I need help with an 89 LXi
I was planning to redo the exhaust with a full 2.5''.
I got NGK plugs already.
What is the black box? the governor..
i took the intake pipe off and made a quick ram intake and some nice response, with the factory intake... i may customize a duct to get fresh air
Any more ideas that are mildly inexpensive
if your doing a ram intake buy tubing to make it not only look better but perform a little better. its cheap like 30 bucks at autozone. all i did was buy a straight intake tube and a filter from them then i went to pepboys and bought a coupler that is 2.5 on one side and 3 on the other to make it fit right.
also another mildy inexpensive mod is a new manifold. theres info in other threads about how to make a b16 or a b18 manifold fit so look around a little as well.
others such as
cams
cam gears
if your auto.. a 5 speeed swap
there are many just look around and use the search key
88 lxi:
shortram, msd blaster 2 coil, lowered 2.5" in the rear 3" in the front, stripped because race car XD
i want to fab a cold air intake.
i want to wear out the trans first....but whats the auto worth
no point in doing much if your running auto. the trans will give out and you will be stuck doing a swap anyway. Not sure on your experience or knowledge but it shouldnt take more then a weekend and 1 buddy to do the swap. Also with a junkyard trip the only thing you need to buy is a new clutch kit because i wouldnt trust a junkyard clutch. I did my whole swap for under $500 and that was with a few new parts, if you research all the parts you could probably do it for less. The first 3 things to do other then a swap would be intake/header/exhaust. doing one or 2 wont really make much of a difference, you really need all 3 to complete the system to have maximum airflow in and out of the engine. Once you get those all done you can mess with a new cam grind, adj cam gear, B18 intake manifold, head work, etc.... The important thing is that you do all the mods in the right order to actually get any performance gains. for example, if you put on a B18 intake manifold without I/H/E you wont see much of a increase in power. Once you do the I/H/E then you can do the rest in any order really. Also make sure if you plan to do head work and a new cam grind try to do both at the same time, its cheaper and leaves you with less down time.
your totally correct.
what about bigger valves and fuel injectors? are their any cam kits that have this all together
and what about the programming? and what the black box?
this is all information easily searched, yes there are a couple of cam options available, and yes now bisimoto makes better springs to go with it. if you want to go bigger valves etc, you better prepare to shell out some serious bucks, this isn't like a civic or other popular Honda where mods are easyOriginally Posted by PeterNtheWolf
my suggestion would be this.... start off with a I/H/E and get a spare head from a junkyard or a member here. Once you have the money take the spare head and the parts you want installed to a shop and have it done. It will be cheaper for you if the head is already off the car and they can take more time on it. then take an afternoon when its all done the way you want and swap the head out. This way its the cheapest way to go and also gives you less down time. but like other members said, it will be a costly mod and the performance gains may not be worth it for you in the end. and if you plan on actually doing that much work to the motor you really need to do a 5-speed swap first. if you dont think you can do the swap just sell your auto and buy a manual because it does take a lot of knowledge to do the swap. IMO extensive motor mods without being manual is a complete waste of money, a 22 year old trans will not handle much at all.
i am doing the work myself, and what i cant do ill have my friend do. thats the way to keep things cheap.
Thats almost the only way to get the things done. not too many places will customize intake systems to make a CAI or do a complete 5-speed swap. If you want look at my cardomain and check out my NA setup, it worked really well and was semi inexpensive.
i am doing it, re read...
I know you are, all I said was its your only option. Legend master is selling a header for pretty cheap, that would be a good start for you. Do the custom intake your gonna make, the header from legend master and a exhaust system. that would be a great inexpensive start for you.
im not getting headers
y not?
88 lxi:
shortram, msd blaster 2 coil, lowered 2.5" in the rear 3" in the front, stripped because race car XD
id get them for 50 bucks, but i dont think anyone in their right mind would do that....
the stock header is doing an efficient job and i dont feel its worth getting, at the moment.
the stock one is perfect if you keep a stock intake and stock exhaust. If you are going to improve your intake or exhaust then a header is needed. if you do an intake and exhaust without a header then you are still creating that hour glass concept, the header would then be your center of the hour glass being restricted where your other ends ( the intake side and exhaust side) are opened up. My opinion is do all 3 or your just wasting money doing one or two.
2.5" is too big. Try 2.25"
what buy a header for this car for 50 bucks? are you for real? good luck finding one for less then 150, nothing personal but the more I read the more you contradict yourself
legend master is selling a used one for like 75.
Re: NA Tuner
no thanks, im going to keep the stock exhaust manifold, replacing cat and pipe with a 2.5 pipe, run a stock resonator and muffler....i want it quiet and more response.
You only need 2.5" if you plan on pushing over 200bhp 2.25" for between 170-200bhp and 2" is more than enough for 130bhp-170bhp as long as it's mandrel bent and designed well. Header would be benefitial one huge weight saving and two larger pipes that are more uniformly shaped, but if you are that keen to keep it at least enlarge the ports and clean up the casting inside, the secondary ports that join the down pipe can be opened up nicely and nice large downpipes can be joined to it then. If you don't you'll be wasting potential power and torque increases.
listen to the wise man ^^
Last edited by Tomisimo; 11-25-2010 at 07:40 AM.
Its prttey fnuny how you can raed tihs eintre snetnece with all tehse ellters out of palce...
My Build Thread
2.5 inch will be too big a 2.0L stock engine cant flow that much...you will lose all your backpresure...but its your car...you will learn that we give you advice that will help you benefit and not get headaches down the road
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
All your going to do is waste money and get no gain if you do that. Its simple, if you want to gain power then atleast do a intake, header and real full exhaust system. I would recommend other things like a cam, cam gear, B18 itake manifold, etc. But if you dont do atleast the I/H/E then your just wasting money. I dont think your actually going to listen to anyone on here because you feel you know what your talking about, so with that being said all I can say to you is good luck in your modding and have fun with the car.
we are trying to help you, but you won't listen, why would you use a stock exaust manifold, then a bigger pipe and converter, then restrict it back down to the stock resonator, and cork it up with the stock muffler? where is the more responsive part going to come in? ISP check on isle 7 !! you can use the stock manifold if you do work to it, but all you are creating is two hourglasses end to end
Last edited by lostforawhile; 11-26-2010 at 03:55 PM. Reason: Knock it off
why are you guys giving in and making recommendations, it's obvious he's not going to do what is being recommended.
Let him do what he wants and let it be.
These threads are getting repetitive and a waste of time
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