stage 4 vac removal probs

[Dopecustomz]

I just did a stage 4 removal and I am having an issue. As I understand it, the removal is just capping off all vac ports in intake except the 2 to the disto, 1 to carb and 1 to brake booster. and remove and cap off anything that uses vac on the carb.
My issue is my idle is stuck at 3gs, and it wont come down. I backed the idle screw down, in fact I took it right out. No change at all. I cant figure out what it could be other than something inside the carb. The throttle cable isnt binding. the throttle mech on the carb isnt getting bound up or anything.I just cant figure it out

[import racer]

Maybe It's your fast idle cam,or something was put to tight.

[Dopecustomz]

I dont know what it was called but I figured it out. The little tab (has a stair shape with 3 tiers) that drops down from the choke to the linkage was down. Since I didnt remove the choke assembly from the carb, i didnt realize it was still interfering with the linkage. a pair of needle noses took care of that

[import racer]

Glad you got it fixed.

[parkersnine]

Was wondering how it runs with the stage 4 ? Does it idle cold ok? Does it affect your gas mileage? Once we get other issues resolved it nay be an option on my son's 88 dx.

[Dopecustomz]

well I honestly dont know yet. I havent gotten an answer to where the idle air screw is on the carb, so I cant really fine tune it.
Today I fired it up and she ran good, other than the white smoke ripping out of the tailpipe and under the hood. Its either running extremely rich or my head gasket is blown, Im leaning more towards the head gasket.

If anyone with some knowledge happens to read this, I am searching for how to tune the carb and how to plug the exhaust ports on the manifold that I dont need with the vac removal

[Buzo]

Was wondering how it runs with the stage 4 ? Does it idle cold ok? Does it affect your gas mileage? Once we get other issues resolved it nay be an option on my son's 88 dx.

I ran my car a couple of months with the stage 4 vac removal. If you leave the choke, the car will fire up OK. The car will run OK, powerful. But your gas mileage will drop like if it was a 6 cylinders engine.

If you adjust the Idle speed when warm, lets say 1000 RPM, it will be at 2000 RPM when hot (Hot is after a 1hr city drive through stoplights or so)

But the problems you may have with the stock configuration will go away, just new issues will came up which sometimes are easier to deal with.

[Buzo]

well I honestly dont know yet. I havent gotten an answer to where the idle air screw is on the carb, so I cant really fine tune it.
Today I fired it up and she ran good, other than the white smoke ripping out of the tailpipe and under the hood. Its either running extremely rich or my head gasket is blown, Im leaning more towards the head gasket.

If anyone with some knowledge happens to read this, I am searching for how to tune the carb and how to plug the exhaust ports on the manifold that I dont need with the vac removal

The idle air screw is in the base of the carb, in the back side. But it is covered with one bracket so you need to remove the carb from the engine, remove such bracket (it has one screw underneath the carb) then remove one metal cap in the hole to finally get access to the idle air screw.

I didn't remove any valve (EGR, Exhaust recirculation, etc) from the top of the engine, if they don't get vacuum, they will remain closed plugging the exhaust ports since they are normally closed.

[Buzo]

I would like to clarify that I never tried to tune my carb after I removed all the hoses. I just connected everything per the schematics for vacuum removal and used my car from there, I never tried to fine tune, so maybe that step was missing in my personal experience so I sounded like vacuum removal is not a good idea. It is if one don't put any extra effort besides disconnecting the hoses and valves. Good luck.