i have a similar idea with going all motor, but i as well have the hatch for a DD so im trying to find the right balance between both worlds.
i was thinking of ordering a better cam from bisi, cam gear and valve springs. In addition to adding a basic intake and header i think i may be able to find that right balance, i do enjoy that my car gets over 30 mpg on average. I think also swapping over to OBD-1 and tweaking the fuel mapping may help also.
1989 Accord Lx-i hatchback (current DD project)
1986 Olds Cutlass 442 clone (never ending project)
3Geez resident body man
Owner of Wreck-less auto body
Not ApplicableOriginally Posted by AccordEpicenter
And as for the 14k comments...
The springs were tested up to 14k. Nothing else. Get your A20 past 9k and then we'll talk lol.
^^^ lol damn ill get an a20 to 10k just for that. let me get this job and ill do it for u guys :P
but bewst >na
and high comp+bewst>low comp + bewst
I'm thinking the rods would leave in all directions long before 14K rpm..This thread fell flat on it's face as it went from "all out" to, I want a dd and I only have a small budget.
Also, the head would crack long before it reached 14k rpm
ICHIBAN!
"Now, even more better!"
find a B20a , look around and stay on it you will find one because they are out there still to be had
idk about a b20 man... theyre so hard to find and i kind of love the a20with all the work ive been doing to my car ive practillay learned this motor front to back. now its my turn to learn from the inside out.i didnt think i could make 160 with just cams, gears etc.... i may be aiming a little higher. like i said yet idk exactly whts going to happen yet so im testing waters to get an idea for what to do. but anyways this isnt going to be an allout build so dont get super excited but when i start this those of you who have kept up with me and what ive learned and the progress ive made will understand why this is such a big deal to me. this will be my first n/a build so well see how this goes
88 lxi:
shortram, msd blaster 2 coil, lowered 2.5" in the rear 3" in the front, stripped because race car XD
Yeah 1-1.5k spending mark is a little off..thats what i was going for too lol...and with not too many performance parts im already over the 2k mark i believe.
1986 Honda Accord Lx-i
~~NGK~~Silvania~~MSD~~Pioneer~~MSW~~Bosch~~DC Sports~~115WHP 116WTQ
absolutley, very well statedidk about a b20 man... theyre so hard to find and i kind of love the a20
also I went out last night and tried to find the place that had a couple up on CL last summer when I didnt have the money to get, couldnt find it again, but they had a gold top and a black top with trannys , auto I think if I remember right but hell I enjoy mine with an auto regardless its alot more power than my lxi a20 auto. If I ever get around to rebuilding the suspension I will come up there for a Ga meet. Its a DD now but im pretty ashamed of all the popping and floating
For all motor, you need the good cam and at least get a good valve job if you dont want to pay for oversize. Bisi valve springs so you can take advantage of the last later power band of a performance cam. Go midrange with the cam if your using it for DD. Tweeking the timing and fuel delivery takes care of the rest. You should be able to get 150 which is oodles of fun in that light car.
You can make more progress if you get another low mileage engine from the JYard and go thru it, sometimes you can find those that need nothing on the bottom end. Knowledge is cost savings.
Look a some of the dyno for a20 that have been modified, the HP is not always up there at 145000, LMAO right. 150-175 can be had in the redline range im pretty certain.
What are you goin to do for Suspension? I may be getting full bodies soon and I obviouusly won't need the stock stuff... So if you want stock stuff I'll give you mine if you wait a little while
88 lxi:
shortram, msd blaster 2 coil, lowered 2.5" in the rear 3" in the front, stripped because race car XD
yeah man...the A20 is not cheap to make fast....just turbo that stock motor and make like 200whp...ericw made 240 on a carb engine, obd1 swap and a really good tune
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
just put a b series in it
Well thats the Kinda Easy way, They made B Series mounts for our cars but there EXTREMELY hard to find, OR theres Being unique and building a motor that there aren't millions of already built
2004-2011?
Thats everyones solution. Keep the A20; these are great little engines that are very unique compared to any other honda engine i've ever drove. These things rev up quick and can be pushed well over redline just in stock form(w/300,000+ miles). These things are pretty bulletproof. The Bseries has a ton of potential but its been done way too many times in just about every honda out there. If you were at baller status i'd say go K or J just because it hasn't been done and would make your car even more unique; but that would be hella expensive
To me it is all about being different. Yea it's nice to know you have vtec but when every civic in the world practically has one now it would make me feel better to outrun someone with a b swap with a build sohc non vtec motor. Plus I want to make the decal and saying "built not bought" mean something
88 lxi:
shortram, msd blaster 2 coil, lowered 2.5" in the rear 3" in the front, stripped because race car XD
reving to 14000 might not mean ur making power up there but if ur racing(track) you can stay in gear longer through a turn and shift and land in the middle of your powerband.thats the real advantages of high revving motors.
but yea a20s are sweet. u wont be able to made a mild "built" motor for 2k. just isnt possible unless u got some hookups. ask luke haha
lol yea that was kind of an estimate but i will be drawing this out over time. i want to build and everything but the car itself needs a little bit of love to. so ill be doing my suspension stuff first and while i start the build ill be doing body work and paint... sound like a plan guys?
88 lxi:
shortram, msd blaster 2 coil, lowered 2.5" in the rear 3" in the front, stripped because race car XD
being different will cost you money and headaches...i tell you this after i dumped 3k on a b20 that will never run due to shady shops and a "unique engine"
il tell you this...if i had 3k right now i would of had at least a b18 or gsr...i owned a 164whp machine and trust me these cars are fun with a little more hp.
Last edited by MessyHonda; 04-18-2011 at 06:05 PM.
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
Idk alot of my friend are telling me to b swap too. But going to import alliance and seeing hundreds of b swaps kinda turned me away. But if it's Gina cost me so much to build the A then I may plan on a swap... Still unsure and uneasy but I do have a b16 sitting in my garage so idk
88 lxi:
shortram, msd blaster 2 coil, lowered 2.5" in the rear 3" in the front, stripped because race car XD
A's are tough no reason you can't get some decent power with them, it just takes work, at least you have more displacement then most of the civics, A built A will stand out in a sea of civics, most of those guys probably don't even know what one is, these are old school cars, they deserve cool old school power, I know when mine is done it's going to blow some peoples minds, it will be worth the time off the road and the countless hours I've put into it
Last edited by lostforawhile; 04-18-2011 at 06:28 PM.
b16 can make some power...my friend owns a ek with a CTR engine...all i can say is that once you hit around 9k you are moving...we raced a evo and it was a blast on how fast it got
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
UGH!!!! fuck it lol im buying another 3gee to do a b swap and then build the a for the other lol
88 lxi:
shortram, msd blaster 2 coil, lowered 2.5" in the rear 3" in the front, stripped because race car XD
haha...that was my plan too...something classic and modern at the same time
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
if you are going to put a b in one, do it right and use the proper b20a. there are still a few around , and half the ricer racers wouldnt know what one is.
the grand daddy of the b series!
makes b16a hp with a shit load more torque.
Haha love it NA mean not acceptable think that's been my motto since day one each time i rebuild an old engine and increase it's power a bit more each time one day it might be acceptable!!
$1500 isn't going to do much, if you are a good at mechanics then I would check out the original block, see what the compression is etc. if pretty healthy, just concentrate on head work, skimming, cleaning all the ports up etc. No offence to Bisi but the springs are over kill for anything under 200bhp and less than 8k rpm, all my engines have never had anything less than stock parts, yes they've been balanced, polished, shot peened in some cases but they've all been stock. And they have all made very reliable 7.5-8k rpm engines pulling 200bhp at the flywheel with incredible pickup and excellent midrange power and decent low end still so they are driveable on road still. Next engine I'm working on is beyond stock parts will be looking at achieving 240-250bhp and will be using Bisi springs, wilder cam with more lift, stronger lighter rods, forged larger pistons etc. but won't be for a little while, working on a B20A project and I still have a little stock trick up my sleeve for the A20 block yet anyway! Oh forget to mention all this was done on a stock cast manifold and crappy made 2 way downpipe to a crapp made exhaust system, bit better than stock but no where near as nice as the exhaust on my BMW and my other Red lude. When i get round to having the manifold made and the exhaust system done in mandrel bent 2.5" this engine will be spitting fire and will easily increase torque and BHP hugely especialy at the top end and will most likely increase the rpm band and limit.
So don't skimp on exhaust header and system, thats a good start and you'll spend most your budget there, then concentrate on inlet, camshaft, some basic head work, and then some kind of ECU tuning.
the tune is going to be really important. i was looking up k swaps but just hondata kpro cost around 1500 bucks because that engine can be fine tuned...i was at the dyno meet and one made 190whp...amazing for a 2.0 engine
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
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