Wow! What size tire are you gonna run on those wheels? Should be nice and fatty!
Wow! What size tire are you gonna run on those wheels? Should be nice and fatty!
275/35 hoosier a6
Nice! I ran a season on some A6s. Magical tires. Can't imagine running 275s!
They really are pretty amazing...
So the ET2 motor spun a rod bearing on the #2 cylinder which has been very disheartening... But lucky me, I've got a badass a20a3 just laying around the house... So here are the pictures...
Donor car/motor before...
after...
Donor motor...
Blow'd up et2 before...
During...
Starting swapping parts, this is with the Rolands Weber manifold for the A20... which needed ALOT of modding
Most everything on the motor now, Oil Pan swapped, clutch and flywheel swapped, header swapped, trans swapped
Going in!!!
IN! Still needs a few things hear and there, like the coil mounted and a few things secured and zip tied, but runs pretty damn good for a car that used to be fuel injected!
All in all, i'm happy that it worked and what cost me about 300$ to do, I'm glad to be back on the road...
Here is a list off the top of my head that I swapped to make all this work together...
Swapped clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, trans... Kept the axles and hubs from the Red car of course...
Swapped the stamped steel front motor mount bracket in, studed the mounts (to help install), the driverside motor mount backet (that bolts to the block) needed to be swapped...
Swapped, Alternator, Alternator brackets (yes the upper and lower), water pump (need v belt, not serp belt...), crank pulley (trigger wheel), and removed power steering bracket and ac bracket... installed bracket for the mag pickup.
as far as the intake manifold, I had to notch the manifold for the chokes to work, drill holes though the webbing to run vacuum lines, drill and tap 1/8npt for 1/4 vacuum barbs...add metric studs for the carbs and used serrated lock nuts for the upper side of the manifold to head and nylock nuts underneath (not enough clearance for anything else) and of course running a Bisimotor heatshield gasket (which is perfect btw)...
Swapped the oil pans because my et2 oil pan had a baffle I welded in to help with the low oil pressure issue under HEAVY turning loads... removed the Dizzy, used 1 1/4 expanda plug for the hole... and add my oil pressure, water temp sensors for the AEM gauges...
All in all, i believe thats the whole lot... what is so special about this a20 you say???
OPEN LOOP BABY!!!
staying with the Colt Triflow cam thats in it for the moment...
Here's a shitty camera phone video of it idling...
https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?v...46940584091926
Ahha! You have the open loop head! Which triflow cam is that? Stage 1 or 2? The idle sounds decent so I'm guessing stage 1?
C|
Woah nice! Glad someone around here still has it!
Looking forward to some videos of you ripping the gears, great swap!
Probably will only see videos of it auto crossing it lol, but if this car does well it'll be getting a different motor for next year in the form of a b series...
Why didn't you use the clutchnet fly and clutch kit? much lighter and stronger they fit fine on A20 box well at least my ET one and clutchnet clutch does so should on yours expecially if the axles fit.
Good to see it up and running be interesting to see what power and torque differences are once you have everything dialed in again!
Just got mine up and running, managed to find a spare piston and had it machine to as near the same weight as the other pistons and whacked in some new std size rings just a quick bodge repair to get it running as the whole engine needs a overhaul to be honest. I have a new set of NPR pistons and oversized peugeot 205 GTI rings to slap into new build rods and pistons were already perfectly balanced from factory and the NPR pistons have much nicer machine crowns and valve pockets just a shame they dremeled such a deep set of letters into the crown I'm sure that's going to stress fracture and crack through after a few thousand race miles but I'm prepared to give them a try as they were only $80 for a whole set with rings and pins included!!
If they fail quickly I'll go to JE and have a set made up as they have a pattern for the pockets on the crown already from a few other old school luders, will be pricey but worth it I think long term other than that may actually setup a B20A as a race engine and see what I can do with that next time and save the best A20/A18 race engine parts for a engine in my Red lude.
Last edited by rjudgey; 09-18-2013 at 09:35 AM.
Rich! I think you're losing it! I've always had a clutch net flywheel and clutch kit. Never had a problem with mine either! To top that off, I've also got a clutch net flywheel that's an a20 fitment. The a20 is running great. Haven't had any legit time to play with the tune it jets, or swap cams for that matter, just been racing it! Had to install a catch can on the old girl, but over all, the car is pretty happy. Thinking about next years build, in getting excited! Built b18c1 with today cams, ctr positions, built head, and webers. LSD. 15x10s next year...and maybe even some custom valved coil covers.
Just the way you worded it above sounded like you didn't swap in the clutch and flywheel but kept the original A20 ones lol! Oh well that's all good then! hows it feel compared to old engine? more low down torque i bet!
after seeing 86turbolude's diff explode I'm very tempted to put LSD in mine but I've never had any gearbox issues other than syncros and that's only becuase I never used Honda MTF since I've used the real deal the boxes have been fine! touch wood! lol!
Whats the story with this head? I haven't seen one like it before. And what is "Open-Loop"?
The story on that head is.........mr messy opens pandora box:Originally Posted by rice_cracker
Back in the day like 2002 there was a member here who did simple bolt ons to his coupe. He netted 140whp with 130 tq with I/H/E then spun a bearing. He had a performance shop in San Francisco Named Openloop. 2 brothers owned the shop Daryl and Mike. Daryl built a performance rebuild on a budget. So they ported and polished the head. To decrease the combustion chamber and to raise compression they had the head welded. For the bottom end they used stock rods with ARP bolts and 1mm oversized A20a3 pistons 83.7mm. est comp 10.5:1 He was also one of the first ones to ever convert his car to OBD1. When i joined the forum back in 2006 i was 18 and looked up to these guys since they paved the way in alot of thing like OBD1 Swap, Golden Eagle adjustable cams gear, using a b16 manifold on the a20 head swapping out the gears with a teg box. The car was sitting in a garage since they rebuilt it and it was collecting dust. One day they posted it that they were selling the car but he wanted 4500 for it cuz i asked and even got to ride it....no way in hell would i pay 4500. After many months they decided to part out the car. I bought most of the stuff that i could including the car. Since i was going B20 on my sedan and had lots of goodies left from my A20 build i swapped most of the things over. I had the coupe for 2 years then i got sick and could not drive for 7 months. I had 2 cars one with out an engine(b20 project) and the coupe. The final numbers they got was 164WHP with 136WTQ running on a P75 computer. not even tuned. Sadly the coupe because another project and i could not be working on 2 car projects because i needed a reliable car. I sold the coupe. haha man this story brings back lots of memories. I still remember turning 21 in this car and my girlfriend even bought me a pie and celebrated my 21st birthday in the car. yeah i didn't get waisted for my 21 but instead decided to go on a mountain run and on my way back home getting pulled over for speeding. sorry to hijack the thread
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
Thanks Messy that was an awesome story! I love delving back to the days of the titans, haha always inspirational! I'd like to hear more of Ryan's feedback on how this engine build is performing with this head. I wonder how much that kind of welding would cost?
Ryan what kind of compression is this thing running?? Obviously it's off the Richter scale, do you think the head could benefit from more valve unshrouding knowing you have so much comp available to sacrifice. What pistons? Are those 45dcoes, what kind of chokes are you running?
on this motor (the accord motor) I believe that is is running about a 10.5:1 as was said before. with the pistons being stock sizing, any destrouding would require alot of modding on the head, kinda taking away its main advantage, the higher compression. The motor runs pretty good, but I literally haven't done anything other than pull this motor from the accord and plop in into my prelude... same jets and ignition tune. That being said, the car feels pretty good with the Colt Tri-flow. Thats the a20a3...
Now onto my ET2 motor... I was running the b18a/b pistons that normally have a compression of 10.7:1 over stock on a b18a/b. I had my head milled (for flatness) but not much and with these pistons, I would imagine the compression was in the 11.5:1. When I did the port and polishing on the head (my self) and before I sent it in to get milled, I deshrouded just the exhaust valves. the flow out of the exhaust side of these cars are the weakness. 2mm oversized exhaust with 1mm overside intake valves would be perfect in my opinion. That motor never made good power... and was extremely disheartening. The best I got out of it was 109whp @5100rpms and 109ft lbs of torque at 5300ft above sea level. but that was ages ago... The compression was high enough that with stock head bolts and a felpro head gasket, the head was lifting at high RPMs. with my head gasket issues at the time, running a compression test the proper way I was getting 180psi... and when you figure thats at 5300ft above sea level, thats pretty damn good! That would be pretty close to 200psi at sea level. But for what ever reason, I was never able to get it right. And eventually with the type of racing I do, the oiling could not keep up and the motor went BOOM. Probably a mixture of alot of things. Probably nearly toasted the rod bearings with the water'd down oil, should have gotten the rotating assembly balanced (I highly recommend this!!!), and not try to get to 8000rpms! hahaha.
oh and to add, Yes I am running 45s with 40mm chokes. I think 38mm chokes would have been better, its just the high end head flow, I just could not get figured out. was even running a Delta 282 cam
bump is this car still round
unfortunately no... well the body is... and a whole slew of random parts have made it onto my current lude... this motor was doing pretty good until it was introduced to its mean cousin, grip... with the 275 hoosier and my suspension setup, the engine was no match for it, in fact, I lost two good a-series motors that season to those bad meats... my best guess is oil doesnt return fast enough from the head to the pan under heavy cornering loads. I had the crank scraper, and multiple types of baffling in the pan... STS is where I'm playing now after a season hiatus...
my current project...
Sweet. Your head setup is sick. I've been thinking about doing something similar but boosted. It's nice to see its stilk running
Let me be clear here, the car is NOT running... the car pictured above is an 87 lude that I have now
My bad. Well if you don't mind me ask i would like some info on those valves. Like where you got the. Lol
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