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Thread: '86 Hatch to join the ranks

  1. #26
    SEi User Demon1024's Avatar
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    Re: '86 Hatch to join the ranks

    Your fan doesn't run all the time does it?
    like before the car starts and the key is in run?
    If not your thermo is most likely the problem still,
    get the higher temp one. Hopefully someone will also say it's not gonna hurt it. I recently experienced an instant new thermo failure myself.

    Same thing car will drop right back down heat on temp gauge. Most commonly from a stop. Or when i stomp on the gas, or at constant higher rpm's while moving
    Last edited by Demon1024; 01-23-2011 at 02:16 AM.

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  2. #27
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    Re: '86 Hatch to join the ranks

    @Dr_Snooz
    I changed it because the needle would not move, and i didnt get heat ever

    @Demon1024
    Fan only kicks in when the engine is at operating temp

  3. #28
    LXi User -$MOKIN-'s Avatar
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    Re: '86 Hatch to join the ranks

    If the fan kicks on when the car gets to temp then the thermostat is doing its job.
    IM still plugged on why the damn thing runs cold . u need to let it run watch the fan kick on and off a couple times then drive it until it shows it cold then pull over and feel the lines to see if there hot. that's what i would do. is your heat on the inside working ever or what i thought u said it would work then when i drove it wouldn't . i dunno dude cant get down to the bottom of this for ya . did u make sure u had the right 50/50 coolant mix in there?
    if ur fan is kicking on and off then its working right your just getting the wrong readings . Thats what u need to worry about and if the heat inside the car doesn't work it wouldn't be because your thermostat is wrong its something else . The fan coming on and off is good.

  4. #29
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    Re: '86 Hatch to join the ranks

    Yes the heat will work, although not blazing hot when all the way warmed up

  5. #30
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    Re: '86 Hatch to join the ranks

    Ok so here are my results
    Temp outside isnt bad, at 27
    I let the car warm up,here it is at operating temp
    http://i55.tinypic.com/vz8mwx.jpg
    I checked the hoses going to the heater valve, one was very hot, the other was just hot, as well as the radiator hose and cap
    After about 10min of driving the needle was back to the bottom, it stays just above the last white line. Hoses were warmish, and the radiator cap was cold

  6. #31
    3Geez Veteran Pico's Avatar
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    Re: '86 Hatch to join the ranks

    sounds like your radiator may be clogged, when you touch the sides of the radiator they should be hot on the top side and bottom side.
    If not then it may be partially clogged

  7. #32
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    Re: '86 Hatch to join the ranks

    Alright, so today I put in the new thermostat, with correct rubber gasket.
    Now I am not sure if it made any difference as I also bled the system, but this time we waited as there was a sudden rush of coolant and then bubbles, so after a few minutes all(or the majority) of the air was out.

    I just got home from work, I warmed the car up a little bit, drove it home(5min)
    and not only did the needle not drop, but in fact, rose a bit!

    Ill be sure to post if my heating problem is fixed after I warm it up completely and do some driving tonight.

    Thank you everyone for the advice, tips, support, and welcome. Lets hope this problem is solved.

    -Kyle

  8. #33
    LXi User -$MOKIN-'s Avatar
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    Re: '86 Hatch to join the ranks

    word sweet. just make sure after you drive it. that the gauge is workin right. The heat is blowing hot air. and ur fan is kickin on and off and on make sure it comes on and off a couple times. GLAD it WORKED BRO.. LOVE THE MILAGE . what else is wrong with it? i seen your check engine light is on?

  9. #34
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    Re: '86 Hatch to join the ranks

    Thanks,
    That would be the parking brake light, next think im doing is probably changing the valve cover gasket, it looks to have some oil or something that seeped out in time, then get the muffler fixed so it doesn't rattle as much. Then new tires.

  10. #35
    LXi User -$MOKIN-'s Avatar
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    Re: '86 Hatch to join the ranks

    When u change the valve cover gasket u have to torque it to specs or it will re leak not for sure the weight on it but pico might know what you need to torque it too. ya should drive it to the drive in car wash then leave it running and pressure wash the motor area.

  11. #36

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    Re: '86 Hatch to join the ranks

    7 ft-lbs.
    Dr_Snooz

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  12. #37
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    Re: '86 Hatch to join the ranks

    Just when I thought id have some time to breath, PGMFI come on,
    its randomly reoccurring, usually after about 10-20 min of driving, for now I just restart the car at a red light. next time it happens ill check the error code lights
    Your Honda, isn't my Honda.

  13. #38

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    Re: '86 Hatch to join the ranks

    Check it now. The ECU will retain the code.
    Dr_Snooz

    "I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis


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  14. #39
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    Re: '86 Hatch to join the ranks

    12 flashes

    12 LED FLASH(s) 85-98 Accord
    EGR Lift Sensor (Exhaust Gas Recirculation)
    defective circuit or unplugged / defective sensor
    Your Honda, isn't my Honda.

  15. #40

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    Re: '86 Hatch to join the ranks

    The EGR troubleshooting sequence begins on p. 12-79 of this manual. Proceed through it and let us know what you learn.
    Dr_Snooz

    "I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis


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  16. #41
    LXi User ecogabriel's Avatar
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    Re: '86 Hatch to join the ranks

    Quote Originally Posted by -$MOKIN- View Post
    When u change the valve cover gasket u have to torque it to specs or it will re leak not for sure the weight on it but pico might know what you need to torque it too. ya should drive it to the drive in car wash then leave it running and pressure wash the motor area.
    Ditto for the pressure washing -you may pick up on other leak sources.
    Try to replace the valve cover grommets when doing the gasket; they are most likely hardened after 20+ years under the hood.

    Quote Originally Posted by SkateK610 View Post
    Just when I thought id have some time to breath, PGMFI come on,
    its randomly reoccurring, usually after about 10-20 min of driving, for now I just restart the car at a red light. next time it happens ill check the error code lights
    Quote Originally Posted by Dr_Snooz View Post
    The EGR troubleshooting sequence begins on p. 12-79 of this manual. Proceed through it and let us know what you learn.
    The manual will explain how the system works; you need to understand it BEFORE getting to work on the car. Unfortunately, 86-87 LX-i have some slight differences in how the EGR system is operated and make the system a little more difficult to understand.

    Note: you'll make sense of what I am writing once you read the manual and opened the dreadful "black box")
    1) no hose #17 for 88-89s, hose #17 from intake pipe to the black box
    2) EGR solenoid is different
    Vacuum canister (a white-yellow cylindric thing) has 2 hoses attached (88-89) v. 3 hoses (86-87). You'll see it attached to a white and green dish-shaped thing (vacuum modulator)

    Please check if your hose #17 is attached to the intake pipe running from the air filter box to the throttle body. If it is hanging without being attached, I would suspect that dirt have partially clogged the EGR vacuum canister (the whitish cylinder) or the vacuum modulator making the system to work more slowly and the ECU picks that up. This happened to me a few months ago and cleaning the canister solved the problem

    Read the manual as suggested especially if you have to pass smog you need to understand how the system works.
    If it ain't broke... I fix it!

  17. #42
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    Re: '86 Hatch to join the ranks

    Could this be caused due to lack of catalytic converter?
    Your Honda, isn't my Honda.

  18. #43
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    Re: '86 Hatch to join the ranks

    if your interested i have the 86 technical service manual
    pm me

  19. #44
    LXi User ecogabriel's Avatar
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    Re: '86 Hatch to join the ranks

    Quote Originally Posted by SkateK610 View Post
    Could this be caused due to lack of catalytic converter?
    NO. Our cars do not have a way to check how the catalytic converter works.

    Code 12 refers to the EGR system; the ECU checks opening of the EGR valve (the sensor w/the 3 wires on top of it) v. internal pre-set tables and triggers a code when there is a discrepancy between both.

    Because different things with the system may trigger the code you need to read the service manual. If you understand how it works from the 89 manual you'll be fine.

    The only thing you may not find is a way to test the EGR sensor without using the special tools in the service manual. I figured out a way to test it using a multimeter and a vacuum pump in case the problem is in there -there must be a posting somewhere in this site.

    Some online stuff you might want to read to get an idea of EGR systems in general

    http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/dec97/egr.htm
    http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/nov2001/techtips.htm
    http://www.aa1car.com/library/egr.htm
    Last edited by ecogabriel; 01-30-2011 at 10:20 AM. Reason: brain dead
    If it ain't broke... I fix it!

  20. #45

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    Re: '86 Hatch to join the ranks

    Quote Originally Posted by ecogabriel View Post
    The manual will explain how the system works; you need to understand it BEFORE getting to work on the car. Unfortunately, 86-87 LX-i have some slight differences in how the EGR system is operated and make the system a little more difficult to understand.

    Note: you'll make sense of what I am writing once you read the manual and opened the dreadful "black box")
    1) no hose #17 for 88-89s, hose #17 from intake pipe to the black box
    2) EGR solenoid is different
    Vacuum canister (a white-yellow cylindric thing) has 2 hoses attached (88-89) v. 3 hoses (86-87). You'll see it attached to a white and green dish-shaped thing (vacuum modulator)

    Please check if your hose #17 is attached to the intake pipe running from the air filter box to the throttle body. If it is hanging without being attached, I would suspect that dirt have partially clogged the EGR vacuum canister (the whitish cylinder) or the vacuum modulator making the system to work more slowly and the ECU picks that up. This happened to me a few months ago and cleaning the canister solved the problem

    Read the manual as suggested especially if you have to pass smog you need to understand how the system works.
    Right, I did forget about the differences between '86/87 and '88/89. Thanks for the reminder.
    Dr_Snooz

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  21. #46
    LXi User ecogabriel's Avatar
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    Re: '86 Hatch to join the ranks

    Quote Originally Posted by Dr_Snooz View Post
    Right, I did forget about the differences between '86/87 and '88/89. Thanks for the reminder.
    The 89 manual you provided still is the best source for understanding the system; once you get how it works from there you may figure out how the 86-87 works (it is a little more twisted than the 88-89)

    I would like to write some kind of addendum about the EGR system for the 86-87 EFI Accords including testing the EGR position sensor I came up with.

    Another thing is whether the 4G EGR valves would work on our cars, which would give us an expanded source of used valves (all 4g are EFI). The connector is different from the 3g but the wiring is the same (3 wires). They even test the same (sensor resistance)

    I hope next time my ratchet won't break so I can get one of those to install in my car and see whether it works. That would be a killing for those who have to deal with emissions testing.
    If it ain't broke... I fix it!

  22. #47
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    Re: '86 Hatch to join the ranks

    So if emissions are not a big concern, does this effect the cars performance much?

    I also opened up the black box and it seems like everything is as it should be, it looks like the day it was put in the car.
    Your Honda, isn't my Honda.

  23. #48

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    Re: '86 Hatch to join the ranks

    It's not a big deal. EGR helps to reduce pinging, but some guys get rid of it entirely. The stuff inside the black box can look fine, but still fail. The EGR troubleshooting section helps you find what is failing and replace it.
    Dr_Snooz

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  24. #49
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    Re: '86 Hatch to join the ranks

    Oh ok, thanks for the help, patience, & wealth of knowledge you guys are great.

    Ill read up on it, but in the meantime ill find some other symptoms that may need fixing

    I know the tachometer seems unresponsive, in first ill give it gas revs will rise to a point and then stay for a second then drop, ive never had a stick before so im not sure how normal operation would feel. if it might be something ill get more details
    Your Honda, isn't my Honda.

  25. #50
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    Re: '86 Hatch to join the ranks

    when my 87 efi threw a code 12 , i used a vac tester to make sure the diaphragm was holding some vac, that was ok, next thing i checked was a sensor in the black box thats hooked up to a vac line for the egr, clean the filter on the thing and its worked fine ever since

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