Exhaust Information

[Xaisk]

Hey guys,

Sometime in the future, I plan on upgrading my exhaust system. My car cant expell the exhaust gases fast enough since I did the 32/36 Weber Conversion.
Could I get some information from you guys.. Like.. What kind of exhaust headers would you guys use? What kind of Cat converter should I use if at all? (not in cali) and what kind of muffler should I use? What diameter pipes? I know the straight through mufflers are the way to go in terms of expelling the gases faster, seeing as the stock ones are like labrynths on the inside.

Thanks yall. I still have ALOT to learn haha...

[Bass Man]

Headers... You'll be lucky to find any, so be gratefull if you get one. lol...
You don't want your pipe too big, because the more space (surface area inside the pipe) your exhaust gases have to cool down, the colder it gets and the denser it gets. It's easier to push hotter exhaust. Of course there is a balance between too restrictive and too big. 2" to 2 1/4" is perfect for the 2.0's N/A. And I've always had good luck with Flowmaster mufflers, but Magnaflow is another great alternative.

[Civic Accord Honda]

2 1/4th pipeing, no cat , flowmaster 40, pacesetters header , resonators are up to you.

[just1]

go pacesetter header back sounds and looks great on the 3gee

[Xaisk]

2 1/4th pipeing, no cat , flowmaster 40, pacesetters header , resonators are up to you.

For the flowmaster 40s.. you meant this right? http://www.flowmastermufflers.com/sh...oducts_id=4211

I peered over this book in the bookstore one day that caught my eye about maxing A20s and B-series motors and the first thing it mentioned was the exhaust. It said the straight back ones like this one were the best for getting out exhaust.
http://www.flowmastermufflers.com/sh...oducts_id=4170

It doesnt have to be that same size.. I can probally find one with a 2.25 diameter. Doesnt even have to be that brand, just trying to get my first steps on learning this.

I figured as much about the pacesetters. I skimmed over a few posts and thats what most people are useing, so I will probally do the same.

[2oodoor]

All you really need is a LXi (A20A3)exhaust manifold and downpipe, free flowing or no cat, 2 1/4 piping. The only benefit a header has over those is weight. That manifold is designed for better flow than stantdard A20A1 and has dual downpipe flange.

"expelling exhaust gases..." man wtf LOL...I had a 38 weber and gutted out intake manifold on a stock A20A1 exhaust and that car ran sweet, 100% improvement over stock carb. Try advancing the ignition timing some now, it will go.

[2ndGenGuy]

^^ The 32/36 is also barely bigger than stock. 38 pwns it hard. Significant upgrade.

[Civic Accord Honda]

yeah thats the muffler, they sound good and if there good enough for 300hp+ muscle cars there good enough for a 100hp honda

as for header roodoo is right the LXI one is a nice upgrade, and will save you some $$$

just remember mandrel bent piping not crush bent !!

[Xaisk]

All you really need is a LXi (A20A3)exhaust manifold and downpipe, free flowing or no cat, 2 1/4 piping. The only benefit a header has over those is weight. That manifold is designed for better flow than stantdard A20A1 and has dual downpipe flange.

"expelling exhaust gases..." man wtf LOL...I had a 38 weber and gutted out intake manifold on a stock A20A1 exhaust and that car ran sweet, 100% improvement over stock carb. Try advancing the ignition timing some now, it will go.

Ill try advancing it and screwing around with the timing. The car runs very well except for needing bigger jets. Whatll happen is ill be driving and sometimes when the gear shifts the car will backfire a bit. Not super loud, but just a bit so I can hear it, and takes a few seconds to actually shift.

Ill try messing around with the timing though. Thanks.

As for the muffler. Its not so expensive.. Ill look into getting one very soon. I like nice sound but im more for performance over looks and all that etc..

I know this is going to sound stupid.. What is the downpipe flange? >_>
im going to wiki it now.. Ima keep an eye out for that exhaust manifold when in the junkyard from now on.. shouldnt be difficult to find..

[Civic Accord Honda]

down pipe is the pipe that runs under the car and contects to the manifold
http://tuningevolution.com/eshop/cat...onda-Civic.jpg
see where the 2 pipes bolt together? thats the flange lol

on your car you have all 4 exhuast ports being routed in to 1 tube down at the botom like in that pic. on the LX-I one it has 2 pipes contecting there so the exhuast goes from 4-2-1 instead of just 4-1 lol

heres a 4-2-1 style
http://www.nordicautoimport.com/ekmp...nifold_101.jpg
lets the air flow better pretty much less restriction

[Xaisk]

Oh ok! makes complete sense now. if I kept the downpipe and manifold for the A20A3 one would it be able to mount on mine without any modification or would I have to mess around with it?

[2oodoor]

If it is backfiring something is wrong with the carb set up also the TV linkage sounds like its outta whack. Is the throttle on the carb being returned to the stop when you are decelerating? Most of us all have had to add stronger return springs on these cars.

[Xaisk]

Im going to be honest. Never messed with the TV cable. How do I adjust that?
I tested the return spring repeatedly by opening and closing it over and over to see if it came shut all the way and it did. I think since its being used now that its becoming more stetchy and losing its strength. Sometimes ill decelerate and stop at a light and it wont go down to what I have the idle set to till I push the accelerator pedal a few times.

Now that I think about it that is sounding alot more logical.
Ill change the spring.

As for the TV cable.. How should I go about adjusting that?

[2oodoor]

you wont be able to set the TV cable until you have the pedal and throttle situation proper. It has to be consistent because the TV cable is more or less a guide for the transmission to know what the throttle position is, in a manner of speaking.

[Civic Accord Honda]

Oh ok! makes complete sense now. if I kept the downpipe and manifold for the A20A3 one would it be able to mount on mine without any modification or would I have to mess around with it?

bolts in lol, ive swaped them around on my old 3g (i had the lxi but the rest of my exhuast was rusty so i just threw the whole exhaust on from my DX parts car then later swaped the lxi manifold back on and it was nice improvement compared to the dx

[Xaisk]

K ill go scrounge around for a tighter spring. Ive read that people often have to find springs on random carbs or anything that has a spring. Ima check some stores before I do that though.

Thanks for the info.

[InAccordance]

im still dicking around with it, but im working on a way to use a throttle linkage off an FI accord with the dual stage intake to fit to the weber on an auto for the TV cable. Reason being is since the throttle cable comes in from the front and pulls towards the front, that particular cam has another space for a cable that will pull in the opposite direction, which is what is needed since the TV cable routes from the rear.
only problem i have with it right now is the TV cable doesnt have enough slack for the length of the throttle cam itself, so slightly longer cable is needed, but really only about and inch to inch and a half extra.
right now i'm just running around with the TV cable unhooked and manually shifting it. 1st is a pisser since it wants to switch into 2nd almost right away after accelerating, otherwise its doing just fine, hell it even shifts smoother... which worries me tbh

[Xaisk]

Ok so I had a VERY succesful junkyard run today.

I ran into a 1st gen accord with minimal body damage and some pretty ehh interior damage. Would have loved to had it. =(

I also ran into a 3g hatch and one of the luxury 3rd gens sitting right beside eachother like they were destined for me to run in to.

I managed to get the flange and exhaust manifold from the A20A3.

They are in pretty alright condition other than needing to be media blasted then put on the car.

http://www.myspace.com/the_trooper12...nifold/2156569

There are some pictures of the parts.

The only thing im concerned with is....

1. No cat.. im pretty sure its illegal but idk. I dont have the welding tools so for me to even do this work ill have to take it somewhere and have it welded together and if its illegal they might not do the work for me.

2. The male connectors for the exhaust to flange are cut. Its clearly noticeable in the picture and the 2 connecters dont poke through the flange so theres no chance of me bolting it on.

How would I go about replacing that chaotic mess?

I dont plan on putting any of these parts into the car until I have the delta 40 muffler, and these parts media blasted and prepared to go on.

(edit)

Also.. it appears to have what looks like 2 oxygen sensors... shed some light on if they are both oxy sensors or not please?
Thanks

[MessyHonda]

if you are carb you just need one oxygen sensor

[Xaisk]

So theoretically to make things easy I can just cut the entire wire off one of the two sensors and just leave the metal body of the sensor in to keep it from leaking?

Cool deal.

As for the threads and length on the bolts that connect it to the flange.. They appear to be like the ones inside the intake manifold flange...

Im going to try to get them out with some vice grips but I dont know if itll work since the heat probally helped seal it together.

Any recommendations on that?

[88lxi-shortram]

you could plug it with a cut o2 sensor but what you could also do is have it welded shut when u take everythng to be welded

[cygnus x-1]

So theoretically to make things easy I can just cut the entire wire off one of the two sensors and just leave the metal body of the sensor in to keep it from leaking?

Yep.

As for the threads and length on the bolts that connect it to the flange.. They appear to be like the ones inside the intake manifold flange...

Im going to try to get them out with some vice grips but I dont know if itll work since the heat probally helped seal it together.

Any recommendations on that?

1) Spray the studs liberally with penetrating oil.
2) Let it soak for a few hours.
3) Spray again with oil.
4) Heat with a torch until the oil burns off completely.
5) Repeat 3 and 4 a few more times
6) Try unscrewing the stud with vise grips
7) Do the happy dance if it comes out
8) Swear profusely if it breaks off in the manifold
9) Drill out the stud and re-thread with a heli-coil
10) Use lots of anti-seize compound on the new studs during reassembly
11) Enjoy a frosty beverage



C|

[Xaisk]

Ive never used penetrating oil. Makes me feel kind of stupid seeing how many bolts tend to break. Im planning on, (if money persists) to take it into the shop on base to see if I can use the media blasting machine. I will also use the torch as well to heat it up and try this.

Never used a media blaster before. Sounds like its going to be a fun day.

[Xaisk]

Well I had alot of fun today.

I went to my base auto hobby shop and paid 10 dollars for like.. 2 hours on the media blaster machine.

I must say im very impressed and satisfied.

I blasted the parts of the exhaust manifold that connect to the block and flange, and they look like brand new parts that just came off of the line!

I didnt bother blasting the body of the manifold as it was this wierd red color that wasnt rust. I mean I did blast it but it took alot of work to make even a tiny piece of it silver again. Im just going to paint it silver again. There isnt one piece of grime or rust on it at all and it looks GREAT.

Just needa get those studs out and itll be ready.

Gotta get my muffler and a few gaskets and itll be ready to weld together and put on.. too bad I have to wait till next check.