86 lxi IDLE problems

[sedanman]

yes, i know this topic has been beaten to death over and over . when idling, hot or cold, it jumps between 1200-2100rpms...but i have checked the IACV(?) by taking the top off and covering the center hole with my finger, no difference. the weird thing is, it only started after the other night when i raced an 01 civic... like a week ago i added some coolant to the overflow tank and some to the rad. because it was a tad low. what bleeder nut? the one that sits just on top of and a little to the right of the thermostat housing? When do i bleed it? when it's running? or when the car is off>? i need some help. also read the thread below mine and saw to check line 21 for leaks so i'll do that tomorrow... any help is awesome and the less noob flaming the better.

-Nick

[alberto]

Man I know your pain, I youst change the coolant and now I can't keep the idle frome yumping, it's pissing me off.

[1987AccordLx-i]

yes, i know this topic has been beaten to death over and over . when idling, hot or cold, it jumps between 1200-2100rpms...but i have checked the IACV(?) by taking the top off and covering the center hole with my finger, no difference. the weird thing is, it only started after the other night when i raced an 01 civic... like a week ago i added some coolant to the overflow tank and some to the rad. because it was a tad low. what bleeder nut? the one that sits just on top of and a little to the right of the thermostat housing? When do i bleed it? when it's running? or when the car is off>? i need some help. also read the thread below mine and saw to check line 21 for leaks so i'll do that tomorrow... any help is awesome and the less noob flaming the better.

-Nick

open the bleeder nut CAREFULLY when the car is hot.. it should be a 10mm once you got all the air out it should solve the surging idle problem.. let me know if it works

[Rendon LX-i]

Man I know your pain, I youst change the coolant and now I can't keep the idle frome yumping, it's pissing me off.

Say what? LOL... if tis jumping that high man, its either a vac leak or a coolant issue...try bleeding it then turn down your Idle control valve...

[sedanman]

ok, well before i read the post on here i tried the "spray the brake cleaner stuff on the vac. lines and hope for the best" trick but no dice. so i for the most part ruled out a vac. leak causing the issue.. i'll do the "bleed the air outta the system" trick after a short drive.. do i open it when the car is running or off when it's still hot? and how do i "adjust" my IACV? huh? so lost. but i'm trying.


Seperate note:just got my "solid/filled" mount in tonight... not sure of the word... i want to say torque dampener but i know that's wrong. the rod thing that's attached between the firewall and a bracket on the back of the block. it kinda smoothed things out when the rpm's dip low.there isn't so much a violent shake anymore, more of a vibration, like the energy suspension motor mounts feel, only "softer"

-Nick

[1987AccordLx-i]

ok, well before i read the post on here i tried the "spray the brake cleaner stuff on the vac. lines and hope for the best" trick but no dice. so i for the most part ruled out a vac. leak causing the issue.. i'll do the "bleed the air outta the system" trick after a short drive.. do i open it when the car is running or off when it's still hot? and how do i "adjust" my IACV? huh? so lost. but i'm trying.


Seperate note:just got my "solid/filled" mount in tonight... not sure of the word... i want to say torque dampener but i know that's wrong. the rod thing that's attached between the firewall and a bracket on the back of the block. it kinda smoothed things out when the rpm's dip low.there isn't so much a violent shake anymore, more of a vibration, like the energy suspension motor mounts feel, only "softer"

-Nick

i usually checked the bleeder with the car running but BE CAREFUL because it will spray out alot once the airs out..

and the torque damper is known as the "dogbone mount" but it really does help alot haha

[w261w261]

When you're bleeding the system, you don't have to open up that little bleed bolt very much, just so it starts to spit and blow bubbles. Then eventually it will start more of a steady stream. Keep it mostly closed so the stream is small, and leave it that way for a bit....there will usually be more spitting on and off. After nothing happens (meaning no more air coming out) for awhile, you're good to go. Then check and adjust the level in the overflow bottle (I use Peak anti-freeze instead of Prestone, because Peak is dark green and easier to see in the bottle). If the bottle is so dirty that you can't see the coolant level, it can be cleaned by removing the battery and the battery shelf to get to it. Use a cleaning solution that gets rid of rust (usually has phosphoric acid in it) like "The Must for Rust," "milkstone remover" or tile cleaner. If you use distilled water in the system, the rust will come back much later. As a workaround for a dirty bottle, you can take off the bottle's cap (not the filler cap), and use a dipstick.

A symptom of low coolant in FI cars is a surging idle. I think this is caused by a "hot spot" which develops when an air bubble goes through the idle stabilizer valve, but I might be wrong.

[sedanman]

figured it out. i'll type more later when i'm not on my phone. it was a screw. one screw.... be back later...

[pickupman6]

Grrr why don't people ever post what fixes the problem.
Sorry for bringing back a dead thread but I've had the same problem with my car, turned out to be the fast idle valve next to the tb was out of adjustment. I tightened it down now it idles at 1400 instead of 2100 when cold no more bouncing up and down and a nice steady 800 once its warmed up. Sorry again.