Hi and Hello everyone.
I have few question..
1. has anyone swap an engine from stock 1 gen accord to a b18c engine?
2. does first gen accord front cross-member the same with 1st gen prelude?
3. does anyone know where to get/make performance/aftermarket suspension for 1st gen accord?
i hope anyone can answer these question because i want to make some modification to my 1st gen accord.
Lol. Click that search button, and maybe browse some FAQs...
I have try finding it form GOOGLE, and like you said use the forum search but i didn't found any of them that link to my question. Right now i'm stuck with my suspension system and what's more my front cross member suck ,and worse my steering wobble to the right when ever i try to rev it hard.
why not buy another car with that money? save yourself the trouble in putting one in a 1st gen.
Well for starters, I can only understand about a 5th of whatever you are trying to say... What country are you from?Originally Posted by Freak
Erm...actually it have a sentimental value for me
and money it's not an issue for me
@itzdave
I'm from Malaysia
well in that case...i don't think make B series mounts for this car.
here the picture of my conversion/mod
[IMG][/IMG]
and here the car it self
[IMG][/IMG]
I don't get it, you already have the engine swapped into the car, what exactly is the problem now? You have the front crossmember problem sorted with your custom crossmember.
What kind of axles do you use? Or rather, how exactly are they made? I'm betting that its torque steer is what you're having now since you're using the short/long axles mated to the B series inner axle.
Suspension wise, custom made is all you need to do. I'm working on a full bodied coilover setup right now (just waiting for the funds) and I'll keep you guys updated.
Where are you from exactly? I swear I saw a 1st gen exactly like that locally in my area once (Taiping, Perak)
wow that looks rather dangerous right there...
This will be great once the bugs are worked out though. Your suspsension will need some major work to make the car safe.
Like you see the car has been swap from the stock motor to the current motor now.The motor didn't have any problem(beside minor leaking from the vtec actuator).
The problem now are my steering every time when i get to a straight high way my steering feel like you are controlling a snake and i can't maintain the car over 120km or the car it's self sway so much like it want to make a drift at a straight line.
I was thinking that the fault maybe from my crappy front cross member
see my front cross member picture
upper view
lower view
and maybe the lower arm?
the stock lower arm and cross member setup look like this
and mine are the mod one look like this
it's from civic but i didn't remember which civic
for the axle that a secret my friend i have spend a lot experimenting on it
for the suspension i really need some one that can tell me where can i get an aftermarket or mod one as you know the stock suspension are very soft. every time i hit a speed bump at 20 or 30 km the car slam to the ground as if my shock absorber are dead but it's not.
right now i live at lumut,perak i often go to taiping to get some parts from the local part dealer. i saw your car few time at tesco taiping ,a parking lot(i don't remember where) and last at a place call kg.asam kumbang.
there are still lot to do to this car like air con wiring,radio,interior light,power steering,dashboard instrument(some work and some don't) and maybe after all this problem solve i will get the car to a body shop for paint and body straightening
Last edited by Freak; 11-09-2011 at 05:03 PM.
Your current lower control arms are the ONLY things holding the tracking direction of the wheels and castor. That one was not meant to hold two axles spinning over 150 ft lbs of torque zomg !
You need some kind of radial lateral support like a radius arm set up so YES your front crossmember as it is will not suffice since all it is holding is the sway bar which is for the body not much good for maintaining castor.
It may even be less complicated to fabricate a true A arm lower control arm set up borrowed from a later model car other than a Honda. Maybe something simialr to a VW golf. CA that has two mounting points plus a ball joint. The beefier A arm would assist with the radial lateral support.
You could modify either your front or rear crossmember to as mounting point for the second sleeve or ball type anchor.
You likely will need a stronger spring as well.
Last edited by 2oodoor; 11-09-2011 at 07:54 AM.
YES! I've seen this car in person ha! Feel free to drop by if you need anything done, wiring mostly as I'm pretty good with them :p
And yes, like roodoo said, you're missing the radius rod, part #11 from the first diagram. What are your control arms came from anyway? Looks like something out of a 2g civic or something? You really should keep the 1g control arms with the original radius rods/sway bars and modify your current crossmember to fit. I don't know why they bother replacing the whole hub/control arms anyway?
That crossmember design is fine, I've seen people using the same design just fine except they obviously kept the radius rods :p
Oh and nice cat
Last edited by Hazwan; 11-09-2011 at 09:05 AM.
I don't see much difference between using the swaybar to locate the control arm and using a radius rod. Is it that much better? They're all rubber bushed anyways... is the swaybar that much more flimsy?
I have no idea. I figured since the civic came with that setup stock, I don't see why it wont work here. maybe its his alignment being out of whack? caster settings to be exact.
bars are made of spring steel I believe? also the mounting of those was never intended to carry any impact force, only side to side movement of the unibody on the lower arms. It is hard enough to keep bushings in front member mounted bars as it is lol
Sure it can "locate" it all day long but compare this to removing the rad rods completley from a 3rd gen, as well as the upper control arms and what the hell the sway bar too.
Think about this, would you ride a bike that had a fork only on one side, that relyed on the rigidity of the axle itself and the attaching force of the one axle nut (even if it were welded!) ? Sure it would locate the rim fine until you put weight on it and try to roll over any surface you would normally roll over.
I don't know that the oem rods on this car would work because of clearance issues.
Congratulation upon getting it that far.
Did you use Civic front knuckles as well?
Using the original Accord front knuckles & radius arms would have been a much better idea.. just swapping the hub within that into the old Accord knuckle for your 4x100 conversion. Guys on the 1st Civic forums also made that mistake fitting 2nd gen Civic knuckles and found it had horrible results ruining the front suspension geometry, offset, scrub radius and bump-steer.
As said the 2nd Civic & 1st Prelude (eliminating that frt crossmember),(& many other cars) used the sway-bar to locate the suspension but poor or worn bushings do not give good results.
Go back to the original suspension if you can. ( Even lengthening the lower 'A' arm if you need to, to accomodate the driveshaft length.)
A certain amount of torque steer is still inevitable though since it was always present in the car and would be highly sensitive to any changes in the front geometry, even different offset of the wheels. Equal length drive shafts & power steering might alleviate that slightly.
Last edited by 79cord; 11-10-2011 at 12:51 AM.
Did you find the new drivetrain much heavier than the old?
I'd always assumed that it would be lighter that the cast iron Accord engine but obviously heavier would make it more likely to use up its suspension travel & require stiffer springs & matching shock absorbers.
the front knuckles are not from a civic it stock 1st gen but the hub is different,it's from an accord(not the first gen that have been banned me from using much bigger wheel then the stock one). I have gone to hell to find the right universal-hub so that i can fit my 15/60/195 rim/tire and much more bigger wheel if i want too. although the shock and the spring are still stock.
i guess i will try using my old radius arm/ sway bar and i have a good idea how to put back the old one
by the way the drive shaft had been made from scratch and stronger and heavy too. the old one doesn't fit quite right and have snap on me(I've cut 2 drive-shaft and the weld them together )
here a view from the driver seat.
i know there are a lot of work need to be done to the interior
but she run like hell
Last edited by Freak; 11-10-2011 at 05:19 AM.
The combined radius arm and anti-sway bar would work ok for a lighter vehicle, or if the joints were good and solid (not literally, but figuratively). It's possible that it's simply overloaded. Going back to the stock lower arm + radius rod should fix the problem, assuming there isn't something else wrong like the wheel alignment.
And BTW, there IS a bike that uses a one sided fork:
This is not a photoshop job either. It's real. Cannondale started doing this back in the late 1990's.
http://www.cannondale.com/2012/bikes...ension/scalpel
C|
very good! I knew somebody would spoil the analogy lol...
Even the stock 1g Accord spindle and suspension set up is not designed to handle the power and distribution of power of that engine.
My opinoin is to look for ideas from some tiny car set ups with limited sub frame space that are designed for 120+hp.
VW and GM are a few that come to mind first
Freak I love your project and I hope it works out cuz that is a lil sleeping giant.
the first reason that i want to make the swap is because i'm sick of some people saying "WTF! is that your ride? can your ride beat my ride?" and one of my closes friend end up say to me like this "if your ride beat mine,i give you my evo3,but if you lose your ride will be in the crusher(junk yard)" it's hurt my heart and my pride as a classic car lover.
so i end up ordering a16a half-cut and td05 turbo kit. the turbo kit arrive like i've order it, but the engine are not a16a instead they send me a B18C-GSR.
before I've made the swap i didn't know that B-series engine was one of powerful engine by honda
here the pic of the original half-cut
Last edited by Freak; 11-11-2011 at 08:39 AM.
Let me know if you need any help with the interior
Unless it was a late '81 change that doesn't look like a 1st gen Accord front knuckle/hub carrier to me. Even the knuckle I removed from an '81 Accord still has a retaining nut on the end of the lower ball-joint instead of the bottom of the knuckle clamping around it like that one does, with the bolt through the bottom of the knuckle.
Could that be a 2nd gen Accord knuckle which might pose similar geometry problems?
2nd gen Accord hubs & wheel bearings will still fit in the older Accord knuckle/hub carrier.
Last edited by 79cord; 11-10-2011 at 08:32 PM.
I believe it could be a 2nd gen Accord knuckle since he said its not from a Civic and from an Accord. My 81 have the same knuckle as the early 1st gen too.
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