Can only get F2's but they should be better still than F16 as they are two up from here and two below F7's
Can only get F2's but they should be better still than F16 as they are two up from here and two below F7's
yea rich, i think they would be worth a try. I'm kinda dissappointed about the whole dyno thing, but like i said in another thread, i believe the trans is going to my next big investment. its something i need to do before boost. i wouldn't mind trying some f2s, but really i don't know anyone that would let me try them out, other than you, and your thousands of miles away!
Remember Rich, he's also at significantly higher altitude so the jetting will be different.
C|
After doing some reading on the internet though F2's should be perfect for my engine as they are designed to work with 1.9-2.1 litre modified engines F16's are next down from 1.7-1.9 although you can use them on 2.0.
How High up are you then? That means I should be putting down more power If I'm near ground level! lol! I still think the F2's should show some improvement and found a place that does them cheap, just really really want to get this exhaust sorted out even if it's just a new downpipe and system would be a big improvement over the junk exhaust i have at moment header would be nice though just not sure about the clearance problem though.
We're at 5000+ ft above sea level
yeah, you can expect that to be about a 15% or more power loss! let me know how your F2s do, cause i might try them!
Hey Cyg, i'd say the emulsion tubes aren't affected to much by alititude so much, of course the jets are hugely effected as well as the air correctors and idles. Its just hard to believe that at sea level i'd be running 160 mains!!! OMG!
Originally Posted by hondalude86
Perhaps not. I know how the e-tubes work but tuning them (as far as I know) is pretty much trial and error. I have no idea how they might be affected by altitude.
C|
Ordered them but unlike the website they have a 8 day lead time hopefully they'll be here by next weekend before car goes in for new header and exhaust! I'm still debating the header though I've had a look underneath and the OBX one is just going to be way too close to the ground, with all the humps and ramps we have here I just can't take the chance of it hitting, so I'm either gonna keep my stock ported and flowed header and have a new 2" downpipes welded up to a 2.5" collector and matching system or if i can get my man to cut me a good deal on making up a header he has the flanges already for last few years hopefully not lost them! then I may go for the full monty as they say over here! But to be honest anything will be better than what is on there at the moment even swapping over reds exhaust to this one would be an improvement! Car goes to exhaust shop on the 12th hopefully to be finished before the race event.
You can always get a skid plate made up if you're that worried..
Rich, i'd run it anyway... I'm telling ya, with the spring stiffness, and the fact that your not SUPER dumped, i don't think you'll really have any clearance issues. I've only bottomed my header out on driveways i wasn't hitting just right, but even with the uber soft springs i haven't bottomed it out yet. And i'm curious why you decided to go with 2.5" piping. I've only modded mine to 2.25". Really i think that's all it needs...
Well to be honest I've run out of time to get it in just going to run with what I can get done, hopefully I can get my man to make me a new header with much bigger primaries than were use to seeing and long ones with a good 2-1 section leading to the 2.5" exhaust.
Reason I'm going so big is that from everything I've seen on honda engines they like big exhausts anything that's running over 200bhp has a 2.5" exhaust, also the next head and block I'm planning on using will definately be capable of around 230-240bhp and once I'm bored I my plan on putting a small turbo on A B20A and going for a 300-350bhp tune so a 2.5" exhaust should just cope with that and I'll use the old header on the Red lude instead.
So just future proofing as well as guaranteeing that the exhaust is no way the bottle neck in the system!! But we'll see how it goes may just settle for Downpipe and system at present and maybe try hoggin some more material out the cast header. Depends howmuch my exhaust guy is going to charge me for the header on top if i can get the whole lot done for £600 I'll be happy if it's nearer to £1000 then I'll have to just get downpipe and system done which last time cost me £300.
My tyres are only 195/50/15 so are smaller, and compared to yours it is mega dumped! lol!
Trouble is ryan I'm so used to going over our humps across the middle I'd easily forget one time and it will be completely destroyed you have no idea what our humps are like here they are PIA nasty MOF's!! I've even hit a fold down pillar that ripped the old exhaust to pieces at slow speed so any hit about 2mph on the header is going to get messy!!
Oh and on the suspension side I jacked it up 1cm roughly and it just clears the worse of it now but best of all it's made the handling a little more neutral now, I've increased damping a bit more on both front and rear and it's handling like a beauty even with 195 rain tyres on with super squiggy sidewalls!! Can't wait to get some Hankook Z212's on with 205/50/15 size will stick like glue to the road!!! Just need to fix my oil pan as it's taken a massive dump again and spewing oil out onto the downpipe and making a nice smoke screen for the Police!! lol!!
Well got my F2's but won't be able to try till Sat at earliest or Sunday, have the pan on the engine off and have spent the evening taking off the crappy exhaust and cast header loads of things broke or got stuck have to change the manifold regardless now! lol! have a spare though and I did some measurements check out my build thread for that makes some interesting reading!!!
Inspiring build! Glad to be subscribed to this thread now!
Hahaha, thanks!
Right now my car isn't running to great as of last night! I noticed that my car was running a little rougher and rougher, so i had this idea that i'd set my afr to 11.5-12 on the one cylinder (since i'm really only measuring one cylinder) to and then shut the car off and turn all the other idle mixture screws to the same as the ideal running cylinder. 2 and 1/4 turns out is where it is now. I set all the other mixture screws to the same and fired it up... I had a pretty good idle, but i couldn't really get it to idle down from 11rpm no matter how much i tried. I thought that was kinda weird but i was in crunch time trying to meet up for a local cruise in. The partial wasn't too hot. it was spotty at best, which was weird because it was running so well before all the craziness. Also I noticed i was super rich (11.0-11.5) under acceleration until i got to about 6.5rpm, then went pretty lean! It drove decent, and mid range felt good, but top end was gone and my partial wasn't so hot.
When i got to the local cruise in i tried to adjust my idles while i was there, figured i'd turn them just a 1/4 richer... partial was even worse, plus off throttle i was getting lots more back fire, which is abnormal, because before the car was pretty smooth especially when i wasn't coming off of a full throttle. And whilst i was adjusted the idle mixture screws and changing things around, i fired the car up again and notice that now i have a weird squeak that pulses with the rpm... I def sounds like its one of the carbies but i can't figure out which one. So then i checked my carb sync, and i found that i had a steady 3.5in/mg on cylinder 1,2 but 7-10 (pulsing with the squeak) on both cylinders 3,4. Today i'm leaning towards a vacuum leak but really haven't had time to look at it... just sucks!
alright guys! quick update before class! Well the other night was frustrating... i was trying to get it running again last night, and having a bear of a time trying to keep it idling. On my carb linkage i didn't have an adjustable screw between the main carb and the slave carb. So the other night i swapped in an adjustable one, which is when i realized that putting an adjustable one in, just gets in the way of the linkage for the throttle, ARGGG.. So last night i took the linkage apart and swapped the slave one for the main one, so now the passenger side carb has the linkage mounted on the far outside (pass) of the carby. that left me plently of room in the middle to get the adjustaable screw in there. I then synced the carbs up for off AND on throttle. before i was just adjusting the idle on both the carbs, syncing them that way, just assuming that the fixed screw was perfect! WRONG! this whole time my two carbies were synced at idle and were slightly off ON throttle. Also after all the "trying to get it to run" my 2 and 3rd cylinders were pretty much useless, plenty of suction, but no firing. bought new plugs, and boom, much better. Tuned it, synced it and man does it even feel better! Time for bigger mains, again! And some computer time. ordered some 55F9 idles and some 50 accel pumps last night, as well as a anti vib kit last night. should help keep it all together rather than vibrate out of adjustment.
then i went driving to class, driving seperate from my gf, and this happened...
throttle screw fell out and...
hit the windshield of my del sol (that my gf was driving)
Got lucky and found it in the road after having nothing but idle... O snap 4 more minutes to class!
Oh the joy of old modded ludes!!!! Starting to sound a lot more like me!!! lol
your not kidding! I just can't believe that when i was fucking around I happened to be in front of her (least i remind you she is driving my 400+whp car) and that piece came off the prelude and hit the upper part of the lowered Del Sol windsheild, and to make it even better, I actually found this little diddy in the ROAD! I feel so lucky... She remembered well enough were the hit on the windsheild was and it was right were she thought it was. Some of you might have noticed but that is a left hand / right hand thread piece which would be nearly impossible to find anywhere local. without that piece i would have had to walk to school and figure something ELSE out... Shame i guess i would have to drive the ALWAYS reliable white prelude.
In other news, i bought a set of Hankook Rs3 in a 225/45/r15 size for my Kosei K1s. Hopefully sometime next week i'll get those guys on! These are suppose to be one of the stickest Street tires you can buy for road racing
Nice I'd like a set of those!!
Lucky the linkage didn't break your windscreen or radiator in the Rex! lol!
My idle jets and pumps had to go up huge amounts, running appox .65 F6 idle and .65 pumps used a drill to save money! lol! Running sweet now! Just need to figure out whats causing the fuel to stop on right hand bends now!!
mine kinda cuts out too on hard rights, so as soon as you figure that out, i'd love to know...
It never did this before I'm pretty certain it's tank related as the fuel pump and pickup is to the back off the tank on the left side, so on hard rights something is being pushed back here and then blocking the fuel!
My car has sat for awhile, and whilst the fuel filter doesn't have many miles, its about 7 years old! probably worth changing out. I got my new jets today... car feels better, i think i'm at a good stage to start modding the ignition curve again, take a little advance out of the partial, add a little advance across the board, and of course install my antivib mounts. I'm even thinking that i need to change up my fuel splitter a little bit, being that it vibrates enought to dystroy a fuel pressure gauge, probably vibs enough to aerate the fuel quiet a bit.
Yeah it won't help the fuel getting all frothy! lol! Just remember not to go too tight and make sure they are both level to each other, and also make sure you use super glue or loctite on the nuts and studs just incase they start to undo themselves from all the vibrating! which they do no matter how tight you get em on!!
So i was talking to Jared online earlier and I had one of those moments when i had a realization about something... I keep fouling plugs on just cylinder 2 and 3... and when i was telling him that, he asked why i thought i was doing that. I guess before i never really gave it much thought until i realized that both cylinder 2 and 3 are both on the same coil pack side!! I guess i need to do some voltage/ohms testing, but i figured i'd post that up, maybe someone can jump on here and through in there .02cents!
Hmm.. interesting..
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