1989 Accord Se-i. Exhaust manifold bolts pulled out of block.

[TravisT]

Hi, I was wondering how you guys would tackle this situation.

When I bought my 89 Accord the engine shook the car a lot. I found the torque bar bushings were shot and replacing those helped out a lot. Then I started losing exhaust manifold nuts & lock washers. When I replaced the first one the bolt sheared off without a whole lot of torque on it. (This has been a common theme. ) So I get the stud/bolt that screws into the block. Replace it successfully, but I find another bolt turns freely and pull it out of the block to see the threads have come out with the bolt and made a nice cylinder in the head with no threads. Now all but 3 exhaust manifold bolts have come out. Luckily the corners are holding...

I'm pretty poor right now and this is my commuter and only car. I don't drive it much or far when I do. I guess my options are to re-tap the block or drill out the holes more and put healy coils in? I doubt i can afford what a mechanic would charge me and I usually do the work on my cars anyway.

So what would you do? Thanks!

[AccordEpicenter]

helicoil is the way to go in this situation. been there

[Pico]

X2
I had one that would keep backing out after a short while, even though it seemed tight.
Helicoil fixed it right up

[Dr_Snooz]

Just know that Heli-Coiling is cheaper than a mechanic, but it's not exactly cheap. I think by the time I got the kit and the special drill bit, I was in over $50 for one bolt. It's hard to believe it's all so expensive.

[TotaledTL]

See http://www.timesert.com/

[lostforawhile]

Just know that Heli-Coiling is cheaper than a mechanic, but it's not exactly cheap. I think by the time I got the kit and the special drill bit, I was in over $50 for one bolt. It's hard to believe it's all so expensive.

the initial kit is usually cheaper then that, you can also buy more inserts to go with the special drill bit and tap, and insert tool. where did you buy yours? they usually have at least 6 inserts. The best price i've seen so far is MSC.com, these threads can be changed to a standard 5/16 fine/coarse thread also, this will allow you to use better studs such as ARP, coarse threads goes in the block,fine thread is the side the nut goes on. they will fit the holes in the factory manifold,

[Dr_Snooz]

By the time you get all the stuff you need, the tap, another tool to drive the tap, the special inserter, the coils, the special odd-ball sized drill bit, it comes out to about $50. When I did the PS pump bolt in my head, a shop quoted me $50 to do it. I thought I'd be saving money by buying all the tools, but I didn't. If the OP were doing it for one bolt, I'd say have it done. Doing three the same size will put him better off.

[lostforawhile]

By the time you get all the stuff you need, the tap, another tool to drive the tap, the special inserter, the coils, the special odd-ball sized drill bit, it comes out to about $50. When I did the PS pump bolt in my head, a shop quoted me $50 to do it. I thought I'd be saving money by buying all the tools, but I didn't. If the OP were doing it for one bolt, I'd say have it done. Doing three the same size will put him better off.

I would loan him the stuff If I can find it, it's here somewhere but I'm out of the coarse thread inserts, and stay away from the ones from the auto parts stores, they are junk I had a terrible time removing the inserts after they failed, stick with the genuine helicoil

[lostforawhile]

Nappa sells the real ones under the Balkamp name, if it says Helicoil, it's the real deal as that's copyrighted. the other kits will just say thread repair kit without the name. https://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/R...&Dk=1&Dp=3&N=0