Results 1 to 15 of 15

Thread: Diagnostic Help

  1. #1
    LX User
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Vehicle
    1989 Honda Accord LXi Coupe, 1995 Dodge Ram 1500
    Location
    Huntington Beach, CA
    Posts
    141

    Diagnostic Help

    I installed a water separator oil catch can similar to this setup, it filled with oil very quickly, and I knew that I had severe blow by issues. I checked compression, it was very poor in three cylinders. While showing the car to a prospective buyer from 3geez today a few things happened that have me stumped.

    1. The fluid in the catch can became milky, but the oil on the dipstick, and the oil visible through the oil cap are still clear.

    2. The idle increased when I removed the oil cap while the engine was running.

    What do these two things mean? Can they help pinpoint the cause of the blow by?(rings/cylinder scoring, head gasket, valve seals)
    Last edited by Harrison_Bergeron; 09-11-2010 at 10:27 PM.



  2. #2
    LXi User 1987AccordLx-i's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Vehicle
    1987 Lx-i sedan auto (totalled), 1989 Lx-i coupe 5spd (sold), 1988 Lx-i 4 Door 5-speed
    Location
    los angeles
    Posts
    665

    Re: Diagnostic Help

    Quote Originally Posted by Harrison_Bergeron View Post
    I installed a water separator oil catch can similar to this setup, it filled with oil very quickly, and I knew that I had severe blow by issues. I checked compression, it was very poor in three cylinders. While showing the car to a prospective buyer from 3geez today a few things happened that have me stumped.

    1. The fluid in the catch can became milky, but the oil on the dipstick, and the oil visible through the oil cap are still clear.

    2. The idle increased when I removed the oil cap while the engine was running.

    What do these two things mean? Can they help pinpoint the cause of the blow by?(rings/cylinder scoring, head gasket, valve seals)
    milky oil is associated with a blown head gasket... but if you have normal oil in the crankcase then something is not working right...
    -Tom

    1988 4 Door Lx-i 5-speed
    364,XXX and counting :]

  3. #3

    2oodoor's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Vehicle
    86 LX JDM B20A
    Location
    Georgia-lina
    Posts
    9,062

    Re: Diagnostic Help

    are you using a PVC valve in that set up? you cant run streight vacuum from the intake side, this will put moisture from the intake air into that reservior as well as suck oil right into it..(got milk>) its only supposed to relieve pressure from the crankcase in a metered fashion. If there happens to be blowby oil fumes on the back side of the pistons , not the combustion side, then that is what this thing is supposed to be collecting.

  4. #4
    LX User
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Vehicle
    1989 Honda Accord LXi Coupe, 1995 Dodge Ram 1500
    Location
    Huntington Beach, CA
    Posts
    141

    Re: Diagnostic Help

    I have the line from the pcv valve into a "T" with the line from the valve cover, both of those go to the separator, which then goes to the intake manifold where the valve cover vent used to be plumbed. Where the PCV went is capped.

    Both lines went to a vacuum source from the factory.

  5. #5

    2oodoor's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Vehicle
    86 LX JDM B20A
    Location
    Georgia-lina
    Posts
    9,062

    Re: Diagnostic Help

    If that is how you have it then you are not venting properly.
    Why do you even have an alternative set up for this anyway? do you run boost?
    Catch can set ups are to enhance the crankcase vent system because of the excess blow by created from combustion chamber pressures from boost.

    The valve cover is where the vent gets fresh air, normally thru a hose in the air intake or you can just use a filter cap on that same grommet. Having vacuum there does nothing but make you loose vacuum.

    The pvc should have solid strong vacuum at the valve, then the other end should go into your can, separator etcc. then that device should pull from the oil pan grommet. In other words pvc is a metered check valve that is in place in the "hose" or contained device that then sucks out "fumes" from the oil pan. Catch can just eliminates more solids from that sucked harvest air before it gets into the vacuum source.

  6. #6
    LX User
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Vehicle
    1989 Honda Accord LXi Coupe, 1995 Dodge Ram 1500
    Location
    Huntington Beach, CA
    Posts
    141

    Re: Diagnostic Help

    I think I understand what you are saying now, I thought that the hoses would still pull vacuum on either side of the throttle(just different amounts at different throttle positions), and the one on the manifold side was easier to plumb to.

    I'm still confused though. I did the catch can setup because my air box had oil pooling in it that I attributed to excessive blow by pushing oil(vapor) into the intake. I am pretty confident that the oil is coming from the valve cover hose, which means the hose is not just sucking in, it is blowing out, which it sounds like you are saying is wrong. This was to be a band aid for that issue.

    I think I see what I need to do to understand the problem better. I am going to re-plumb the system so that the catch can is just inline with the stock lines and their respective intake sources and see if that provides any new information.
    Last edited by Harrison_Bergeron; 09-13-2010 at 05:52 PM.

  7. #7

    2oodoor's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Vehicle
    86 LX JDM B20A
    Location
    Georgia-lina
    Posts
    9,062

    Re: Diagnostic Help

    simple set.. the PVC valve is a pre metered device that should be purchased per application
    The PVC should be getting vaccum from the strongest vacuum source intake manifold

    The PVC should be plumbed to the Black box or oil separator (wheather it is via a catch can or not)

    The PVC "system" gets it's air from the vent grommet on the valve cover, note that I said air not vacuum.

    If the PVC system components up to the tube going into the oil pan down there has any leaks, it will not properly vent the crankcase.

    The valve cover part in a way of speakinghas nothing to do with the PVC in that it shares no components or plumbing.

    The vent on the valve cover in a way of speakingis to prevent vacuum from building up in the crankcase so that it does not start sucking raw oil into the intake manifold.
    The PVC system is in a way of speakingto prevent air pressure from building up in the crankcase.

  8. #8
    3Geez Veteran lostforawhile's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Vehicle
    86 hatchback, 1990 Lincoln Towncar
    Location
    nowhere GA
    Posts
    15,401

    Re: Diagnostic Help

    it's possible under certain vaccume conditions the pcv valve may not be creating a vaccume on the system, in this case a small amount of blowby may vent out the valve cover, but if oil is puddling there is a more serious problem. there's a small filter built into the original air cleaner if i remember right to stop any oil from ending up in the air cleaner it's not much of a filter though. I think this would mainly occur when manifold vaccume is at it's lowest. if there's no compression on three cylinders, chances are there could also be a very poor vaccume signal at the intake, and the pcv simply isn't working right. low compression also means low vaccume when pulling in the intake charge. have you hooked a vaccume gauge to manifold vaccume and seen what it reads?

  9. #9
    3Geez Veteran lostforawhile's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Vehicle
    86 hatchback, 1990 Lincoln Towncar
    Location
    nowhere GA
    Posts
    15,401

  10. #10
    LXi User InAccordance's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Vehicle
    1989 Accord LX Sedan / 2000 Accord EX v6
    Posts
    967

    Re: Diagnostic Help

    imo, pvc is one of those things that if it aint broke, dont fuck with it...
    unless your running some serious mods or boost, just leave it alone.
    Originally posted by ShiRen:
    Nice car or not, nobody likes losing a race to an old 4 door Honda.

  11. #11
    3Geez Veteran Civic Accord Honda's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Vehicle
    1995 Civic/ 1988 CRX
    Location
    Tehachapi Ca
    Posts
    13,103

    Re: Diagnostic Help

    catch cans sometimes get filled with milky stuff normally do to condensation same with under oil cap..

    1988 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe 123k miles.

  12. #12
    3Geez Veteran lostforawhile's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Vehicle
    86 hatchback, 1990 Lincoln Towncar
    Location
    nowhere GA
    Posts
    15,401

    Re: Diagnostic Help

    Quote Originally Posted by InAccordance View Post
    imo, pvc is one of those things that if it aint broke, dont fuck with it...
    unless your running some serious mods or boost, just leave it alone.
    the catch can is an easy mod if you do it right, it just plumbs between the top of the box and the valve itself as long as there aren't leaks it's fine

  13. #13
    LXi User InAccordance's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Vehicle
    1989 Accord LX Sedan / 2000 Accord EX v6
    Posts
    967

    Re: Diagnostic Help

    oh i know, just saying there's really no point to it unless your running serious modifications.
    Originally posted by ShiRen:
    Nice car or not, nobody likes losing a race to an old 4 door Honda.

  14. #14
    3Geez Veteran lostforawhile's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Vehicle
    86 hatchback, 1990 Lincoln Towncar
    Location
    nowhere GA
    Posts
    15,401

    Re: Diagnostic Help

    Quote Originally Posted by InAccordance View Post
    oh i know, just saying there's really no point to it unless your running serious modifications.
    it keeps the blowby crap from coating the inside of your intake

  15. #15
    LX User
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Vehicle
    1989 Honda Accord LXi Coupe, 1995 Dodge Ram 1500
    Location
    Huntington Beach, CA
    Posts
    141

    Re: Diagnostic Help

    Quote Originally Posted by lostforawhile View Post
    it keeps the blowby crap from coating the inside of your intake
    Exactly, when I first got my car it would not run for more than a few seconds before stalling out and not starting. The only thing i did to get it running was spraying throttle body cleaner down into the manifold and scrubbing as far as I could down the throttle body. Now it starts first time every time, and has not stalled once.

Similar Threads

  1. How to diagnostic and reactive the cruise control system.
    By Mario Calero in forum 3geez Accords
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 02-17-2007, 05:32 PM
  2. Honda Dealer Diagnostic
    By meangreenLXi in forum 3geez Accords
    Replies: 18
    Last Post: 12-15-2003, 05:26 AM
  3. trouble need diagnostic help
    By blown89lxi in forum 3geez Accords
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 10-31-2003, 06:40 AM
  4. stupid question about the On Board Diagnostic computer
    By italia89lxi in forum 3geez Accords
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 09-20-2002, 08:59 AM

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
This website uses cookies
We use cookies to store session information to facilitate remembering your login information, to allow you to save website preferences, to personalise content and ads, to provide social media features and to analyse our traffic. We also share information about your use of our site with our social media, advertising and analytics partners.
     
Links monetized by VigLink