I never had an issue with it. its so much lighter then the stock one that it doesnt need as much support. but adding one wont hurt at all.
I never had an issue with it. its so much lighter then the stock one that it doesnt need as much support. but adding one wont hurt at all.
OBX stuff isnt bad-i have one on my civic that I logged damn near 40k on and its never cracked or had any issues.
How is low end torq differs from stock? I was thinking of customizing one for B20a with a custom cut flange to the head.
Its prttey fnuny how you can raed tihs eintre snetnece with all tehse ellters out of palce...
My Build Thread
the increase will be moderate-its going to shift your powerband more than anything,dont expect large HP/TQ inceases from hondas.Originally Posted by Tomisimo
now that OBX header looks pretty damn good IMO-that's prob the best looking header I have seen the the accords and the price is excellent-has anyone picked one up yet?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/86-89...-/390280282495
The OBX one looks pretty sweet considering the price!
Good job on switching out for the flange Tim, it looks like it's a bit long so I hope you can still get your hands in there.
Keep it up!
i'm working on the other half now, plenty of room to work under the hatchbacks, i have to modify the factory flange piece and bore it out so it's 2 inches not 1.5, It's going to get a flex pipe and a porter muffler in the center of the car. these cars might pick up more torque and horsepower then you think, the main power increase honda got in the lxi was from the different manifold and exhaust. it's built a lot like a 4-2-1 header, since these cars only have one exhaust valve, the extra scavenging will help a lot.
I forgot to take my camera card, so I'll take pictures tomorrow, this is what I'm working on.
I had to cut off the pipe on the one side, and the nasty muffler shop welds,
then take an angle grinder to grind off the welds on the side of the flange, after I did that, I milled off most of the weld in the milling machine, then removed the rest of the pipe through the flange with a chisel. after that I put it in the surface grinder, started working on that at 4:30 looked up at the clock and it was 5:45, will wear your arm out cranking that thing. what I'm doing now is getting it ready to weld a 2 inch stainless pipe to, I had to position the pipe very carefully so it's on center and I have it clamped down ready to weld, once it's welded the pipe goes in the lathe so i can bore out the center of the flange, it's important to get it as close to center as possible, so it turns properly. the existing flange is only 1.5 inches, and it needs to go up to 2 inches. I'm doing this to retain the existing graphite O ring that seals the flange. I will take some pictures tomorrow, I'm going to put the card in the camera now. You can see how much material is between the sealing O ring and the old center piece of pipe, all that is going.
Last edited by lostforawhile; 01-18-2011 at 06:36 PM.
the reason I'm going to all the trouble, is this lets me use the flange in the kit, which is very well made, even cheap flanges have gotten outrageous in price, I would have just made another but the groove for the O ring is an odd profile and I didn't have a tool to cut a groove like it. Just using what I already have, it's a very heavy factory flange, so I'm basically redoing it, Even the prices on the flex coupling have gotten nuts, a few years ago I paid 15 bucks for one that still works, now they are running around 27 bucks, even ebay with shipping runs around that, i'll have to wait until I have some money before I can get one, I did finally find a Nappa one, but it's even 20 bucks
Last edited by lostforawhile; 01-17-2011 at 09:39 PM.
anyone know which Honda's have the wideband O2 sensors? i can get them for almost nothing from the junkyard, I think it's 0bd2 and up cars, I have two O2 sensor fittings on this header, I'll put in the wiring for both running into the car, this would let me switch between banks
Pretty tight fit there. I wonder if you'll get little dimples on the pipes from the engine moving around in the bay.
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
really the only car i'm aware of was the 92-95 VX hatchbacks. they came stock with a five wire o2.
dead white and blue
I have an almost solid dogbone, and I'm waiting on those metal pieces to do the new front mounts, my engine doesn't move much
flange ready to be welded, I got this so perfect on center it didn't even wobble in the lathe at 600 rpm,
this is the seal side of the flange before any machine work
thanks to Bobby Brock for this awesome weld
this is how much of a difference there is between the factory inlet size and the 2 inch pipe
not anymore!! i kept the step of course to retain the factory crush gasket,
I flared the end of the two inch pipe so it's a nice smooth transition, that flange material is some hard stuff, took a carbide insert to bore it out
Last edited by lostforawhile; 01-31-2011 at 01:44 AM.
yes I have one. Not installed yet though.
Lost, I put the pics up of the inside of the collector in that other thread,
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=74701
How does it compare to the S&S?
they look about the same inside, it's interesting the obx one popped up about the same time that S&S went under
That looks like a nice S&S header! I would cut that flange off the end & weld a flex pipe in.
Last edited by 88Accord-DX; 01-18-2011 at 08:32 PM.
.
i just welded the flange in, thats what the flex pipe attaches to
I got some pieces fitted, possibly tomorrow they get welded, it's the wierd twisted piece where the header pipe comes under the car, but doesn't line up with the underbody heat shield, where it goes to one side and up at the same time, pain in the ass to make those bends, have a bunch of flared short sections of mandrel bent tube, just have to keep fitting them together, and twisting them until a piece of straight pipe lines up in the heatshield, then marking it, once it's marked it can be put back together exactly. the heat shield has to go after this piece, no way to line it up before
OK here's the section where the pipe comes off the header, goes to the left, then up at the same time, the flex pipe attaches to this, it's pretty close to the weird twisted factory bend. This took a ton of fitting pieces together and flaring, finding out it didn't fit, then doing it again. Thanks to David for welding this thing together for me.
Last edited by lostforawhile; 01-31-2011 at 01:48 AM.
I discovered this nice piece i made, even after making sure the marks were all lined up, I somehow welded the flange on upside down, so once again,I chopped it off, flared it again, and it's tacked, this time it fits!! augghhh!!!
now another problem, the headers hit the %$##@&&* cross member!! i'm going to have to gind off a section of cross member, then weld in some steel to reinforce the cut section
Last edited by lostforawhile; 01-31-2011 at 01:49 AM.
i would box in the lower sub frame if your going to cut it , to me that piece of steel doesn't look very strong. looks like you wouldn't have to take much off of it to make it fit decent
1989 Accord Lx-i hatchback (current DD project)
1986 Olds Cutlass 442 clone (never ending project)
3Geez resident body man
Owner of Wreck-less auto body
I'll have pictures up in a bit, I cut off that entire edge of the lip where it hit, then split a tube, fit it over the cut edge, spot welded one end, then hammered it along the edge, spot welding it as I went. it now has a curve in the cross member to clear the header tubes. I'm going to start making a cardboard template in a bit for a brace piece to weld across it Monday, should be stronger then original when I'm done
here's the cross member, the cardboard is where the brace will be.
I couldn't live without modeling clay and cardboard,
more stuff
Last edited by lostforawhile; 01-31-2011 at 01:51 AM.
Dual tip exhaust...? : Hmm:
But looking good lostforawhiile
old school magnaflow dual tip side exhaust, bumper isn't painted yet, but you get the idea,
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