?


these three vacoom lines go into the right wing (one of them hav a valve) , whre do they go and what do I do with them?


thanks!!!!

[InAccordance]

to make it simple...
the ONLY things you keep are the lines from the distributor, the brake booster line, PCv
anything electronic related to fuel delivery goes away, unplug it, unbolt it, shoot it with a gun.
the canister on the right you most likely dont need anymore
that big pipe in front of the carb is your egr, it goes away too.

[ADRIANFARINA]

thanks!
ok , the rain stoped and this is what happened..
took some sensors out










is this unit related to the heater?




this is where the vacoom lines go in the wing , wht do I do with them? just leave them like this?





I want to keep the a/c working, have I removed anything that I shouldn't have?

[ADRIANFARINA]

also ,
the pcv is the black cube located under the inlet manifold, right?
do I need to take it off? if yes, I only need to plug the black hose at the bottom of it?

what about the egr? where does its vacoom line ends?

[InAccordance]

pcv is the black box under the intake bolted to the block, leave it where it is.
I just left the intake part of the pcv like it was stock, should be a tube coming off the box that plug into a valve which is connected to the intake.
if your gonna keep the a/c, in the summer id adjust your idle up a bit since you are removing the idle boost selenoid, then just adjust it back down whenever you stop using a/c
My a/c didnt work in the first place so ripped it all out, anyone with a weber and working a/c could prob provide better advice.
any, and I mean ANY vacuum lines that arent related to the distributor can be ripped out and thrown away.
that looks like the heater switch thingy so yea. When you turn your heater on, it opens a valve that lets coolant into the heater core.

[ADRIANFARINA]

the vacoom line from the egr ,does it go to?

these vacoom lines that go into the wing , should I leave them like hanging like this? and where do they end ?

[InAccordance]

i think those are related with cruise control and/or the a/c idle boost... not 100% on that though.
I'd have to go outside and look but im pretty sure I ripped all that out... my cruise control didnt work either so it went bye bye as well.

as for the egr, since its being unhooked, you dont need a line to it anymore, you can remove the valve itself and block off the hole, or just leave the valve there as a handy plug.

[ADRIANFARINA]

OK , I'll take the egr down.
where do the vacoom lines end? I'll take them down also .. unless I can use the a/c ones..

[InAccordance]

you'll have to trace them, im not 100% sure

[ADRIANFARINA]

they can't be traced... they go inside the wing panel..

[integratuner77]

Did you make any more progress on this?

[ADRIANFARINA]

yes ,
the carb issue turned into an overhaule...
it was my luck that I was a little dusturbed about a starting problem the car had , so I took the head off .
the head gasket was broken , the watter passages were worn because of regular water usage.
some of the valves were in bad situation , the oil passages from the oil filter to the engine block were almost closed because someone used a lot of RTV there...
after taking the head down , I filled the cylinders with oil and let it stand for few days , the #1 cylinder "suck" half of the oil , #3 and #2 only a little of the oil and #4 is perfect.
it means ... new piston rings.. any recommendations?
I bought a complete engine gasket kit , I'll take the oil pan down and check the big end bearings , cranck bearings and oil pump.
also bought the cam belt and tensioner..
the head was already fixed , new valve stems , new camshaft oil retainer , water passages were fixed/welded , the inlet manifold was cleaned inside and outside , I took the core plugs out and welded the holes (no need for them in Israel)


just want it to go smooth .. no biggie..

[ADRIANFARINA]

as you guys reccomended , I took this out


but how do I close the holes? the one that goes out of the engine block isn't easy to do ..


the oil filter is out with its housing .. and look what some idiots before me did ..


this is how the valves looked


water and oil passages lamost blocked


this is what I've told you about the oil I poured in the cylinders

[CzEcHy]

Wait that looks like the PCV :|


I believe to my knowledge, you DEFINITELY need that.

Is it the thing in the middle of the intake manifold? (top of intake infront of carb), a U shaped hose went to it. (underneath manifold also has a box it connects to)


If not, disregard.

[stat1K]

you don't NEED a pcv but it is there for a reason.

[CzEcHy]

A clean engine is a happy engine.

[ADRIANFARINA]

I know the reason why the PCV exists , but is it necessary?
it's there for enviorment reasons , and to help prevent blowing gaskets.

[Lil Mike]

its dumb to get rid of it, it helps keep the oil clean.

[ADRIANFARINA]

can I improvise an open filter instead of the black box? I mean .. like the one I'll be using on the valve cover?

I can connect a filter to the tube that comes out from the block .. but what about the hole?

[Xaisk]

Ive done the weber swap successfully and I left that black box in there.

Im waiting for Lostforawhile to chime in because he knows alot of the technical details on how it keeps our oil from getting watered down and sludging up.

The PCV system in our Accords is really great and I would highly recommend reinstalling it.

Also it keeps your block from not having that hole in it =D

Another good thing to do while you have your stuff apart.. That metal pipe going from your exhaust manifold.. The only sound way of removing it is to go to a junkyard and grab an LXI 4-2-1 header and downpipe. You can pick it up here for about 25 bucks together. The LXI manifold doesnt have that metal pipe at all so you can just throw that thing in the trash. Also the LXI header and downpipe have alot better flow than the 4-1 header that came stock in it.

I personally didnt know about that when I did my swap and drove around by putting a cork in the metal pipe to keep the exhaust from escaping it, but that only worked so well as it will blow out of the pipe after so much pressure builds. You can drive without anything blocking it, but your hood will look black on the underside like mine. Still needs to be cleaned.

Your intake manifold is for a water choke carb. The only problem with that is, if you got the electric choke weber, you will have to fill in that little metal hole in the manifold near where the throat of the carb sits with JB weld or something. It is an absolute MUST do. If you dont you will have water coming out of that hole and going through your intake manifold, down into your cylinders and its all hell from there. Make sure you glob that JB weld on because it is EXTREMELY important that you seal it good.

Last but not least.. your intake manifold will have vacuum inlets/outlets on it that wont go anywhere and will leak vacuum and cause it to run like crap if you do not cap em'. I used rubber caps and mine is holding out, the caps are dryrotting pretty quickly so im going to have to put another pack on. When I finally get money again im going to have aluminum ones welded on so it will last forever.

I think that was the list of the major things you need to look out for. Just use some gasket sealer when you put it together on each gasket to help it seal since you have all the adapter plates, and you should be fine.

[ADRIANFARINA]

OK,
today I took the oil pan and pistons out.
I don't like the looks of them .. they are ok ... but not so reliable.

here are some pictures,







#4 cylinder has this corrosion , it's because of the gasket that blew ... water set in there for about 2-3 months until I filled it with oil.
how do I take it out?

[ADRIANFARINA]

no pistons




#1



#3



#4



#2

[ADRIANFARINA]

more pictures of cylinder #4




the rest of the mounts don't look much better than this one..


and this is someone that slept under my car...


now ,
I have some questions ,
how do I get rid of the corrosion?
can I do the honing with the engine block on the car and how complicated is it?
I'm thinking about getting this piston set , they don't ship to Israel .. can someonr help me with shipping it to Israel? I'm thinking about shipping it to someone that will accept it , repack it in a smaller package and ship it to me .. ofcourse I'll pay in advance...
thanks,
Adrian.


p.s.
I also need a complete engine/gear mount kit , any recommandations?

[88Accord-DX]

It would have been easier to pull the engine & transmission out as an assembly with the amount of work that is needed there. If you want to rebuild that engine, you need to pull it out & send it to a machine shop to have it bored out, to at least .010" if not beyond that specs on any cylinder. Yeah, if you have an inside dial bore gauge & good tools to take all the measurements, you might be able to hone it out if it's within specs. You'll also need to mic or plastigage you main bearings to see how worn they are also.
Typically, they sell pistons,rings & main bearings in standard, .010" , .020" & .030" increments. I would send that block off to have it mic'ed before buying any kits, if you don't have to the right tools. Precise measurements need to be taken for a successful rebuild.

[ADRIANFARINA]

I have exelent tools , but don't have my own space .. this is why I didn't take the whole engine out but took it out in pieces.