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Thread: rear disk question

  1. #1
    LXi User 88lxi-shortram's Avatar
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    rear disk question

    ok so i was at pull a part yesterday and noticed that an 88 teg had rear disks. i know we need the master cyindler from an se-i ect. ect. but has anyone used this for a rear disk swap? hell if anythng can we use the setup from that as an alternative to the se-i?
    88 lxi:
    shortram, msd blaster 2 coil, lowered 2.5" in the rear 3" in the front, stripped because race car XD



  2. #2
    SEi User ZackieDarko's Avatar
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    Re: rear disk question

    Only the SE-i will fit, sorry.

  3. #3


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    Re: rear disk question

    ^ this, and it's "ETC" not "ECT" as in ET CETERA
    dead white and blue

  4. #4
    LXi User 88lxi-shortram's Avatar
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    Re: rear disk question

    Lol ok ... That sucks. I thought I found a good alternative... O well I'll be on the lookout for se-I's again
    88 lxi:
    shortram, msd blaster 2 coil, lowered 2.5" in the rear 3" in the front, stripped because race car XD

  5. #5

    Dr_Snooz's Avatar
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    Re: rear disk question

    Quote Originally Posted by 88lxi-shortram View Post
    ok so i was at pull a part yesterday and noticed that an 88 teg had rear disks. i know we need the master cyindler from an se-i ect. ect. but has anyone used this for a rear disk swap? hell if anythng can we use the setup from that as an alternative to the se-i?
    You need the prop valve, not the master cylinder.
    Dr_Snooz

    "I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis


    1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap

    Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW

  6. #6
    3Geez Veteran
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    Re: rear disk question

    Quote Originally Posted by stat1K View Post
    ^ this, and it's "ETC" not "ECT" as in ET CETERA
    Gah, that reminds me of people at my school that say "e-tick, e-tick".

  7. #7
    LXi User 88lxi-shortram's Avatar
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    Re: rear disk question

    Oooooo ok... I do have a question about the proportioning valve though. After I get my car registered and insured I wanted to do a full wire tuck and bay cleanup. Can I relocate the proportioning valve w/o complication? I was thinking I could buy some of that diy bendable brakes lines and hide it away pretty good. But I was reading into this on a 1geez post and someone said something about the lines being shaped all funny for a reason.
    88 lxi:
    shortram, msd blaster 2 coil, lowered 2.5" in the rear 3" in the front, stripped because race car XD

  8. #8


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    Re: rear disk question

    there is probably a specific distance of line between each corner that might need to be retained all i know is that if you need a valve i have one pm me for a price.
    dead white and blue

  9. #9
    LXi User 88lxi-shortram's Avatar
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    Re: rear disk question

    I'm not going to be doing a rear disk yet but thx for the offer. But what I've been thinking is that the valve works by sensing pressure and then proportioning out the brakes to how it should be.... In theory the valve would still work with any size lines and any shape because the pressure would still be sensed and proportioned. I guess what I'm trying to say is no matter how the lines are the pressure will always be there
    88 lxi:
    shortram, msd blaster 2 coil, lowered 2.5" in the rear 3" in the front, stripped because race car XD

  10. #10

    Dr_Snooz's Avatar
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    Re: rear disk question

    Quote Originally Posted by 88lxi-shortram View Post
    What I've been thinking is that the valve works by sensing pressure and then proportioning out the brakes to how it should be.... In theory the valve would still work with any size lines and any shape because the pressure would still be sensed and proportioned. I guess what I'm trying to say is no matter how the lines are the pressure will always be there
    You might have more faith in Honda's engineers than is warranted. All the prop valve does is reduce the pressure to the rear brakes by a specific percentage. What Stat1k is saying is that the brake system is designed to supply an exact hydraulic pressure to each wheel, so that you don't get brake pull. The length of the hard lines is a factor in those calculations. I don't think you'll go careening into a ditch if you change them, but you might notice some pull to one side and possibly uneven brake pad wear. I think the shape is only to keep them from being in the way.

    I like my rear discs, but the pedal does feel a little softer than it did with the drums. I think the drums might bite a little harder than the discs too.
    Last edited by Dr_Snooz; 03-27-2011 at 04:09 PM.
    Dr_Snooz

    "I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis


    1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap

    Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW

  11. #11
    LXi User 88lxi-shortram's Avatar
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    Re: rear disk question

    Ok I understand now. What I think I'm going to do is find out the length of the current lines, find a place were I can put the valve and bend my own lines. Once I do that I'll see how bad the brake Pull is and if I'm unhappy I'll start over
    88 lxi:
    shortram, msd blaster 2 coil, lowered 2.5" in the rear 3" in the front, stripped because race car XD

  12. #12

    Dr_Snooz's Avatar
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    Re: rear disk question

    Sounds like a good plan.
    Dr_Snooz

    "I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis


    1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap

    Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW

  13. #13
    LXi User 88lxi-shortram's Avatar
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    Re: rear disk question

    ok i talked to my teachers today about the relocation and the whole debate around the brake lines shape,size,etc. and they all agreed that the length, and turns of the lines dont make as big a difference as we think. he compared the bent lines and the coiled lines to a house with straight water piping. back then if a house had straight pipe if you turned your water on full blast and turned it off you would hear a loud clanking noise from the water returning back "downstream". he said the loops and things are to prevent that effect is the vlave is far from the MC. but if someone were to relocate ight under for instance, the lines wouldnt need much to return fluid and therefore the need for the loops is eliminated. BUT he did stress that the one thing people do wrong is buy lines with different diameter than OE. he said that thats what makes the problems is too much diameter or too little. so there is a little research to do about the diamter of the lines but other than the lines are free game for relocation.
    88 lxi:
    shortram, msd blaster 2 coil, lowered 2.5" in the rear 3" in the front, stripped because race car XD

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