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Thread: A20 v.s. B18c

  1. #1
    DX User neo_blue_accord's Avatar
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    Exclamation A20 v.s. B18c

    Alright I have some questions about my A20. I was thinking about putting in a new engine and just doing a EFI build with a stand alone fuel management system. I was wondering how much would it take to build it up. Where can I find performance parts for it. I'm thinking it would be easier to put a B18C into my car then to build up this engine. Let me know what there is out there.



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    LXi User 88lxi-shortram's Avatar
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    Re: A20 v.s. B18c

    before you even think about performance or anything else start trying to figure out if its worth doing it. youll need the efi conversion, custom mounts, probably axles, ect. ect. its alot harder than drop and plug so really consider the money youll spend... you could probably do any efi conversion on the a20 and boost it for the same price you can get the engine in the car running
    88 lxi:
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    DX User neo_blue_accord's Avatar
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    Re: A20 v.s. B18c

    I know about the mounts and axles and the transmission. What I wanna know is where can I find parts for the A20. I've found parts for the swap but not much for my engine.

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    3Geez Veteran A18A's Avatar
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    Re: A20 v.s. B18c

    read the performance thread in the performance section, lots of info in that

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    LXi User 88lxi-shortram's Avatar
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    Re: A20 v.s. B18c

    yup and as far as "finding" parts for an a20 you wont find much but you can make alot of have people make it and get major gains.... another thing to consider is time though... if youre going to need the car after about a week or so doing a swap wont be the best idea but if you have time like i do to set it aside and make it your perfect car that everyone visualizes then span it out over time, ask questions, and do it right. we can all give a little input and hell with the input ive had on one thread i could remake the manual.
    88 lxi:
    shortram, msd blaster 2 coil, lowered 2.5" in the rear 3" in the front, stripped because race car XD

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    DX User neo_blue_accord's Avatar
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    Re: A20 v.s. B18c

    The car is actually a full project car so time is nothing. I have a truck to get parts and what not. It's gonna be quite a long time before I actually start on it since I have to build up the money pot.

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    LXi User 88lxi-shortram's Avatar
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    Re: A20 v.s. B18c

    allright at least you know where you stand... to many people get on here and think that they can buy a motor and have it in the car running in a day... newbs.... lol i was like that and many more to come
    88 lxi:
    shortram, msd blaster 2 coil, lowered 2.5" in the rear 3" in the front, stripped because race car XD

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    DX User neo_blue_accord's Avatar
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    Re: A20 v.s. B18c

    I'll probably get a new A20 and get it fuel injected since I do need a fuel friendly car. If not a new engine, a good running LXI engine. I personally think the B18C would be better in a coupe or hatch but that's me. I do have a question though. What would I all need to put a Lxi harness in my car. Pretty much the whole wire harness? I won't do that but just curious.

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    Re: A20 v.s. B18c

    So I have a 89 accord lxi coupe... I wanna drop a b18c1 in it? Ive heard its an easier swap. Can anyone help point me in the right direction for this swap??

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    Re: A20 v.s. B18c

    Read rendons thread a few spots under this one. Its called "a to b swap" or something like that

    Edit: His thread is in the general performance section. Cant miss it
    Last edited by Tdurr; 04-10-2012 at 07:16 AM.

    Quote Originally Posted by CAH View Post
    pullin up turbo spoolin fast lookin fly like a 3g like a 3g like a 3g

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    Re: A20 v.s. B18c

    Alright ill check it out thanks!

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    Re: A20 v.s. B18c

    I think the easiest swap would have to be like a b18a(90-93) but i went b18c because i had a good deal on it but you would have to piece everything together.

    1989 Honda Accord LX-i
    B18c1 swap since 7/2011
    175whp and 132tq
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    Re: A20 v.s. B18c

    I'm very happy with my 200bhp 160lbft A20 although be interesting to see what a fully built B20A would be like, then again a fully built B18C on ITB's could be fun can easily be tuned to 250bhp and some instances a little more although anything above 270bhp would be undriveable on road. But any engine that can put down 200bhp in our cars is pretty interesting!!

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    Re: A20 v.s. B18c

    I just wanted to add that the A20 does have a better torque curve than the(stock) B18c. I had it all from a stock A20 to a fully built A20 and a B18c with just a intake and exhuast with a tune. The A20 can put down some good power if built right. The reason I went with a B is because even if i blew it up tons of people sell swaps from 1000-1800. What it really comes down to is how much money you want to put into a 23 year old car.

    1989 Honda Accord LX-i
    B18c1 swap since 7/2011
    175whp and 132tq
    Redzone tuned

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    Re: A20 v.s. B18c

    Lol at least yours is only 23 mines nearly 30!!
    I agree torque curve on A18/20 hybrid is pretty sweet 160lbft is more than a S2000!!! :0)
    Mad thing is my engine apart from it's head work is all stock , stock bore size, stock honda pistons, stock rings, stock cast header.
    All I've done is some serious headwork with big valves, a reasonable camshaft, big arse downpipe and exhaust system and a pair of Weber 45's, ignition is stock, and header stock.
    Now imagine if I replaced pistons with higher compression forged ones 1mm bigger, then had a better bisi Cam welded profile, custom header made, and a few titanium goodies on the valvetrain combined possibly with DCOE 48's or ITB's with 50mm bore size.
    That would be easily good for 240-250bhp and 190-200lbft everything I do seems to edge it's way towards those figures.

    But still have a urge to play with a B20A though with it's twin cams and larger valve size potential would make a huge torque monster and still be good for 250bhp maybe more. Only thing is rev range is limited unlike A18/20 which with it's better rocker design can handle pretty much any rev range you can throw at it. yes it may vibrate and clatter like a diesel but this engine is seriously tuff and can rev like any modern engine and who care's about it not being refined it's in a old car and most cases engine like this is for racing so comforts and noise are thrown out the window long ago!! lol!!

  16. #16
    3Geez Veteran AccordEpicenter's Avatar
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    Re: A20 v.s. B18c

    I was still making more power with a junkyard turbo on a 130k stock a20. I bet you have alot of money with the headwork and webers in your car rich, not to mention a B18C swap el oh el
    429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*

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    Re: A20 v.s. B18c

    Headwork isn't that much it's knowing what to do and spend the money on, cam is just a basic run of the mill regrind 285 degree, delta spec probably very similar, has no real nice lift only 10mm, have a 272 degree as well with 10mm both were done quite cheaply by local UK company.
    The Valves were by SI valves which I believe now have a new machinist that can cut them to size, or you can use supertech (this is better option found by Smeado, the stems are thinner and valves superior quality), you can use supertech valve train too in titanium with Bisi springs or use stock ET/A18 springs which I've found to be fine upto 7.5k rpm possibly 8k rpm.
    Valve guides SI valves again very cheap few dollars each pretty cheap to have fitted whilst having a 3 angle or 5 angle seat cut.
    Seats are where the expense is 5 angle/radiused seat most expensive but worth the cost especially with increase in valve sizes.
    Port work to be honest anyone that's good with their hands with a little direction can do this themselves, then it's just a case of doing the valve seats, guides and a good skim off the head to increase CR ratio.
    The Webers yes costly but not so expensive it's impossible to do, but for the power increase you get and the ability to grow the engine from 150bhp to 230bhp are pretty essential. This is the most high cost item but if you look for good clean 2nd hand ones can be found for reasonable costs.
    The most expensive single item really is the exhaust having a custom downpipe and system mandrel bent in stainless with 2.5" piping is a must for 200bhp or more, having a custom header will give even better rewards and better top end power band but isn't a must have option if on a budget your better off spending on the webers first.
    So with a stock A20a4 block with fresh set of pistons, rings, ACL bearings, everything balanced etc. with a A18 head bolted on with big valve conversion, bit of head work half decent cam gring, coupled with some tweaked Weber DCOE's, good downpipe and exhaust and there is no reason with a good tuner that this setup will make 190-200bhp. With a more aggressive Bisi camshaft and header this would probably make 210-220bhp possibly more.

  18. #18
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    Re: A20 v.s. B18c

    hey im doing a b18a b or c swap in my 87 honda accord lx and i was wondering it i would need to make custom drive shafts or will the ones off a 94 acura integra work?

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    Re: A20 v.s. B18c

    Quote Originally Posted by rjudgey View Post
    Headwork isn't that much it's knowing what to do and spend the money on, cam is just a basic run of the mill regrind 285 degree, delta spec probably very similar, has no real nice lift only 10mm, have a 272 degree as well with 10mm both were done quite cheaply by local UK company.
    The Valves were by SI valves which I believe now have a new machinist that can cut them to size, or you can use supertech (this is better option found by Smeado, the stems are thinner and valves superior quality), you can use supertech valve train too in titanium with Bisi springs or use stock ET/A18 springs which I've found to be fine upto 7.5k rpm possibly 8k rpm.
    Valve guides SI valves again very cheap few dollars each pretty cheap to have fitted whilst having a 3 angle or 5 angle seat cut.
    Seats are where the expense is 5 angle/radiused seat most expensive but worth the cost especially with increase in valve sizes.
    Port work to be honest anyone that's good with their hands with a little direction can do this themselves, then it's just a case of doing the valve seats, guides and a good skim off the head to increase CR ratio.
    The Webers yes costly but not so expensive it's impossible to do, but for the power increase you get and the ability to grow the engine from 150bhp to 230bhp are pretty essential. This is the most high cost item but if you look for good clean 2nd hand ones can be found for reasonable costs.
    The most expensive single item really is the exhaust having a custom downpipe and system mandrel bent in stainless with 2.5" piping is a must for 200bhp or more, having a custom header will give even better rewards and better top end power band but isn't a must have option if on a budget your better off spending on the webers first.
    So with a stock A20a4 block with fresh set of pistons, rings, ACL bearings, everything balanced etc. with a A18 head bolted on with big valve conversion, bit of head work half decent cam gring, coupled with some tweaked Weber DCOE's, good downpipe and exhaust and there is no reason with a good tuner that this setup will make 190-200bhp. With a more aggressive Bisi camshaft and header this would probably make 210-220bhp possibly more.
    Bro, this is why I love you. So much knowledge flows out of your post.

    Quote Originally Posted by CAH View Post
    pullin up turbo spoolin fast lookin fly like a 3g like a 3g like a 3g

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    Re: A20 v.s. B18c

    i want to swap a b16 is it possible to connect the b16 to the a20a1 gearbox?

    I've not, wich drive shafts do i need?

  21. #21
    3Geez Veteran MessyHonda's Avatar
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    Re: A20 v.s. B18c

    Quote Originally Posted by antoni View Post
    i want to swap a b16 is it possible to connect the b16 to the a20a1 gearbox?

    I've not, wich drive shafts do i need?
    the a20 gearbox does not work for the b series engine.

    1989 Honda Accord LX-i
    B18c1 swap since 7/2011
    175whp and 132tq
    Redzone tuned

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