after towing something i shouldn't have i burnt up my clutch. it grabs enough to drive alright(for now) but if i really get on it, its def slipping. i'm tired of buying oem replacement parts so i decided to start here and upgrade. my questions are: (1) who still makes a clutch for us that will support 300ish hp?(maybe more) (2) have you heard or expirienced any pros and/or cons w/ the clutch(es)?
Clutchmasters sell good clutches or you can buy a heavy duty clutch which will be better and cheaper for you.
you also got F1, Excedy clutch, many more dude you just gotta keep looking.
spec clutch. thats wut i have. got my stage 3 for 280 shipped to my door from thmotorsports.com
Originally Posted by CAH
what kind of #'s are you putting down? i'd rather buy more than enough then have to buy twice. any slippage?
I can vouch for Exedy. Good quality and the throwout bearing is usually the same made in Japan bearing that Honda uses.
One thing I would note is the heavy duty race clutches can be a pain to drive in a daily driver. Kinda hard to explain but the way it engages isn't linear like an OE style. It'll just suddenly grab making daily commute in rush hour and stuff somewhat tiring.
www.b20accord.com
thanks, man
keep'em comin guys
Re: clutch info
no slippage, unknown number but im guessing around 200
my clutch feels like its oem. grabs the same way as it did with my stage 1/2(idk wut it was) and isnt a pain to drive at all. most ppl who ride in my car dont know its a stage 3 lol
aight, thanks
no prob.
i had alot of clutches...
first one was a OEM replacement(slipped beacuse of me learning how to drive a stick)
2nd one stage 3 clutchnet set up with sprung disk and 9 pound flywheel(sucked at driving during traffic and daily driving) cool as fuck but not worth it unless your moded making 150+ hp
3rd one i had a excedy(good clutch for a OEM car)
4th one ACT HD clutch...best clutch i ever had...its easy and still grabs good
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
its lookin like a stage 3 clutchnet w/ pressure plate for $254 shipped.
http://www.clutchnet.com/search.php?...hp?mode=search
just to make things clear i do not plan on running this on my car as it is. i'm buying a new dd next week so i'm tearing the 3gee down and rebuilding and going to throw alot of money into it over time i'm gonna start w/ the clutch simply because its broke(ish). next my spare head is going to the machine shop
Clutchnet>* Seriously. Custom made and high quality.
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
while im not saying clutchnet is bad, there is better out there...
but not alot of ppl make em for our cars soo haha
not really...i got to post up my stage 3 pressure plate the fingers on the diaphram are worn down because throw out bearing would put too much pressure when fully pushed in. i called them they said 150 to fix it so i went with a ACT clutch and never had a prob
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
would using a diff tob solve this? is it possible even?
what clutchnet does is just angle the fingers so in my case i would have to fully press or else it would not disengage that much pressure from the throw out bearing...but i would daily drive the car and a stage 3 clutch is just for holding pressure...maybe a stage 2 would not be too much for the car
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
so adjusting how you engage/disengage while driving woulda prevented this? not being a smartass; just trying to understand what the problem was and a possible solution
Hmmm find it strange this can happen are you sure the throw out bearing was adjusted properly? I know initially mine had to sit a bit on the plate till it bedded in for the first few minutes but then was able to adjust to where it should be with the TOB just off the plate with 1cm of play on the pedal as per honda manual. I do have a habbit of not leaving the clutch pedal engaged in traffic etc. I've been using clutchnet as you all know for many years and recommended them to everyone to use as quite frankly there the only clutch I've used that hasn't broken under hard use and I've had cluthmasters before which use a $25 DK pressure plate and a piece of crap disk that springs fall out off as the metal is so weak! and charge you a nice price for the privaledge of ruining your flywheel to boot! Only other clutch I've had has been AP but the disk on those are weak but the plate awesome stock like feel but with a Clutchnet disk able to easily hold 200bhp and not break under race use. The main thing to look at with the plates is the holding straps that keep the cast iron plate in place have 3 pieces of metal straps most have just 2 and they snap under heavy use, and the disk itself should have at least 6 spokes and have 4 rivets holding it together and a pocketed cover for the springs on the hub.
the transmission guy said it could also be flywheel because it was a 9 pound piece and you will need to press the clutch down more because its not as thick. but i have to say that the grip power is a hole lot better than stock and other OEM replacementsso adjusting how you engage/disengage while driving woulda prevented this? not being a smartass; just trying to understand what the problem was and a possible solution
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
alright, good to know. should i replace the fly wheel to an after market?
i had one already
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
Can't see how the weight of the flywheel would matter, should have been designed so that the plate sits in the same place as oem, never had an ally one fitted still got a CRX one that i never used in the end, and had all my stock 1.8 lude ones (smaller than A20 one) machined to 10lbs and I've never had issues with any of my clutches wearing out the plate fingers. Maybe changing to 1.8 lude flywheel and pressure plate might be better?
will post pics later of the teeth(fingers) but i just think the throw out bearing should be honda OEM i used the one that came in my excedy clutch kit that was brand new(should be the same)
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
Im curious to see this issue too. My spec clutch lasted only a few thousand miles and drove like shit. If you put the the clutchnet clutch next to either a stock clutch, or act clutch, or spec clutch etc youll see the differences in the overall build quality and attention to detail in the clutch immediatley, especially in the pressure plate. Just about every other manufacturer uses a lightly improved pressure plate, but the clutchnet is much better built. Seriously. I never had any problems with the pressure plate spring steel fingers wearing at all, and i have a dual diaphram pressure plate. I really think its an adjustment and or flywheel problem you had...
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
what do you guys think of the F1 clutch stage 2? I need to replace my rear main. and I figure since I am dropping the tranny and clutch and etc. i am thinking of replacing my clutch while there.
and i was thinking id like to do a stage 2, I was told stage 3 is not needed for me for I am going to stay under 500 horse. At most I might hit 200-230.
currently 100% stock. going to put a short ram intake on it, 2 1/2 piping exhaust axle back. going to probably just bite my lip and buy the pace setters headers for $200.
I found I can get F1 stage 2 clutch with pressure plate and tob for $150 plus shipping. I am going to be dropping my tranny today or tommorow.
also is there any benefit to dropping a light weight flywheel? or should I just keep my stock one? if there isn't really much of a point at all then I won't bother. My uncle told me the flywheel's purpose is for the starter to start the motor, and for balance. But then again my uncle has been proven as a dumb ass recently(tons of times).
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