Im not even worried too much bout it seeing how I im swapping to a new motor in a few weeks man. As long as it doesn't fall out im good.
Im not even worried too much bout it seeing how I im swapping to a new motor in a few weeks man. As long as it doesn't fall out im good.
Originally Posted by CAH
Didnt i say screw in your fast idle valve SMH. lol
on that that. that manifold looks beasty
200+ ALL MOTOR LS VTEC
WINRAR PROGRESS!!! DROP IN MOTOR NAO! and while your at it put some game in to it!
1988 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe 123k miles.
I dunno, I think the clear cap is pretty cool! I want one!
Josh u never said that! Lol
And CAH fuck. I hope ur house gets tagged by the game
. But I do plan on dropping the motor in before 2014. Trust!
It was 35 bucks man. Autozone and ebay had it cheaper but I didnt wanna wait lol. my sister's civic had one and ilike it. Its pretty cool to see the spark imo.
More shiney parts!
First off excuse the dirty ass table lol.
But I picked up a chatch can and hardware. No lines yet but its all gonna be -10an. I did a quick test fit and the plug should work. I gotta put some oil on the orings but it should slide right in there fine. Ill get a pic tomorrow for yall. I think this is a great find for a catch can set up.. Im getting more excited to swap and boost now.
Edit: oh I also got magnetic tranny plug too just because.
Last edited by Tdurr; 12-05-2013 at 09:12 PM.
So much game in this thread
But (Y) pretty shiny parts!
haz ima kill you ^
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1988 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe 123k miles.
I Did this today.
& I just realized how rusty that block is...
dude ill buy you and damn can of engine paint hahaha, everything looks so damn nice but the block lmao
^^ I just am too lazy to do any masking and wirewheeling the block. I don't care bout this one haha.
Nice find on that catch can plug. I may have to order one of those before I put my motor in the car.
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also been debating on this, See the rust on the oil pan at the bottom front??
so im not sure how I feel bout welding the oil return here. Its not weak but just ugly and Im not feeling going to the jy and pulling and oil pan... its too involved imo haha. im lazy now
yea it was a gamble. It doesn't sit 100% flush. Ill get another pic tues to explain it but its about 3mm long. the 2nd o-ring sits about 2mm from the edge of the block but im not too worried. I'll be getting the oil return line from the back of the oil pan removed and welded flush tho.
Last edited by Tdurr; 12-08-2013 at 02:47 PM.
Wire wheel and repaint the pan? Looks like surface rust to me. Easier than going to the yard to pull one thats for sure
its pretty gross. kinda pitted. Ill get better pics tues on everything. I might pull it then and swing by a shop to see if they are down with cutting and welding crap up on wed.
take it off and weld it. you already there much easier. just tack weld it slowly around around that stuff is thin lol. looking good tim
200+ ALL MOTOR LS VTEC
so this is just a few pics to show the rust on the oil pan. its pretty extreme if you ask me but ill see what a pro welder can work with. I Plan on swapping the motor this weekend(sun-monday) and get her running on obd1. Hopefully it will happen smoothly. I got a few parts left to pick up but nothing hard to get. -10 line for catch can, coolant hoses, and some other random crap. i think imma have to not do -10 on the oil feed. with both fittings i have there, I have like 1 inch of space for hose haha. its gonna be interesting to figure that one out.
and here is a random pic again of the motor
Pulled the oil pan. Ill be taking it to get welded up later today.
Have that pan bead blasted and then see how it looks. It's hard to tell how bad the pitting is with all the rust and paint. From the picture it doesn't look too bad; I've seen much worse. Looks like there are plenty of clean spots to put a bung.
C|
For $60, just toss a new pan on there. Time involved in prep/weld/paint is just not worth it, and in the end you still have an old oilpan with bung threads that are on borrowed time. Now is the easiest time to slap one on there.
Welp too late lol. Ill be painting it later. I didn't wat to have the pan off for too long seeing how its under a cover on my porch, not in a garage.
Your oil return is pretty low. It looks like it will be under the oil level in the pan. Could it have been placed higher on the pan?
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Edit.
Found this video it shows some basic rules for the oil return.
Turbo Oil Return Line HELP - YouTube
Last edited by EricW; 12-20-2013 at 10:22 AM.
Yeah Tim, I don't think your turbo will drain with the return there.
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It should still drain ok as long as the hose is large enough. There will be oil in the hose all the time and the level will maintain itself at the same level as the oil in the pan. If you ever try to disconnect the return at the pan without draining the pan first you will lose some oil.
C|
I was about to say the same. oil is always getting sucked in and dripped down should be ok but having it a bit higher would of been nice.
200+ ALL MOTOR LS VTEC
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