Hard starting 89 LXi

[old accord guy]

This car sat for 7 or 8 years, being started occassionily. Started and ran great when I brought it home and for 2 weeks after. Now cranks for 20 seconds or more and appears to respond to some gas pedal action even though it's a fuelie. Crummy tank?, plugged fuel pump screen?. If so, why does it run perfectly once started. New plugs, battery, wires look new as does coil, WTF?
Any Ideas would be appreciated. Has 132K on it.

[TotaledTL]

It's a fuelie? You mean FI?

Try using some fuel system cleaner in the tank. Read the directions for proper concentration level. Cheap & easy to try.

[old accord guy]

Yeah, I'm thinking about removing the tank and pump and doing a real cleaning. Carb cleaner, nuts and bolts, etc. I think I'll pull the tank, remove the pump and have a look see. The pump screen might be all I need to see to know what to do. I did put injector cleaner in it when I brought it home. It's worth doing it right as I plan on keeping this car for a long time. Motor and tranny and body are fine (Florida car) and interior is like new! I don't need the car right now so now's the time to do it. Thanks, Rick
ps the net talks about all kinds of cleaners from toilet bowl cleaner, muriatic acid, dish soap for final rinse. All sounds scary. Wonder how much a new tank is?

[Dr_Snooz]

Have you done a fuel pressure test?

[AZmike]

If it was a fuel quality/clog issue I wouldn't expect it to run well after being started.

Any ECU codes? Are you sure the CEL bulb is good? I had similarly bad starting performance as my coolant temperature sensor was going bad. Another possibility is the main relay. When my relay started to go I would have occasional trouble starting, but it would always run fine.

[old accord guy]

AZMike, you are the man!!! I have a constant check engine light and an ECU 6 code (coolant temp) that I have been ignoring. Couldn't see how that sensor could impact starting. OK, some other 3Geeer told me which sensor is the right one. NOT the small one with the GREEN plug. Evidently the parts guys only show the green plugged sensor so he said "suck it up and go to Honda pay thru the nose and get the correct part. I'll be going there tomorrow. Thank you so much for diagnosing my problem. Peace, Rick

[old accord guy]

Starting problem solved!! Actually, the Honda dealer did not have the TW sensor. They could order it, I tried Autozone (not expecting them to have the right one) Behold, they had the part Duralast # SU4006 and it was the correct one. Installed it, starts on 3 turns every time. Thank you, again. Now I have a 13 code (atmospheric pressure). Car runs great, I check the connections at the black box on the passenger side firewall. The 3 wire connector on the front was clean and working. I disconnected it while the engine was running and the idle dropped a lot then stabilized. I hooked it back up. The large side connector ( filled with gooey grease/sealant) looked like crap but I'm afraid to clean it. I suppose I could clean it ans see if the code goes away, then if all is well, spray the heck out of it with white lithium spray as a sealant. Any thoughts? Love this site, Rick

[old accord guy]

Code 13 PA circuit problem solved thanks to the Electrical trouble shooting manual from the 3geez Wiki. It seems the PA (atmospheric pressure) sensor is mounted onto the blower assembly under the dash. I had removed said blower assembly to clean out the mouse nests and odor and had assumed(quite incorrectly) that the connectors on the blower box pertained to the blower. DUH. Page 259 photo 9 showed the PA sensor neatly screwed to the bottom of the blower and I had disconnected the sensor when I removed the blower. I separated the sensor from the blower (for now) and plugged it in. No check engine light and my 22 year old Accord is running and looking fine. Thanks for the manuals, they have been a Heaven send. Peace.