As I understand from schematics, the Blk/Yl wire coming off the ignition switch runs to splice to the coil, and to the Radio Frequency Inhibitor. From the RFI, it grounds to the ignitor/dizzy, then frame. This right for my 86' lxi??
Black/Yellow Wire Goes Where?
As I understand from schematics, the Blk/Yl wire coming off the ignition switch runs to splice to the coil, and to the Radio Frequency Inhibitor. From the RFI, it grounds to the ignitor/dizzy, then frame. This right for my 86' lxi?
Shaggy
FF II/ETC I
"What's my age again? What's my age again?"
Sounds about right. As far as I know, the radio noise condenser grounds through it's case, obviously not allowing IGN a direct path to ground.
ICHIBAN!
"Now, even more better!"
I tried taking out that condenser once just to see what would happen. Woops.
I'm Lost. What Did Happen?Originally Posted by 2ndGenGuy
Shaggy
FF II/ETC I
"What's my age again? What's my age again?"
This Is The 86-89' A-Series Prelude Power Distribution Pic. (From 86'-89' Prelude Manual{1 of 2}Page 656 of 705 total.)
This Is The 89' Accord Power Distribution From The 89' Accord Electrical Troubleshooting Guide.(Page 223 of 319 total)
Which Diagram Would Be Best Fitting For An 86' Accord lxi? The black/yellow wire shorted somewhere between the ignition switch and the coil/dizzy. I NEED to know which diagram is best explanatory. The Fact that both are for the a-series and on the prelude, the blk/yel wire runs/splices to the coil/RFI condenser and igniter vs. the accord showing only the coil/RFI condenser, then blk/yel connects to the igniter via seperate connection from coil. I'm quite confused. someone help please?
Shaggy
FF II/ETC I
"What's my age again? What's my age again?"
different distributors is what that looks like to me, and what do you mean the B/Y wire is shorted? do you mean open, as in not completing circuit?
Shorting means power going to ground and popping fuses, setting fires, melting shit etc
Open means there is something not getting power as it should.ie break in the wire or connection
The upper diagram (canadian model) and the bottom one from the '89 are fundamentally the same. The only difference between the middle diagram and the other two are that there is an igniter module external to the distributor. If you were to imagine taking the igniter module from the diagram, and placing it and it's wiring "inside" the distributor, you'd end up with the other two drawings.
Aren't there more than just the ignition circuits running off of that blk/y wire? Just wondering.
ICHIBAN!
"Now, even more better!"
Yes. It is open. Please excuse my reference as i have absolutely no electronics/electrical education/knowledge.
No power to the coil/dizzy etc. Running a red wire with alligator clips from the ignition switch blk/yel connection to the blk/yel coil connection solves this power problem. It'd probably help a ton if i knew how to use a multimeter/voltmeter, or even had one for that matter. All i've ever used is one of those connection lights you touch to a wire and ground the other wire that comes out of the light, and it'll light if you have power.
More connections to the blk/yel wire? All I've found are these pages I've posted. Could the other connections connect to another colored power wire from the ignition?
I've also noticed, are all the positive wires striped and the grounds solid on these cars?
Last edited by firefighterwhite89; 01-12-2011 at 07:34 PM.
Shaggy
FF II/ETC I
"What's my age again? What's my age again?"
Defective IGN switch? It happens...
ICHIBAN!
"Now, even more better!"
yes it does, you can recondition those without replacing them sometimes...
Also there looks to be a fuse there in that one circuit diagram...
If you're to the point where you're running alternate wires to make stuff work, then you are definitely not in the group that "knows absolutely nothing." And, you're brave enough to start looking stuff up using a schematic, so you are moving ahead at a good pace.
Time to visit Radio Shack and get a proper multimeter. I'd spend around 30 or 40 bucks, get one that's not a toy. There are some that look like a big credit card, but the connections won't last and they will give service in approximate proportion to their price. Get something that has some meat to it, so when you inevitably drop it, or pull a lead out roughly, or put 110v into the meter which is set for 12v, you won't end up with a cooked p.o.s.
There's many things you can do with a multimeter that you can't do with your wire and bulb. Concerned about alternator health? Battery should show about 14v across the terminals when the car is running, and about 12 volts when stopped. You need a meter for that. Etc.
Ok. I'll go get one here after the ice melts off the roads. Do/can they read micro farads too?
Shaggy
FF II/ETC I
"What's my age again? What's my age again?"
what teh fark is a micro fartad?not sure where that applies...
well I picked up a couple of meters at harbor freight, very cheap and so far have worked well around the house since two of my high dollar meters crapped out for no apparent reason. For five bucks, after taxes by the way, you can pick one up there. Not a wasted of money at all, and you can graduate to other meters as you understand how they may work for things you encounter diagnosing.
A farad is a measurement of capacitance. Generally, no. However, they do read in ohms, which is a measurement of resistance. Far more useful when diagnosing circuit problems.
ICHIBAN!
"Now, even more better!"
OH I forgot that was name but just the symbol [I]f[/I
Got it figured?
ICHIBAN!
"Now, even more better!"
Yeah. My bad it took so long to reply. Hughes Satellite Internet isn't WaF.
Shaggy
FF II/ETC I
"What's my age again? What's my age again?"
Cool, keep that thing alive. Even with all the pepto bismol coloured bits on it
ICHIBAN!
"Now, even more better!"
LMAO. I plan on it. Hey, i love the pepto bismol pink color. And you'd be surprised the compliments i get from girls about it.Cool, keep that thing alive. Even with all the pepto bismol coloured bits on it
Shaggy
FF II/ETC I
"What's my age again? What's my age again?"
Shouldn't I have voltage coming out of my Radio Frequency Condenser? It does have voltage on the way in. Just none out. But...It is supposed to be the ground. I'm new with a multi-meter. Bear with me. A little help though?
Shaggy
FF II/ETC I
"What's my age again? What's my age again?"
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