a quick brake question

[88lxi-shortram]

i need new rotors because some kid at school bumped the brake lathe and turned off the horizontal stabilzer and now i have grooves in my rotor that are far beyond discard. i was looking for rotors and found out i can get a set of drilled and slotted for 10$ more than oe rotors... but do i need a special caliper and pads for that or can i just use my oe calipers and pads?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Honda...ies#vi-content

[Oldblueaccord]

I am thinking that:

1. You can buy blanks pretty cheap. Brembo blanks should be less then 62$ a side.

2. Those rotors dont need anything modified that I can tell. They should work with stock rotors.

3. If you have access to a mill you can use a rotab and make your own slots. Just mill the slots down to the min. thinkness of the rotor. I made several sets that way. They work fine.


wp

[AccordEpicenter]

slotted and or dimpled seems to be the way to go. Ive heard guys with cross drilled rotors have cracking issues before

[MessyHonda]

when it comes to brakes...i only buy name brand stuff....i have not had a problem with EBC brakes.

[88lxi-shortram]

id love to buy name brand stuff but im on a budget and name brand is definitly not in my budget

[MessyHonda]

alright stick with napa or brembos

[lostforawhile]

alright stick with napa or brembos

i've not had luck with nappa one i keep warping them.

[Bglad420]

Brembo blanks + Hawk HP plus pads = tits money sex.

[Dr_Snooz]

Brembo blanks + Hawk HP plus pads = tits money sex.

Ordering now...

[Tdurr]

slotted and or dimpled seems to be the way to go. Ive heard guys with cross drilled rotors have cracking issues before

this.

altho ive never had any probs with my drilled rotors.

[stat1K]

i've had brembo's that were slotted and drilled by a third party company for about 2 years now, they were in one accident with the rex and are now on my sedan, along with pbr semi metallics. they work great, but to do over again, brembo blanks are just as good for daily driving and don't cost so much.

[ACE_14]

I've been using PowerStop crossdrilled rotors for years now with now problems at all.

[CPUNeck]

i've not had luck with nappa one i keep warping them.

I know most people just buy "remans", but rebuilding a caliper that is OE, in my opinion, yields a higher quality product. This is why I was warping rotors. My 88-LXi has 22 years under its belt and close to a quarter million miles! Stops on a dime now!

(haven't posted enough, so can't post pics, here's the link)
"picasaweb.google.com/CasperCPU/RebldFrontBrakes?authkey=Gv1sRgCPKA4ffI4rO8Jw#"

[markmdz89hatch]

the only thing that I would be aware of when buying not-so-name-brand rotors is whether or not they can be turned at least once or if they're throw away's. It's on you if you wanted to turn or toss a rotor if/when it warps, but the ones that cannot be turned even once usually means that they're manufactured at the thinnest spec allowed for the application, which will be prone to warpage much faster than a rotor with some extra meat on it.

As far as cross-drilling, slotting, dimpling, etc, most of that is purely cosmetic at this point. Yes the slotting does (theoretically) help with off-gassing of the pad when it heats up, but even there it's pretty much moot point because the new pad compounds have virtually zero off-gassing anyway. Our front rotors are already vented, which provides the most effective cooling for the rotor. The cross-drilling is actually a carry-over from race applications drilling out the cast iron rotor to reduce rotational mass, it actually had very little to do with additional cooling. Now it's just a cosmetic thing which I do admit looks damn cool. (I have factory drilled brembo's on my hatch)

Many will claim that a cross drilled rotor will crack, and they certainly are more prone to cracking simply because you're creating weak points in the surface, but in daily driving you should be just fine. Even then, if you start on a good brand (Brembo) rotor, the cross drilling (for daily driving) should still be fine. If you started racing on them, I'd go with blanks or slotted, but IMO I'd avoid drilled.

[88lxi-shortram]

it would be a daily driving application. with the exception of the times when i get throttle happy or some jack ass cuts me off... but youdo make a good point as far as creating weak points by drilling. i never thought bout it but it makes alot of sense now. lol it doesnt hurt that its cosmetically easy to look at eiter

[wh1skea]

I had drilled rotors on an 01 Taurus I had. Never had problems out of them, and always had people doing double-takes. But I think now, I'd go with slotted/dimpled. At least with the dimple, you can get the look without as much structural loss.

[Rainacide]

I found some EBC front slotted and dimpled rotors for $180, does that sound like a fair price. & it's pretty reliable huh?

[Tdurr]

EBC is good stuff.

[Rainacide]

Good stuff. buh do you say $180 is a fair price for a pair?

[PeterNtheWolf]

the only thing that I would be aware of when buying not-so-name-brand rotors is whether or not they can be turned at least once or if they're throw away's. It's on you if you wanted to turn or toss a rotor if/when it warps, but the ones that cannot be turned even once usually means that they're manufactured at the thinnest spec allowed for the application, which will be prone to warpage much faster than a rotor with some extra meat on it.

As far as cross-drilling, slotting, dimpling, etc, most of that is purely cosmetic at this point. Yes the slotting does (theoretically) help with off-gassing of the pad when it heats up, but even there it's pretty much moot point because the new pad compounds have virtually zero off-gassing anyway. Our front rotors are already vented, which provides the most effective cooling for the rotor. The cross-drilling is actually a carry-over from race applications drilling out the cast iron rotor to reduce rotational mass, it actually had very little to do with additional cooling. Now it's just a cosmetic thing which I do admit looks damn cool. (I have factory drilled brembo's on my hatch)

Many will claim that a cross drilled rotor will crack, and they certainly are more prone to cracking simply because you're creating weak points in the surface, but in daily driving you should be just fine. Even then, if you start on a good brand (Brembo) rotor, the cross drilling (for daily driving) should still be fine. If you started racing on them, I'd go with blanks or slotted, but IMO I'd avoid drilled.

i agree

[PeterNtheWolf]

loss of surface area