I am looking for part #2 in this diagram. It's an outer axle seal, I believe. I can't seem to find it anywhere and my online order with a Honda parts company was canceled due to the part no longer being available.
Anyone purchased this part recently?
Is it something you definitely have to replace when replacing a wheel bearing?
Muchas gracias!
Mike
Where have you looked?
2011 Is going to be my year to do it or give it up!
Drivewire
Rock Auto
Parts Geek
Dealer Direct Parts (No longer available)
Majestic Honda (No longer available)
I can't tell if the thing is a seal or not. The shop manual calls it a "ring." It is not noted as a "replace" item in the shop manual, either. I suppose, since I am taking the knuckle to my mechanic to R&R the bearing, he can probably get one if it needs to be replaced.
I ordered the bearing from Parts Geek (Koyo brand) yesterday and it already arrived today. It shipped from a local warehouse.
Bump!
No one who has replaced a front wheel bearing can tell me if this thing is a seal or a reusable part?
It's a big metal ring, its reusable, as long as your mechanic knows what he's doing and doesn't destroy it.
That is excellent news. Thanks, 2drSE-i!
My mechanic is top notch, but I may go ahead and remove it myself before bringing him the knuckle.
No worries. Before I tore mine down I was worried about the same thing, because you CANNOT get a replacement. Come to find out its metal lolOriginally Posted by DBMaster
http://compare.ebay.com/like/3004728...=sbar&_lwgsi=y
44348-SE0-000
$4.97
Eric
3geez member since October 12, 2000
"All this worldly wisdom was once the unamiable heresy of some wise man." - Henry David Thoreau
Wow. How obscure is that? I'll try to be good to mine. I am tearing out the knuckle tomorrow after work so I can take it into the shop Wednesday.
I'd replace it now while It's still semi available.
ICHIBAN!
"Now, even more better!"
I don't need to replace mine. I am about to pull the knuckle to replace the bearing and wanted to make sure the thing wasn't a seal that needed to be replaced. That has been confirmed. Wish me luck since I am removing the knuckle tonight and taking it to the shop tomorrow.
Just pulled the knuckle. Thirty minutes from start to finish. The ring pried out quite easily with no damage. Glad I decided to spend $15 on a new Pittman arm puller. The one I had did the job, but it was one of those adjustable ones that wasn't that easy to use.
You work fast my friend. Nice job.
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
Just got the call from my mechanic. $20 cash to R&R the bearing. The lower ball joint did not need to be replaced. I did replace both - unnecessarily - when the car had about 100,000 miles on it. They are TRW joints. I was going to have them do the joint, too, so I picked up one of the O'Reilly's "lifetime" ones. When I saw it was made in China I changed my mind. Keeping my fingers crossed on the noise. They didn't think my original bearing was in bad shape but it did have a slight amount of play in it and they said when they took it out it looked like it has been subjected to some heat lately.
FAIL!
When I picked up the knuckle I noticed a fair amount of play in the assembly. It looked like it was pressed in properly and not damaged but it did not feel right. I put everything back together and have been hearing some very disturbing low speed scraping noises. On the highway it is "OK," but not what I was expecting. It appears that I am going to have to do this again.
Do it yourself!!!! It's much betterer.
Oh, and sorry to hear that, BTW.
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
it's a dust seal I had a terrible time finding it, I'm trying to think where I got it. I may have got the last two for all I know.
it's called a knuckle ring, official Honda name, you might try thisoldhonda.org, they have some places there that can find these parts, I'm looking for the picture but it's missing, I will look in my other computer in a bit.
this is the best picture I have, if someone wants to donate a junk inner joint, even just the part of it that goes through the bearing, I'll start looking at bearing seals to see If I can find something that will work, I have my old hubs with these in them for reference and measurements. There must be a metric bearing seal that will fit in the back of the hub.
I guess I would do the whole job myself if I had a hydraulic press. About all I can do is pull the knuckle, which is relatively quick and easy. The play in the bearing seems to be between the races. It looks perfect and this guy has been doing this for years so I don't see how he could have messed up the bearing. Of course, even the best mechanics mess up now and then. I ordered a Timken bearing this time. The one in there now is the Koyo, which is supposed to be one of the OEM brands used by Honda. It seemed too cheap - $35 for Koyo v. $50+ for a Timken or National. I'm going to send it back once it's out and try again. It quieted down somewhat, but there is what I call a lot of play in the wheel assembly now and it's a little - not a lot - noisy on the highway. I guess it's possible (not probable) to get a bad bearing, I hope!
mine did this for a little while and then they were fine, some play between the bearing halves in normal without the axle nut tightened up. the main thing is make sure the axle nut is torqued right this directly affects the bearings
I did torque the axle nut correctly and still have too much play. The noise I was getting from the little bit of play the original bearing had is now louder because this one has more play in it. The bearing on the left side (still original) has none.
when you put in the bearings you did reinstall the big circlip right?
I had to cut that big stupid metal labyrinth ring off of mine when I did the teg shafts. Turns out the accord cv ends have a ring machined into them to accept that, whereas the teg cv's don't. Once I was done, it resembled an ordinary oil seal, which i pressed into the hub. I imagine that you could get an oil seal that matches the ID/OD as required, remember that the seal needs a few thou press in order to retain itself in the knuckle.
ICHIBAN!
"Now, even more better!"
Shop owner says yes. Though, the circlip retains the outer race. This play is in the bearing assembly itself. I have been using this shop for years and all they work on is Honda and Acura.The shop owner is a Honda master tech. I let him replace my transmission and A/C. I would think he could handle pressing in a bearing. I'm starting to think this is one of those things I should have left alone. The noise was not that bad.
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