How do i find it's location? It says it can be on the block or on the head? My car is an 89 dx carbed coupe.
How do i find it's location? It says it can be on the block or on the head? My car is an 89 dx carbed coupe.
The coolant temp sensor for the gage is a single yellow/green wire connection that is on the center, back side of the intake on carbed engines. It goes to a small brass sensor with 1/8" NPT connection. I moved mine to the thermostat housing. There is another sensor for the computer on the block I believe.
Last edited by Keachman1; 05-31-2011 at 06:37 PM.
Thanks.... One of these 3 should be correct i assume?
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...mString=search
I've not heard very good things about AZ electrical parts. Had a defective oil press. switch from AZ recently. Keep your receipt.
I hear you on autozone stuff i'm just trying to make sure these resemble the correct part i am after. I'm just confused because the description for one says it's located on the block by the oil filter and the other on the head but as mention by another member and i assumed myself that it was located near or on the thermostat housingOriginally Posted by TotaledTL
Two temp sensor on a carbed engine. #1 - sensor for gauge, threaded into back of intake manifold (kinda up underneath) #2 - temp sensor for feedback control(computer) round green sensor screwed into back of passengerside of block (nearly directly over from the oil filter housing.
88 LX 5spd l 32/36 weber l KYB GR-2's l Refreshed A20A3 engine l
So i would have to replace this one?
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...7308_132837_0_
anyone know the part number for one from advance autoparts for the one that goes in the block then?
what seems to be the problem with your temp sensor
The car runs overly rich and failed emissions. So here in Ohio you have to either fix the problem or spend up to 200 on emissions related items and improve the failure by 30 percent to pass or spend 300 on emissions parts for a full waiver. I was gonna replace the coolant sensors because it says from what I have read they can cause the car to run rich if they are not functioning correctly. I also plan on replacing the cap and rotor as well as the O2 sensor and I already did the plugs and wires. I'm sure the carb is probably just worn since I had the high idling problem and the way I fixed it might also be causing it to run rich but I'm not sure. All I did was disconnect and block off the vacuum thing that has a lever thing that looks like it pushes and pulls on the throttle cable? And then manually turned the idle down. If the car does not pass and I have to spend enough to qualify for a waiver I am probably just gonna get a Weber carb and say the heck with it. How do they know if it has a different carb anyways since they never look under the hood?
download the '88 Supplement manual here:
http://www.pauldesign.ru/honda/shopmanual.html
Go to section 12-190 (page 253) and you can test the sensor to see if it's working. You need a volt/ohm meter, a handy diagnostic tool to have. You don't even need to remove the sensor to test it.
What's missing from the manual is a 'Theory of Operation' that would tell what function this sensor affects on the controller...... I don't know if this sensor has any relation to your problem.
Can you look this part up in the manual and report back what it is called? (really have no idea)
Likely what you did here could cause an emission problem.
That sounded like the throttle controller, controlled by freq. sol. C if I'm not mistaken. I disabled mine also because of the inconsistent high idle (removed sol. & some sort of cannister it was connected to). Now if I would just get motivated & install that Weber that came last week..,.
A coolant sensor that cause the ECU to "think" the car isn't warmed up could cause a rich condition, no? At least on a FI car, not sure if it would on this carbed car.
Last edited by TotaledTL; 05-29-2011 at 06:58 PM.
I will try to find it in the online manuals and post it.
I'm not sure if the sensor is bad or not but the car does run super rich when first started and it takes a good 10 min or so even while driving for the temp gauge on the dash to rise to half way which I'm assuming in the 3G is about where the needle should sit when warmed up. I have felt the upper and lower hoses and they seem to warm up fine even though usually the dash sensor hasn't budged yet?
Well, if your temp gauge is working, that tells you one of the sensors is working, and for less than the price of that sensor at Autozone, you can get a multi-meter to test the other sensor. (and many other electrical items on your car). Thermistors are not as prone to failure as the thermovalves.
If your motor is slow to warm up, maybe the thermostat is stuck partly open. OTOH, these iron block motors take a bit longer to warm up than all Aluminum engine.
For emissions, always bring the car in fully warmed up for the test.
Mine warms up pretty quickly. Gauge needle always tops out just below 1/2.
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