EGR Problems

[import racer]

I got a code 12 yesterday so i took off the egr and cleaned it,put it back on and still get a code.Took one off my spare motor and still get a code 12 and it runs rough at stop lights.What else would cause this.My egr is not hooked to vacuum and black box is gone,just using map sensor and another one.Could pinching off the tube from exhaust help?

[Rendon LX-i]

Even thou the EGR is unhooked it can be stuck open Enought for Exhuast to pass threw giving you a rought idle. Pitching off the Tube will determin if if thats the case. If you have a vaccum gauge you should see the vacuum go right up if you pitch it. If your still getting code 12 its cause sensor on the Egr is bad. If the egr system is not working correctly on are accords no matter what youll have a EGR code. i could not get rid of it when i deleted the egr. If you have it working and all of a sudden having a code. Much so it is the unit it self or the sensor. Also check resistance on the wires to the pcm. that can also cause a code.

[import racer]

Should I check for resistance at the egr plug,The egr off my other motor never threw a code when i drove it so how can it be bad to. I don't have a vacuum guage but could get one to use.

[import racer]

Hey Rendon could I put a plate under the egr valve would that work.

[Rendon LX-i]

Yup thats what I would do

[import racer]

Well I put a block off plate under egr valve and pinched off the tube,changed the oil too today man was it nasty looking.Didn't get chance to run it,but the last time I ran it I noticed an issue with gas getting to the injectors,It seems like it wasn't getting gas while driving along and have to pump it to keep going.The car hasn't been on the road in three years so I got to work the bugs out.Maybe the sock filter on the fuel pump needs to be changed,how do you change that anyway.

[Dr_Snooz]

It's probably varnish in the fuel delivery system. Start with a bottle of injector cleaner and see what happens.

[ecogabriel]

I got a code 12 yesterday so i took off the egr and cleaned it,put it back on and still get a code.Took one off my spare motor and still get a code 12 and it runs rough at stop lights.What else would cause this.My egr is not hooked to vacuum and black box is gone,just using map sensor and another one.Could pinching off the tube from exhaust help?

Sounds like a piece of carbon is keeping the EGR valve from closing. The ECU would identify that the valve is not in the expected position (it reads the sensor attached to the top of the EGR valve) and trigger code 12.

If you have a multimeter and a vaccum pump with gauge, you can check whether the EGR sensor works by checking its continuity. Change to the ohms scale in the multimeter (in the Kohms range), place one tester probe on the CENTER pin of the EGR wire connector, and the other probe on one of the side pins.
Apply vaccuum VERY slowly (about 5inHG opens the valve completely so go slow) and see how the resistance changes. One side increases resistance with vacuum increases or decreases depending with side pin you choose.
If you see any discontinuity l - from reading to no reading (my tester reads one when there is an open circuit) or there is no reading with changes in vacuum, the EGR valve is defective.

[import racer]

If I get an egr that is in good shape will my engine light go out with the egr blocked off and the tube pinched.If not I might as well leave it the wa it is as long as it runs ok.

[import racer]

Idle still drops and running rough,Any ideas?

[pickupman6]

I just did the black box delete too and its still giving me a code 12 too which I expected. I've had it since I got the car and I've replaced the egr, solenoid and cvc. I finally just got tired of the crap so I ripped it all out except the map and icm. I don't know about the 89s but on my 87 I have 3 vacuum ports on my tb. The center one only has vacuum on it when you give it gas. I hooked that to my egr and so far that's been how my car runs the best. Still gettin a cel tho but its running better than ever. Of course that doesn't help you though cuz u blocked off the egr and crimped the pipe so I'm guessing your problem lies somewhere else. Did you plug your map sensor into the tb or intake mine ran like crap plugged into right side (front side) of the tb also yours being an 89 has secondaries in the intake that are no longer being controlled like the should, that probably isn't the problem either but u could try closing them back to see if it makes any difference. And finally the icm which color module dide u use and what wires and is it hooked to the outside (farthest from motor) vacuum port or the closest one. It should be the closest one, don't remember what wire tho I know blk/ylw but don't remember if I hooked mine to the red or the other color. One of my modules might be bad or mabe its supposed to do it but one clicks repeatedly once it engages clicking on and off, so I used the other one. If you do figure out how to get rid of your code 12 be sure and let me know, I've tried everything they said in that other post and nothing worked. I think I'm gong to check the lift sensor to see if its reading right. Does any one know how to test it. I was thinking of hooking up an analog multimeter and seing if it sweeps smoothly when I apply vacuum to it.

[Rendon LX-i]

Adjust your valves.

[import racer]

What do you mean one closest to and farthest from what?

[pickupman6]

Sorry I meant distributor not head. The vac port closest to the dizzy should go to the intake the other one to the icm

[import racer]

A picture would be helpful to explain what you're saying.

[pickupman6]

No I can't

[ecogabriel]

I hope the following diagrams help. First, a schematic of the vacuum for the EGR valve itself



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Second, a complete vacuum schematics. Notice where #24 hose is attached to the intake manifold. It takes engine vacuum to the cvc which in turn operates the EGR valve when the ECU triggers the solenoid.



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Both schemes come with 86-87 Accords.

88-89 are slightly different; there is no hose #17 bringing fresh air to the EGR valve when the solenoid is off, and the solenoid itself is different. other things are the same

[pickupman6]

Thanks ecogabriel, but he doesn't even have a black box.
First off import racer it doesn't matter if the valve is good or not if you don't have it hooked to vacuum. The computer tells the valve what to do then it gets a reading from the sensor on top of the egr. If the egr valve isn't where its expected to be you get a code. What we need to do is figure out why your car runs so poorly. Take a picture of your set up or tell us how you have it hooked up. Including what wires are hooked up to your icm and map sensor and also how you got your vacuum lines run, including where they are hooked to the intake. Is code 12 your only code and do you have any other mods. I don't care what other people say the code 12 is not your problem if you have the egr blocked off. We can figure this out.

[import racer]

Well it's hooked up the way the diagram on here shows,and the map is hooked to the throttle body on to the port on the right side.The wires going to them are the way they were before when in the black box.Tonight I got a code 6 so I changed it with another one I had and I still a code 6.I took the fuse out for the ecu to reset the computer too,I slso checked the wire for power with a test light and it's getting power with the key on.Is there anything else that could give me a code 6.

[pickupman6]

I figured u had a code 6 which is the ect/tw. Which one did you change, the green one or the tan one. All the green one does is control the fan. You need to change the tan one.

[import racer]

Update,tried another temp sensor and the cel went out,I don't have a green one just white.Mine only has one, Canadian model is different I guess.I didn't take it out for a drive,I'll do that tomorrow.I also noticed my dash light for the tail lights is on again,it was off for awhile but it's back on again.I changed the modual on the tail lights two months ago and it was good,now it's on again .not sure what causes this.Have to check them out tomorrow.

[pickupman6]

Ok I didn't know that, let us know if that fixed it for you. And maybe your lucky and it actually just a blown bulb this time.

[import racer]

Well I'm getting pissed off at this ,IT STILL IDLES ROUGH BELOW 500 RPM,IT DOESN'T" HAVE ANY PICKUP TIL IT HITS HIGH GEAR AND EVERY TIME I TAKE A SHARP TURN IT STARVES FOR FUEL.SOMEBODY PLEASE HELLLLLLP!

[import racer]

Should the map sensor go to the tb or manifold,I'm gonna try it on the manifold tomorrow and see if it's better.I thought FI was supposed to be better than carbed,All I'm having is headaches with mine.

[vteckiller]

Even thou the EGR is unhooked it can be stuck open Enought for Exhuast to pass threw giving you a rought idle. Pitching off the Tube will determin if if thats the case. If you have a vaccum gauge you should see the vacuum go right up if you pitch it. If your still getting code 12 its cause sensor on the Egr is bad. If the egr system is not working correctly on are accords no matter what youll have a EGR code. i could not get rid of it when i deleted the egr. If you have it working and all of a sudden having a code. Much so it is the unit it self or the sensor. Also check resistance on the wires to the pcm. that can also cause a code.

So you have an A20A3 Engine? or obviously not.. and it won't be fatal to a car's internal parts removing the EGR correct?