Ok so i pretty much have everything off to remove the head but it doesn't seem to want to lift off??? I still have the intake connected. I'm 99 percent sure i have all the vacuum lines disconnected and the head is broke free because i can rock it. But when i try to actually lift it off it seems like something is hanging up? Any suggestions on what i should be checking for?
did you unbolt the brackets underneath that go from the intake manifold to the block?
Sure didn't. How many are there?Originally Posted by A18A
2
Learn from the mistakes of others. You'll not live long enough to make them all yourself.
Are they accessed from the topside or underside of the engine bay?
ive done them both ways, there are two brackets that have on the block and two under the intake.
to remove you can just take off either the block ones or the intake ones
I removed the two bolts (one /bracket) from the intake manifold lying on my back from the bottom, obviously the choice is ultimately yours.
Learn from the mistakes of others. You'll not live long enough to make them all yourself.
i took mine off todaygonna send it in to get rebuild
Finally got it off. Just curious but what kind of money would i be looking at to have it checked for cracks and resurfaced if need be?
The machine shop should be able to give you a quote for their services. We had my son's accord head done last year. Hard to recall exact price. Maybe in the $300 range . The valves need to be removed (the shop did this)and the seats should be resurfaced . You might need valves, guides and springs too . I got my head back loaded with a complete valve job. Make sure you put a quality head gasket on your engine . I am sure plenty if opinions here on the best brand . The job is too labor intensive not to make sure it's not done right. Good luck.
So its probably better to just buy a new oem head off ebay?
I do not think you will get a head(either a remanufactured one or oem) for the price of rebuilding a good core. I think that the better option is to call the shop or go by and get a clear idea of the minimum and maximum cost. If you have a rebuildable head than that should be significantly less expensive.
I got a replacement head for $430 + tax last year. Local machine shop procured it for me. My old head was cracked 5" through one of the cam journal. All totalled my head replacement job was $650. This includes the pressure test and failure of the old head, replacement head, swap cam and valves to replacement head and head gasket.
The head gasket was included in the Top Line gasket kit I bought. I also replaced all the seals and gaskets on the head, intake (carb base) and exhaust manifold. My labour was free. I've been coolant leak free for almost a year.
I should have done my oil pump seals while the head and timing belt were off. I chose to put it off. It was such a small leak at the time. Six months later guess what I was doing.
Learn from the mistakes of others. You'll not live long enough to make them all yourself.
Ok i haven't been on in awhile but it's getting nice out so i was gonna start working on the car and was cleaning the head to take it and have it decked and upon doing so i noticed there is a def crack between the valves on the cylinder closest to the timing belt side. Is something like this repairable or am i going to have to find another head... Thanks again for all the help you guys have been on here. It has been greatly appreciated.
I see these on ebay. Would this be a better way to go?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1986-1989-HO...#ht_500wt_1127
The crack in yours is theoretically repairable but not worth the cost. These heads are not rare enough to warrant welding up the crack and having the valve seat replaced. You could have a used (crack free) head rebuilt for less than what it would cost to have the crack repaired. It would probably cost $200-$300 to have a used (junkyard) head rebuilt including the cost of the head. $300 not a bad deal for a real OEM head so it's worth considering.
C|
thats cheap for a Brand new head. it will last forever
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
After looking at the head is that even the correct head for the car? The listing says 1.8 and i thought the Accords are 2.0? Also how do you know if those are for a carbed car or an fi car?
i'd say that it an efi head judging by the injector reliefs in the inlet ports.
dunno if the carb manifold would bolt on, one of the a series gurus should chime in here.
as far as i know, the a18 and a20 are the same block but with a diff stroke so that head should bolt on. and at 300 buck for a new genuine honda head, its a bit of a no brainer really if the carb manifolds bolt on and it is the same block
The part number for that head is listed for '86-'87 carb models, but it will fit any '86-'89 Accord. The only 1.8L it would fit is the A18 in '86-'87 Preludes, but that's only the block. The 1.8L 'ludes use a totally different intake manifold.
To use a carb head on an FI motor you'll need to swap the #5 cam cap from the old head, since it has the FI type distributor mounting. Not a big deal though.
C|
So then that head that is listed will work on an 89 carbed DX?
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