Results 1 to 8 of 8

Thread: good header info from S&S headers (R.I.P. 2010)

  1. #1
    3Geez Veteran lostforawhile's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Vehicle
    86 hatchback, 1990 Lincoln Towncar
    Location
    nowhere GA
    Posts
    15,401

    good header info from S&S headers (R.I.P. 2010)

    Some good info from the S&S site before the site is gone, it's really sad to see a long time company like that become a victim of the economy, their phones are now disconnected, so the site will be gone soon.
    can someone please sticky this great info?



    Headers 101 ( Header Basics - A Guide To Understanding )

    You have probably heard words like: back pressure, scavenging, tuned length, merged collector, rotational firing order, compatible combination and many others that meant something, but how they relate to a header may be a little vague. This article should give you a basic understanding of how a header works, what the terminology means, and how it plays a part in the header's performance gains.

    The first misconception that needs to be cleared up is that a header relieves backpressure, but a certain amount of backpressure is needed for optimum performance. Just the opposite is true. A good header not only relieves the backpressure, but goes one step further and creates a vacuum in the system. When the next cylinder's exhaust valve opens, the vacuum in the system pulls the exhaust out of the cylinder. This is what the term "Scavenging" means.

    The first consideration is the proper tube diameter. Many people think "Bigger is Better", but this is not the case. The smallest diameter that will flow enough air to handle the engine's c.c. at your desired Red Line R.P.M. should be used. This small diameter will generate the velocity (air speed) needed to "Scavenge" at low R.P.M.s. If too small a diameter is used the engine will pull hard at low R.P.M.s but at some point in the higher R.P.M.s the tube will not be able to flow as much air as the engine is pumping out, and the engine will "sign off" early, not reaching its potential peak R.P.M. This situation would require going one size larger in tube diameter.

    The second consideration is the proper tube length. The length directly controls the power band in the R.P.M. range. Longer tube lengths pull the torque down to a lower R.P.M. range. Shorter tubes move the power band up into a higher R.P.M. range. Engines that Red Line at 10,000 R.P.M. would need short tube lengths about 26" long. Engines that are torquers and Red Line at 5,500 R.P.M.s would need a tube length of 36". This is what is meant by the term "Tuned Length". The tube length is tuned to make the engine operate at a desired R.P.M. range.

    The third consideration is the collector outlet diameter and extension length. This is where major differences occur between four cylinder engines and V-8 engines. The optimum situation is the four cylinder because of it's firing cycle. Every 180 degree of crankshaft rotation there is one exhaust pulse entering the collector. This is ideal timing because, as one pulse exits the collector, the next exhaust valve is opening and the vacuum created in the system pulls the exhaust from the cylinder. In this ideal 180 degree cycling the collector outlet diameter only needs to be 20% larger than the primary tube diameter. (Example: 1 3/4" primary tubes need a 2" collector outlet diameter.) The rule of thumb here is two tube sizes. This keeps the velocity fast to increase scavenging, especially at lower R.P.M.s. Going to a larger outlet diameter will hurt the midrange and low R.P.M. torque.

    The amount of straight in the collector extension can move the engines torque up or down in the R.P.M. range. Longer extension length will pull the torque down into the midrange.

    Engines that "Red Line" at 10,000 R.P.M. would only need 2" of straight between the collector and the megaphone. This is just enough length to straighten out the air flow before it enters the megaphone. This creates an orifice action that enhances exhaust velocity.

    In the case of V-8 firing order, the five pulses fire alternately back and forth from left to right collector, giving the ideal 180 degree firing cycle. Then it fires two in succession into the left collector, then two in succession into the right collector. If the proper collector outlet diameter is being used (two sizes larger than primaries) the two pulses in succession load up the collector with more air than it can flow. This results in a very strong midrange torque, but causes the engine to "sign off" early, not reaching its potential peek R.P.M. The improper firing order on a V-8 engine results in the need to use large diameter collectors so the engine will perform well at high R.P.M.s. Unfortunately the large diameter collectors cause a tremendous drop in air velocity, resulting in less scavenging through the entire R.P.M. range.

    Often cams are used with extended valve timing to help the exhaust cycling. This results in valve timing overlap (Intake and Exhaust valves both open at T.D.C.) which causes a "Reversion"cycle in the exhaust. When this happens, exhaust actually backs up into the cylinder causing intake air to be pushed back out the intake. This reversion causes "Standoff" (fuel blowing out of the Intake) at low R.P.M.s. This whole improper cycling has resulted in a number of "Cure Alls" to help stop this reversion and standoff.

    The plentum intake was created to stop the fuel "Standoff". Then came "Anti Reversionary" Cones in the exhaust tubes, and stepped tube diameter in the header, extended collector lengths and even plentums in the exhaust tubes.

    In this chain of events beginning with improper firing order, a series of cures has developed, each one causing a new problem.

    The optimum cure to this whole problem is to correct the exhaust firing cycle. The two cylinders that fire in succession into each collector have to be separated. This can be done partially by a "Tri-Y" header, where the four primary tubes from each bank merge into two secondary tubes (separating the two pulses firing in succession) and finally collect into a single collector. This type of header helps, but the two pulses are still coming back together at the collector.

    The second optimum cure is to cross the two center tubes from each bank, across the engine running them into the collector on the opposite side. This makes the firing cycle in each collector 180 degrees apart, the same as a four cylinder engine. Once this firing order is achieved, the small collector outlet diameter can be used and the "High Velocity Scavenging" at low R.P.M.s cures the reversion problems and eliminates the need for extreme cam duration.

    This sounds so easy, you are probably asking why wasn't this done from the start?

    If you have ever seen a set of 180 degree headers you would understand.

    On today's cars, with space virtually nonexistent, crossing four tubes either under the oil pan or around the front or rear of the engine presents major problems. On racing applications where it is possible, there is still the problem of keeping the tube length down to a reasonable 32" long. If that's not enough challenge, then try to arrange the tubes into each collector so they fire in a "Rotational Firing" pattern. Then you have, what has been called "A Bundle of Snakes".

    Arranging the tubes to fire rotationally adds to the scavenging capabilities. The exhaust gas exiting one tube, passing across the opening of the tube directly beside it, creates more suction on that tube than it would on a tube on the opposite side of the collector.

    The next problem is "Turbulence" in the collector. When four round tubes are grouped together in a square pattern, so a collector can be attached, you notice a gapping hole in the center of the four tubes. The standard method in manufacturing headers is to cap this hole off with a square plate. This plate in the center of the four tubes creates dead air space, or turbulence, disrupting the high velocity in the collector. This problem is solved by using a "Merge Collector". This collector is formed from four tubes, cut at approximately an 8 degree angle on two sides. When the tubes are all fitted together they form a collector with a "Pyramid" in the center. This has eliminated the need for the square plate and has taken up some of the volume inside the collector, speeding up the air velocity.

    Other methods of curing this problem are: fabricating a pyramid out of sheet metal and welding it over the hole between the tubes, or squaring the tubes on two sides so they fit together forming a "+" weld in the center eliminating the hole all together.

    You can see that there are a great many factors that go into making a good header. When the header, intake system, and cam timing are all designed to operate to their maximum in the same R.P.M. range, then you have a "Compatible Combination". This combination can be tuned to deliver maximum power at any desired R.P.M. range.

    These are some of the "Basics" you need to know about building a good high performance header. There are many other adjustments that can be made to fine tune a header, but this should give you a basic understanding of how all the components work together.
    Last edited by lostforawhile; 01-09-2011 at 10:18 PM.



  2. #2
    3Geez Veteran lostforawhile's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Vehicle
    86 hatchback, 1990 Lincoln Towncar
    Location
    nowhere GA
    Posts
    15,401

    Re: good header info from S&S headers (R.I.P. 2010)

    Found this letter from co-owner Betty McCalla on MicroRacing.com



    "Dear S&S Headers, Inc., Customers and Vendors:

    Anybody want to buy a header company? This is one of the most difficult letters I have ever had to write. Due to the ongoing poor economic conditions and continued shortfall of revenue, it looks like we are becoming yet another casualty of this recession/depression. Our building owners worked with us as long as they could but unfortunately have now chosen to pull the plug. They have exercised their right to change the locks and demand all past due rent in full, which we are unable to provide at the present time. Therefore, it is with great disappointment and regret that we announce that our business is currently closed.

    We are trying to legally regain control of our physical property so that we may satisfy work-in-process orders and return property that belongs to our customers. I will keep you informed of our progress.

    Thank you so very much for your continued support and the many years we have worked together. It has been a 41-year journey for S&S, and we deeply appreciate all of our customers and vendors and wish you continued success.

    Sincerely,

    Betty McCalla

    S&S Headers, Inc."

  3. #3

    cygnus x-1's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Vehicle
    '87 Prelude DX, '00 Nissan Frontier, '87 Suzuki Samurai DIESEL!
    Location
    Chicago area
    Posts
    2,267

    Re: good header info from S&S headers (R.I.P. 2010)

    Oh wow, that sucks. Does that mean my S&S will be a collectible now.

    This makes me wonder though. OBX now makes a stainless header for the A20 that looks VERY much like an S&S.

    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OBX-H...item27b4bf3972


    Coincidence?


    C|

  4. #4


    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Vehicle
    2005 ES2 Civic, 2018 Toyota 4Runner SR5 Premium 4x4
    Location
    AZ
    Posts
    2,957

    Re: good header info from S&S headers (R.I.P. 2010)

    man i wish someone would make a cheap 4-1 for the civic, dc is the only company that makes it anymore and i'll be damned if i turn out like you guys paying 400 for standard header lol...

    i can buy a bisi copy for 265 so i may do that. i cant' see that obx from work but i'm going to take a look when i get home.
    dead white and blue

  5. #5
    3Geez Veteran lostforawhile's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Vehicle
    86 hatchback, 1990 Lincoln Towncar
    Location
    nowhere GA
    Posts
    15,401

    Re: good header info from S&S headers (R.I.P. 2010)

    Quote Originally Posted by stat1K View Post
    man i wish someone would make a cheap 4-1 for the civic, dc is the only company that makes it anymore and i'll be damned if i turn out like you guys paying 400 for standard header lol...

    i can buy a bisi copy for 265 so i may do that. i cant' see that obx from work but i'm going to take a look when i get home.
    the OBX looks just like the S&S but until everything is measured on both, it's hard to tell if it's actually the same, I've bought S&S headers in the past, always been great stuff, they have a lot of research and development into each one, not just some tubes welded together

  6. #6


    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Vehicle
    2005 ES2 Civic, 2018 Toyota 4Runner SR5 Premium 4x4
    Location
    AZ
    Posts
    2,957

    Re: good header info from S&S headers (R.I.P. 2010)

    i took a look at it. it looks good, i love that they're such a long tube 4-1, for the price you can't beat it!
    dead white and blue

  7. #7
    itzdave's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Vehicle
    1990 Mazda Miata
    Location
    Missoula, Montana
    Posts
    1,869

    Re: good header info from S&S headers (R.I.P. 2010)

    i just an OBX, so ill be able to tell ya how it is pretty soon...
    Last edited by itzdave; 01-06-2011 at 11:56 AM. Reason: uh cuz

  8. #8
    3Geez Veteran lostforawhile's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Vehicle
    86 hatchback, 1990 Lincoln Towncar
    Location
    nowhere GA
    Posts
    15,401

    Re: good header info from S&S headers (R.I.P. 2010)

    when I can afford it, I called Jet Hot and he said he could coat the S&S for around 120, i'm not worried about it right now, it's going to be a few months, they last forever with that ceramic coating. they coat the insides too for better flow, have to pay some bills first and pay some people I owe, state of Georgia owes me over 700 in back unemployment, I hadn't gotten a check in three weeks, finally got one but it went for rent, no telling when or if I'll ever see it, they are impossible to deal with

Similar Threads

  1. good turbo? info needed
    By labeledsk8r in forum Forced Induction
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 06-12-2009, 07:00 PM
  2. Megan Header, how good are they?
    By F22B1VTEC in forum Performance
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 09-06-2007, 01:16 PM
  3. good header for 87' ACCORD carbed, nice
    By SIBILANTx in forum Performance
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 01-30-2004, 06:21 AM
  4. lots of good plug info from grassroots good for faq
    By 1988starter in forum Performance
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 08-25-2003, 09:03 PM
  5. Good info on Headlight bulbs
    By OldSchoolSwap in forum Performance
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 07-15-2002, 03:40 PM

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
This website uses cookies
We use cookies to store session information to facilitate remembering your login information, to allow you to save website preferences, to personalise content and ads, to provide social media features and to analyse our traffic. We also share information about your use of our site with our social media, advertising and analytics partners.
     
Links monetized by VigLink