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Thread: prelude arm conversions

  1. #1
    3Geez Veteran lostforawhile's Avatar
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    prelude arm conversions

    does anyone have a list of exactly which parts are needed to convert to lude arms, if they are rebuilt, do you use all lude internals, as fas as the bushings, it's just the spacers that are needed correct? I've had a set for years, I might as well use them, also which ball joints have worked the best? as far as brand.



  2. #2

    2oodoor's Avatar
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    Re: prelude arm conversions

    Im about at the same point. /there seems to be a large variety of ball joints available with a significant difference in price. Rock has some good prices on the same ones that Napa prolink is high on so I guess those who have experimented would have info that would help.
    I also am considering buying the lude arms so I have the option for alignment. I just bought two new tires for too much money so next month the LX will get ball joints and bushings.
    I could get new lude arms new with B joints already in them correct?

  3. #3
    3Geez Veteran lostforawhile's Avatar
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    Re: prelude arm conversions

    Quote Originally Posted by roodoo2 View Post
    Im about at the same point. /there seems to be a large variety of ball joints available with a significant difference in price. Rock has some good prices on the same ones that Napa prolink is high on so I guess those who have experimented would have info that would help.
    I also am considering buying the lude arms so I have the option for alignment. I just bought two new tires for too much money so next month the LX will get ball joints and bushings.
    I could get new lude arms new with B joints already in them correct?
    right, but if you find them at the yard, you can rebuild them, and choose the ball joint you want, probably cheaper

  4. #4
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    Re: prelude arm conversions

    Mike has the Prelude arms on his hatch and he says he hates them and will probably transfer to a camber kit from an auto parts store.

  5. #5

    2oodoor's Avatar
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    Re: prelude arm conversions

    Quote Originally Posted by Charlie View Post
    Mike has the Prelude arms on his hatch and he says he hates them and will probably transfer to a camber kit from an auto parts store.
    i saw those too, but anyways...
    time vs money and I need it fixed asap and dont have time to go work in the JY , wrestle with removing arms twice then pressing out and in ball joints.

  6. #6
    2.0Si User mykwikcoupe's Avatar
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    Re: prelude arm conversions

    Mine were rebuild using 555 brand ball joints and prelude bushings. I still have what sounds like a knock when going over large bumps and I have re torqued everything countless times. You do end up with alot of adjustability but I am going to try the 3rd gen arms next. If you make me a decent price I will send you these. I have a camber kit on my coupe and it worked great. The issue with it is you dont have infinite adjustability but rather 3 choices to choose from. For the cost of good quality rubber I would like to be sure I wont have any improper wear.

    Lost to my knowledge, everything is kept from the prelude except the bolt and the uprights that mount the arm to the body. I didnt see ant reason you couldnt use the lude uprights I just chose to use the accord ones. When you rebuild them or install them, on the side with the spacers, leave out the dust seal that goes between the upright tower and the chrome bushing cap otherwise it will squeak like crazy no matter how much you grease it. Thats what I have observed, hope it helps

  7. #7
    3Geez Veteran lostforawhile's Avatar
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    Re: prelude arm conversions

    Quote Originally Posted by mykwikcoupe View Post
    Mine were rebuild using 555 brand ball joints and prelude bushings. I still have what sounds like a knock when going over large bumps and I have re torqued everything countless times. You do end up with alot of adjustability but I am going to try the 3rd gen arms next. If you make me a decent price I will send you these. I have a camber kit on my coupe and it worked great. The issue with it is you dont have infinite adjustability but rather 3 choices to choose from. For the cost of good quality rubber I would like to be sure I wont have any improper wear.

    Lost to my knowledge, everything is kept from the prelude except the bolt and the uprights that mount the arm to the body. I didnt see ant reason you couldnt use the lude uprights I just chose to use the accord ones. When you rebuild them or install them, on the side with the spacers, leave out the dust seal that goes between the upright tower and the chrome bushing cap otherwise it will squeak like crazy no matter how much you grease it. Thats what I have observed, hope it helps
    i wish someone had an exact measurement of how much spacer is needed, then i could simply machine my spacers with no trial and error

  8. #8

    Vinny's Avatar
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    Re: prelude arm conversions

    psssttttt read the how-to

    Parts required
    84-87 Prelude upper control Arms
    84-87 Prelude Ball Joints (should come with Castle nut, self-locking mounting nuts and cotter pin)
    12ea 3/8” fender washers (Homedepot or Lowes)
    2 ea 10mm self-locking nuts for the upper mounting bolt PN 90002-SA7-000
    4 ea 12mm self-locking nuts for the Accord upper arm anchor bolts
    You will use some parts from both the accord arms and the prelude arms


    Prelude Arms(similar to accord picture shown above)
    Remove the 10mm self-locking nut (14mm socket and wrench)from the end of the Prelude upper control arm
    Slide the upper arm bolt out of the upper control Arm
    Leave the housing seals on both ends of the prelude upper control arms.
    If you are replacing the ball joints (recommended). Remove the 2ea 12mm nuts (17mm socket or wrench) holding the ball joint to the control arm and remove the balljoint
    Everything else can be discarded

    Building the Prelude arms
    When you rebuild the prelude arms you will use the accord Upper Arm Bolt, The accord upper arm anchor bolts and anchor arm seals, 6ea 3/8” fender washers and the prelude housing seals.




    Take the accord upper arm bolt and install (in order) the upper arm anchor bolt, the anchor bolt seal, 3 ea 3/8” fender washers then the prelude housing seal.


    Slide the upper arm bolt through the prelude upper control arm.
    Install (in order) the prelude housing seal, 3 ea 3/8” fender washers, the anchor bolt seal, upper arm anchor bolt and a new 10mm self locking nut(14mm socket or wrench).
    Torque the self-locking nut to 40ft lb.

    Install new Prelude Ball Joint to Upper control Arm (I havent found an exact torque value for the mounting bolts for the prelude ball joints to the upper control arms. I torqued mine to 32ft lbs)


    Installing the arms
    Installation is the reverse of removal.
    Install new 12mm self-locking nuts on the upper arm anchor bolts(17mm socket). Torque is 53ft lbs
    Torque on the 10mm castle nut (17mm socket) is 32ft lbs. Don’t forget to install the new cotter pin.

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