Found this header on ebay. Interesting design. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OBX-E...item2c5990c740 what do you think? Would it fit?
Found this header on ebay. Interesting design. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/OBX-E...item2c5990c740 what do you think? Would it fit?
theres a thread on this already, and yes it should work i would imagine. you'd be the first with an accord to buy one because the header just surfaced about 3 months ago.
dead white and blue
when you get it are you good with measurements? it's a copy of the S&S , which just went out of business, I'm interested in seeing if it's exactly the same. I especially would like to see a picture of how the tubes come together inside of the collector, if there is a flat spot in the center or they are angled together. I would get rid of the ball and socket joint, and get a stainless flex coupling. you can get them reasonable on ebay. you'll also have to make a hanger bracket like factory where it attaches behind the oil pan. make sure to take lots of pictures
Last edited by lostforawhile; 01-05-2011 at 02:44 PM.
nice find. too bad they don't make a turbo manifoldi would like to get one of those but it seems like a waist since i wanna go turbo eventually. anyone port thier stock mani? i've got 2 1/4 straight pipe and a fartcan(came w/car) but the mani is definetley the weak link in the system
thanks good to know. have to get the details from you sometime
it's just a matter of cleaning up the casting and smoothing everything out, if you have the tools you can mirror polish it, but thats a lot of work, the point of that is to reflect heat. you will do better to get a set of the OBX headers, there's only so much you can do to an iron manifold
the obx is better. lighter and flows ALOT better. i was only gonna port mine because i can't justify buying it just yo turn around and buy a custom turbo mani. i already plan on port matching the im and cleang up the runners in the head. thought it might gain a little power with maybe a stage1 triflow![]()
I'm going to be running the S&S headers, a porter muffler, and I already have been running the rest of the exhaust for years, I'm working on the idea of a dual outlet side exit under the rear bumper side right now, eventually when the car is ready to go back on the road, I'm going to have the headers jet hot coated, this stops corrosion and also helps insulate the headers, they normally also coat the insides, this will gain you a horsepower or two, it has to do with heat transfer, it's complicated. Of course with a turbo you don't use headers, they wouldn't do anything, because of the restriction of the turbocharger in the exhaust flow. That's a great deal on a set of stainless headers, paceshitters cost almost as much now, and they are a different design, plus they have crappy welds. the 4-1 design will work great on these engines, because they generate a lot of their torque low in the power band, that's where a 4-1 long tube header helps the most Even the stainless headers will benefit from a jet hot coating, as will everything under the hood, the very basic idea is to help keep the exhaust gasses as hot as possible, it has to do with the scavenging , maby someone can explain it in more detail
i seem to remember a post on adapting a turbo flange on a stock manifold; what do you think lost? not worth it?
i recentley seen one that still needed some welding for $125. not bad imo.
I saw the DC sports dual tips at advance, what happened to that company? they are complete garbage like APC, says fits 1 1/4 to 2 3/4 inch pipe, all it has are little spacer blocks that put pressure on the exhaust pipe, no type of seal whatsoever, They used to make good stuff but everything I saw looked really cheap
you can make a turbo manifold with not much effort if you can weld. you can buy a stock A20 flange and a set or turbo flanges. then you can make a log style manifold with 2 90 degree and 2 straight peices of pipe and tie them together in the center and weld on the turbo flange. heres the one from my old accord http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2593731/1988-honda-accord
You can buy all the flanges and pipe for under like $50. its just think gas pipe with the threads cut off. 2 90's on the ends, 2 straight pieces like 3" or sofor the center 2 and then just bringing it all together into a the turbo flange. You could also probably buy one thats close to the A20 and cut the flange off and then weld on the A20 flange. shouldnt be too hard to just move the tubes over. You could do the same for a header too.
Not true. I have a 2g Prelude, and a 3gee. But the header is still sitting in my extra room, not on either car.So if he hurried he could still be the first to install one.
Best pics I could get at the moment, but the pipes are not angled together.
I, too, would recommend a flex pipe instead of the ball joint.
Also, here is the thread with info on the A20 flanges. The Weirtech flanges are $20 plus shipping, and would be great for a do it yourself job. I picked up 2 and will probably just do a basic log for my first try.
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=69537
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