Help ID 3 way joint...

[1989accordaz]

I posted this on the carb forum but haven't had any replies, hope somebody here can help.

My car is an 89 Accord, Carb, Automatic.

There is a three way joint that has an open port.




There are two vacuum lines connected to it, one goes to the Idle boost throttle controller the other one goes to the AC Solenoid valve. There is a an empty port on the three way joint, what line connects to it? Where does it go to? it's located on the driver's side, next to the carburetor, easy to see.

I am troubleshooting a high idle/stalling problem...

Thanks in advance!

[lostforawhile]

the picture won't open, i hate image shack, is it attached to the hard lines on the drivers side? i was thinking it might have been the connection for the cruise, do you have cruise control? if you don't it should have a cap on it. I'll try to get the picture to open again

[1989accordaz]

lostforawhile here is another link to image, hope this one opens ok...





I am baffled as what is supposed to go there...they are soft regular vacuum lines and I do have cruise control.

I been running some errands today and looking for a 3 gee in a parking lot and wait there for the owner and see if I can look on under their hood for comparison....that is if I don't get pepper sprayed first...

[lostforawhile]

i'm not sure on that one, does someone have a vaccume diagram for that one?

[Tomisimo]

1989accordaz Use IMG code to post pictures.

[lostforawhile]

best way to put pictures up is get a free photobucket account, then once your picture is loaded you copy the IMG link under it and paste it in the post

[1989accordaz]

OK, here it is, thanks for the pointer Tomisimo *hangs head in shame*

[Dr_Snooz]

Vacuum diagram should be on the underside of the hood. There is also one on p. 11-5 of this manual. Good luck reading it. It's got about 40 billion lines going everywhere.

By any chance is that an aftermarket T connector that someone just hacked in there? Does it match the other connections on the car or is it some oddball stepchild connector? It doesn't look like something the factory would put in. On a factory connection, the vacuum lines would be pushed on as far as they can go.

Anyway, I don't think it's your problem. The AC solenoid only pulls vacuum when the AC compressor is running. It kicks up the idle to compensate for the compressor's load. It wouldn't cause your high idle, stalling problem, but it should be capped anyway.

Describe your other problem a little more.

[RobDirt89]

Thats definitely after market, cap it off. But the 2 things attached to the T should have manifold vacuum to them. So look for a port on the intake manifold. Run a vacuum line from the manifold to the tee. Any vacuum leak is not good.

[1989accordaz]

Agreed, it's after market and I have no idea it was even there. I've had the car for about 15 years go figure.

So I just bought a new vacuum line and replaced the existing one. That lines is number 30 and it goes from the AC solenoid valve to the Idle boost Throttle controller.

Thanks for the help, now I need to work on my high idle,stalling problem. I'll do some research on this forums, thanks all for the help!

[dacantu]

Hey man I'm here in AZ also. If youre interested in spending a entire day/weekend troubleshooting your issue up here in Phoenix I would be more than happy to help you out. I have access to all the online Databases and we can more than likely find your problem using ALLDATA and finding the specific vacuum diagram for your model. .

[1989accordaz]

dacantu, Thanks!. If I get to the point of going postal on the carb before I fix it, I will take you up on your offer, haven't thrown the towel in yet.

Here is a brief description on what is happening:

On cold weather, starts but will stall if I don't keep the rpm's above 1500-2000. Then it warms up and I am ok to drive, but rpms are so high that I let go off the gas and it maintains the same speed, won't idle down.

I reached my destination half hour later and put it on park, then the idle will shoot to about 3k, shut the engine down, and it goes into dieseling or engine run-on for a few seconds.

Now at this point, if I try to start it, it won't start. My guess is that the carb is over-flooded. So on my way to work in the morning, I can't afford to stop, because it won't start again...until 40 minutes later. Unless I hold the choke plate open and have someone try to start it...then it will start again.

I sprayed every carb linkage with carb cleaner, WD-40 and that didn't help.

The throttle cable moves freely.

So the choke valve is not operating correctly, is my guess, so I am going to look at the service manual and see where this goes...I'll post any progress...

Also my gas mileage went from 320 miles per tank to 220 miles.

Thanks!

[Dr_Snooz]

Definitely sounds like a choke issue. Let us know what you learn.

[1989accordaz]

Looking at the choke while the accelerator pedal to the floor. The throttle should be fully open, the throttle plate should be vertical, but is not, the image below shows how much it opens up...it says to remove the choke cover and inspect the linkage...but I have no clue as to how to remove the cover...it looks like grommets are holding it in place, not screws...

[lostforawhile]

Looking at the choke while the accelerator pedal to the floor. The throttle should be fully open, the throttle plate should be vertical, but is not, the image below shows how much it opens up...it says to remove the choke cover and inspect the linkage...but I have no clue as to how to remove the cover...it looks like grommets are holding it in place, not screws...

you mean rivets? when you rebuild a carb you drill out the three rivets and install new ones or small self tapping screws, if you connect power to the choke coil wire you should see the choke open, if it doesn't the bimetallic strip is bad, there is also an unloader which opens the choke partway on first warm up,so the car can operate while the choke is on, let me know, I have plenty of choke parts around, you can have them for shipping if you need something

[1989accordaz]

Lostforawhile, you are correct, I meant rivets.

I found my Thermostat faulty, so I replaced it and it did make a difference, it doesn't go into engine run-on anymore. I can stop and it will start again, high rpms on cold weather still present though. After work ound 4:00pm or so when the weather is not as cold, around 65 degrees ( sorry east coast guys) it starts and idles perfect.

So my next thing to replace will be the heater hose...I'll update with any eventful progress. And if I do get to the need for some choke parts, then I'll contact you about selling some spares,

Thanks!